Electrical Connection for Idle Kickdown & Anti-Diesel Solenoid

[IrishGent2015]

Greetings,

I am working on a 1986 720 4x4, I installed a new carb and for the life of me can not find the electrical connection for the (1) Idle kick down solenoid & (2) the Anti-Dieseling solenoid, they go into a single connector, I can not locate where it connects to on the vehicle. 

The old carb had the wires torn out, when I began working on this, so can't backtrack and I do not see the connection anywhere... Could my friend have gotten the incorrect carb?... 

 

There should be one connector, semi-round, but I can not find it anywhere.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[datzenmike]

Does the new carb resemble the old one? and have a single wing nut holding the air filter on? Two wing nuts means it's a EFI throttle body and wouldn't have an idle cut solenoid.

 

There were two types of carburetor on the 720. One later used on the California trucks had a solenoid operated jet with feedback from an O₂ sensor. It has 5 or 6 wires to it in a large round connector to the rear passenger side of the carb. The other was conventional with just a choke heater wire (Blue) and an idle cut solenoid wire. (Red)

 

A picture would help.... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54932-photobucket-ratsun/

[IrishGent2015]

Ok,

it is a two wire with a single connector, single nut up top. I am not 100 percent positive this is the original carb model for this truck,

it had been replaced by someone previously and it came out of a salvage yard, my friend then bought a new one. trucks always been up here in Massachusetts, has over 3 million miles on it so far. just won't quit!

I betting it's the correct unit for the truck, I would need to tap into the harness at some point unless I am missing the connector, I did not see any that would fit and or reach.

if I am thinking correctly, I believe there is a relay involved so I would need to know the color code of the two wires and tap in there?

 

it is the same carb selling on eBay. I don't have the truck here with me to take a pic..  :)

[datzenmike]

If you do NOT have an O₂ sensor in the exhaust manifold then this is the correct carb.

 

As you do have this carb anyway, it's easy enough to wire it up to work properly. You will have an electric choke that needs power at all times the ignition is on and an idle cut solenoid... again powered any time the ignition is on. The choke heater wire and the idle cut wire can simply be jumpered onto the intake side coil + terminal. On, when ever the ignition is.

[IrishGent2015]

Awesome!

 

I am grateful, was not sure if they had a constant signal.  Thanks, I will let you know how I make out.

[datzenmike]

You can look near the rear right (passenger side) inner fender for a Blue (choke heater) and a Blue/White stripe (idle cut) wire that should be in a harness that would have had a plug connected to the carb.

[Charlie69]

Here is a picture of a Weber on a 720 that has the choke and the fuel cut solenoid wired.  Not either of my trucks.

 

[IrishGent2015]

I am happy to report that all is well now with my friends truck. I was able to run a wire to the positive side of the coil and was happy with the results. I then discovered the exhaust coil was not firing, so I ran jumpers from the primary coil to the secondary and that fixed that issue. No stalling, idles is smooth after a little tweaking of the air/fuel mixture. Idles at 1000 rpm

He says it has not run this good in 10 years. Made my day!

 

Thanks for all the help and direction!

 

Irish

:thumbup:

[datzenmike]

Check the first fuse on the far left side, it's blown. This is the fuse that supplies power to the exhaust coil. You are drawing twice the power on the wire for the intake coil, better fix this.