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72 1200 Bucket Build in Texas


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Any pics of the patch panels welded in? 

I'm welding the stuff that's mostly hidden with flux-core, so its not terribly pretty. 

I think this is the only one I have:

A7299198-39BE-4F76-B813-6FA957C78DEE_zps

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If I found one of these that wasn't a complete pile... I'd probably buy it. It'd be hard not to unload my 2dr 510 shell to make room. Love these cars.

 

Yeah, it is hard to find a nice 1200. It's equally hard to find any 1200 in Texas. The irony is that I was looking to buy a 69 Dime from the yard I found this and my Son's 610 in. The 510 was spoken for...the 1200 was literally sitting in a swamp in the back 40 of this guy's land. And it is a complete pile...but becoming less of a pile every day, :rofl:

This is where it sat from Summer 1986 until last month:

EA8052B3-B220-4821-9002-5B760B00C2B7_zps

 

Fun day digging her out:

4671D533-7FDB-4470-B7C9-603E1E45E528_zps

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Another quality solution and cheaper is Zero Rust. 

 

looking good though!

 

Got a good deal on the quart of POR15, but yeah I have heard lots of good stuff about ZeroRust. I'll try it when I move to coating the new floors.

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Got a good deal on the quart of POR15, but yeah I have heard lots of good stuff about ZeroRust. I'll try it when I move to coating the new floors.

Read this a while back

 

www.autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?11872-Zero-Rust-is-nothing-more-than-a-Rustoleum-type-paint

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Read this a while back

 

www.autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?11872-Zero-Rust-is-nothing-more-than-a-Rustoleum-type-paint

 

"There's a reason why Zero Rust sprays on so easy, but will chalk up and has no UV protection." 

 

It's not a top coat that's for sure.

 

 

"After using POR15 for 20 years we came to know the product quite well. It does cling onto rusted surfaces very well and it hardens to a shell-like coating. The problem is that it can chip and moisture gets between the POR and the surface causing problems. Rust Bullet is very similar and neither is anything like Rustoleum and in many ways Rustoleum is better.

I've only used Rustoleum a couple times so I can't comment on how it compares to Zero Rust but I can tell you that the Zero Rust works very well, looks good and doesn't cost a lot. I use ZR in almost all of the 10 colors for cars, farm equipment, bird baths, boat parts etc, etc. It holds up great and when it gets damaged it's easy to repair."

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Read this a while back

 

www.autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?11872-Zero-Rust-is-nothing-more-than-a-Rustoleum-type-paint

 

After reading the article, I did a quick search for ZR - to see where I could get it, just out of curiosity. Not only does Amazon not sell it, but the places I did find it, it was 46 bucks for a quart. I paid 36 for a quart of POR-15 on Amazon Prime. Can't lie - if it's on Prime, I'm more likely to use it. Plus, the POR seems to be cheaper, unless I'm missing a deal somewhere. It's worked for me in the past, so for now...I'll stick with it...Holy Crap, though...it does not come off of skin!

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Thanks! Those patches look similar to the ones done on my Z awhile back. You're right, underneath they don't have to be pretty...just functional. I'm guessing you are using .030"? In my rig I find the .030" flux core burns a bit hot....tends to burn holes in old thin sheetmetal pretty easy, works better on lap joints.

 

Takes patience. Your making good progress!

 

I'm welding the stuff that's mostly hidden with flux-core, so its not terribly pretty.

I think this is the only one I have:

A7299198-39BE-4F76-B813-6FA957C78DEE_zps

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After reading the article, I did a quick search for ZR - to see where I could get it, just out of curiosity. Not only does Amazon not sell it, but the places I did find it, it was 46 bucks for a quart. I paid 36 for a quart of POR-15 on Amazon Prime. Can't lie - if it's on Prime, I'm more likely to use it. Plus, the POR seems to be cheaper, unless I'm missing a deal somewhere. It's worked for me in the past, so for now...I'll stick with it...Holy Crap, though...it does not come off of skin!

 

$36 bux!! That's pretty good. It's seems to be the opposite here. Zero Rust is like $30 and POR is $45+

 

Prime is where it's at!

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Thanks! Those patches look similar to the ones done on my Z awhile back. You're right, underneath they don't have to be pretty...just functional. I'm guessing you are using .030"? In my rig I find the .030" flux core burns a bit hot....tends to burn holes in old thin sheetmetal pretty easy, works better on lap joints.

 

Takes patience. Your making good progress!

 

 

Yup. Using the .030 wire... it so easily pops holes in this attenuated sheet metal. I am constantly filling holes. When the body repairs begin (rockers, tail panel and lower quarters), I'll bite the bullet and get gas. My welder is set up for it, I just taught myself to weld without gas out of pure laziness  :geek:

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But now I am curious. If it sat there since '86, those wheels must have been dang near brand new when they went on...    ^_^

 

The story on the wheels - about 10 years ago, some Cat came sniffing around looking to buy the car, but first wanted to try the wheels from the nearby S12. They "fit" but would not spin due the the bulbous sidewalls. The guy changed his mind. I'm sure glad he did. Plus I got super-retro Sesquicentennial Plates in the deal.  :rofl:

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Now that I know you bought it with those wheels already on it, somehow I like them a lot more...    :rofl:

 

Truth be told - the look of the car with the wheels sold me on it. The fact that it was sunk to the rims in mud made it look all the lower and sparked ideas of what might be.

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Switch to .023 welding wire. It is shocking how much of a difference it makes

 

Thanks for the guidance. I didn't know .023 was available in flux-core...probably because I never looked for it. I'll pick up a spool and give it a whirl.

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It takes less heat to get the wire to melt I think. It doesn't transfer as much in to the sheet. I was blowing holes on a floor pan butt weld at my lowest settings on my mig. I bitched about it to a friend who suggested the .023 to me. After switching, my welds improved 10 fold. I was able to control the weld much better. I am welding at about 25% power instead of 0%, not blowing through, and almost achieving decent looking welds. This took place 3 weeks ago, so I'm still impressed with the change.

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