kerleybird Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Bare with me... I dunno if my photo bucket link worked haha Anyways.. Hello! Read through this forum for like the past 6 years and I just gotta say thank you to all the people before me! So helpful! Anyways trying to post pics of my 510 and probably my 620... Really just want to be more involved in the ratsun community! Soo.... If my pic worked... That's my datsun 510. I've only owned this one for all of like 6 months. But the timing was right and a 68' was what I was after. The owner before me though was well... Gifted in making things "work" needless to say how Jimmy rigged it may have been, but! Nevertheless I love this little car and hopefully you will be seeing more of it soon! Just a few alot of my pics didn't transfer with my new phone. Luckily I can always take more haha Hope this workz! Kerleybird out 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Welcome to Ratsun Kerleybird. Ballsy owning a rare had to find those one year parts, '68. Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Welcome and I like your 4 door nice. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Sweet patina. I can see the Weber carb, she stock otherwise? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 It's a 68.. I already love it! Welcome! Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Thanks for the love guys! Lockleaf---i replaced the lower control arm bushings with energy suspensions polyurethane ones... Little customizing needed which I found here on ratsun haha Also it's got an L18 with a REAALLLY hackjob 3 speed auto. But I have other plans for that.. Lol I actually have another complete L18 and two 5 speed dogleg transmissions so when I finish cleaning out my fuel tank ..again... Haha it will be on the list for soon! Mike--i agree a bit ballsy. But I daily drive my 620 so I get to spend time cleaning up the 510. The PO actually cut my fenders for 70 marker lights.. Total bummer. There was ALOT OF hackjob wiring done.. At one point someone cut the rear for marker lights.. Also something I will address.. But for the most part everything 68' specific is there.. I even have the rear bumper, needs work but worth saving. The dash is pretty beat and so is the bench seat but again all stuff worth saving. Thanks again for the love guys! Everyone here has definitely helped me out alot through the work that you've put in. So thank you! Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 This is the latest pic of my 510 a good friend of mine works for a local shop so every now and again I get to bring my car in to work on it. I've had issues with it since I bought it , like having the condenser go out because the PO only replaced the point..but needless to say I fixed that with an electric dizzy I had haha. Now I'm having an issue where when it shifts to 3rd gear it starts chugging and losing power like bad. Like had to push it off the highway and practically idle it to my work bad. So I pulled the fuel tank cleaned it out all though it looked reeeaally clean, replaced the fuel lines (soft lines not hard lines yet) made a new filler neck do the the fact mine looked like this... Now looks like this... Sooooo... Was still having the issue brought it down to my buddy's work checked it with his timing light it's dead nuts so that's good. But then while idling it just sounded terrible.. So I checked the fuel filter and... Well pictures are worth 1000 words.. Yeah. Nasty in the bottom of that thing. Hooked it up to the motovac at my buddies work and it ran smoooooooth. So fuel issues for sure. Then again I think it may have something to do with the secondary on my weber like maybe it's possibly stuck partially open? I rebuilt the one on my truck a couple times but I haven't fiddled with this one yet. That or since I don't have a choke set up on it yet if it's something to do with that. Just more checking and going through to do. I have a set of dual SU's But I would like to figure out the fuel issues before diving into a dual carb set up haha. Needless to say I have alot of work to do but I'm not in anyway discouraged about it. I love working on datsuns! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Dirty filter won't affect idle. It will affect how fast the carb can be refilled so when floored going up a hill when it uses gas faster than it can be replaced it will baff. This could also be the float set too high. For idle you need maximum intake vacuum so be sure the gaskets and adapter are sealed and tight. Another thing is the valve lash set. A tight intake or exhaust won't close tightly and may leak. Check all vacuum fittings or hoses related to the intake and carb. Now set the idle mixture... http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm Trouble shooting... http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Mike I've read your stuff for years, you are the man! Today's my only day off so I'm going to try and run through a few things with my car. Thank you for the links and the info! Quote Link to comment
Cheetahking Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Cool car! My 1971 had all kinds of issues (mostly flooding because the needle valve wouldn't close) due particle like what you have there. I ended up replacing the line, and had the tank dipped. That's what ultimately did it….. Vacuum leaks can really mess things up for sure (make sure your manifold bolts/nuts are tight). Not to question your friend - but what idle timing did he set it at (can have a big impact on idle speed/quality and hiccups off idle). You should be somewhere 34-36 degrees all in. Its hard to know the timing curve of the distributor you installed without backing it out (unless you know the specs). Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Thanks for the reply cheetah! And as far as idle timing goes do you mean how fast the idle is? Like rpm wise? We timed it with a light and by adjusting the distributor. The car drove fine when I first got it. Just the front end needed work, it also was sold to me with a full tank of gas. The first time I had that chugging issue it died on me and wouldn't start. Ended up being the condenser. I changed the distributor to electric and deleted the points. New coil , plugs and deleted the ballast resistor. And I switched the l18 fuel pump for a l20b fuel pump in case it was something within the pump itself. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet since I've done that. But only because I'm able to take a thorough look into it and figure out why I'm getting all the junk in my fuel tank. Whether it be lines or the tank itself. How much was it for you to get your tank dipped? Or was it a diy project? I have another tank I've thought about trying out but that one seems NOWHERE close to as clean as the one I have in it now. Also from what I've read here on ratsun the bigger line off the bottom of the fuel tank should be the return line, and the smaller the feed. In my situation mine was reversed and one line was blocked off. (I'm assuming do to the weber not having a return line?) also something I'm going to switch when I pull the tank again and make sure the hard lines are good-that could also be a part of junk in the trunk haha Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Soooooo.... The 510 vin number works like the production line right? Like #000001 would be the first 510 right? (although I think 1-10 were test models?) just curious if this is how the vin # works Any help is appreciated ! Quote Link to comment
Cheetahking Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Do you know the gas is OK? Lots of variables here…… As far as dipping the tank - it wasn't hard to remove - other than the lines attached to the tank - took it to a place - I don't remember what they charged $40? Painted the exterior and then put it back in. You might start by blowing out the hard lines (compressed air with some type of fluid cleaner….) Ignition timing. set with a light should be around 10 degrees BTDC. Depending on your crank pulley - I think with the earlier ones it has a sinlge pointer and multiple marks on the pulley. The largest mark should be 0, with others at 5 deg. increments… And yes - I think the vin works the way you describe - you post what yours is - as it is a '68. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Don't think the 510 had a return just a feed to the pump. Some later ones had a vent tube for capturing tank fumes as part of a rudimentary emissions system but it is NOT a return. Only the much later '74/'75 L20Bs had the return because they ran so hot and had restart problems. Tell the truth this filter is fine. Just crap that falls in while fueling. Doesn't look like rust. But if only replaced 6 months ago the tank may need cleaning out. If you don't know, replace it and keep an eye on it. That one may be 5 years worth and should have been changed twice in that time. If you clean the tank out, see what you have. Doubt gas is all brown with rust or the filter would be brown but it may have some sediment so you can clean it and just keep changing the filters. Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Cheetah-- I've already had the tank out thanks for the pricing estimate too lol Mike-- under the tank itself on the bottom right hand side there is two output (for lack of better words) tubes? They connect to rubber fuel line then to the hard line and both run into the engine bay only one of mine is blocked off with a screw. The other to the fuel filter . as far as having the vent line on top mine does have that But not hooked to anything Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Good looking set of vehicles! Nice score as well with the SU carbies. Strong work by placing the original license plate in the trunk. Keeps the originality with the car. Welcome to the house!! Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Thanks bud! Ratsun got so much helpful info just glad I could be a part of it! Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Nice dime, looks like you're getting things figured out! Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Thanks! And yeah I'm picking at it little by little I'm definitely getting it to canby lol Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Pulled this weber off of the L18 I have down back in the parts collection lol never ran an electric choke before but it might be an option to test with my 510. If nothing else an electric choke might actually be pretty sweet compared to my wired open manual chokes haha We will see Friday! As that's my only day to do anything lol Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 I plan to use a couple of those I pulled off a 240z back in the late 80s or so. I believe it's a 32/36dgv. Besides the linkage all you need is an adaptor for the stock 510 manifold. Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Yeah this one says it's a dgav 32/36 I'll throw up some pics when I make it out to my truck to grab it haha I do have one issue with it though... Gah guess I'll just go grab it. Haha Now here's where my issue lies... The primary is partially open... Here's another pic Still might be hard to see but the only thing I can think of is because it's an electric choke its for high idle then kicks down once it's warmed up? Just a thought Also I noticed this... The head of the idle screw is busted off, which I can replace but the positioning is what gets me.. Its not touching the throttle plate. Now I'm not sure if it's because the screw is backed out a bit? But I know the throttle plate will not move any closer. I'm assuming it has to be because of the 'high idle' screw I'm input is good! Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 If the throttle plate was put in and torqued down without the plate fully closed, they can slip a little bit out of place. This would put pressure or rub on the side of the body and not allow the butterfly to close all the way. You could try to loosen the two Phillips screws a touch and see if she closes all the way. Just be careful and have the right size screwdriver (no strip) and see if it closes. Also, sometimes the rods get dirty and hang up. Quote Link to comment
kerleybird Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Thanks bud! I'll check into it tomorrow since I finally have a day off hahaha for now it's BEER AND CHILL haha Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.