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72 1200 Bucket Build in Texas


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Hello fellow Datsun nuts,

 

I'm new to the site and thought I'd introduce myself and my project in the same post.

 

My name is Rick. I'm a writer and Gearhead from Dallas, TX. This particular 1200 has been sitting in the same spot, in my cousin's Denton, TX salvage yard, since 1986. After repeated attempts to get him to sell it to me, I was able to liberate it two weekends ago.

Plans are to do the rust repair (tons of it) and install a CA18ET pulled from the same yard. I just ordered the 1200 brake upgrade brackets from Doug (this was my first par- purchase for this project; glad to buy from a Datsun guy...very cool cat). My RockAuto cart is full of the suspension bits and brake parts to make it all work.

As soon as the parts get here, I'll be cutting my struts down with Jetta inserts and flipping sides, possibly flipping the tie rod ends to the top to help correct some of the geometry offset with the 3 inch lowering job... Here's what I have so far.

Got it home:

12801639_1107081726011105_76847348155268

Interior stripped on day 1 Floors and both frame rails need replacing: 

12801259_1107133652672579_45284726625039

Day 2 - got her inside and motor and front suspension bits removed:

12800162_1107592252626719_10348586334860

Measuring for 3 inch blocks with 200SX 15X6 wheels:

12790960_1109421275777150_87302147556105

 

I'm sure I'll be asking a ton of questions on the tech side of the forums. The hunt for quarter panel patches will begin soon. I can build floor pans and frame rails and I know I can order front fenders from OZ, but no clue on the rear quarters...but I'll do some searching before I start asking silly questions.

I am sure glad  this site is here! I'll update this post as often as I make progress.

Thanks for looking

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possibly flipping the tie rod ends to the top to help correct some of the geometry offset with the 3 inch lowering job... 

 

FYI, this is not a good plan. My 1200 is lowered 6" and my tie rods are set up just as Nissan intended. Flipping them would change the angle too drastically relative to the angle of the control arm and introduce all sort of wonkiness to the suspension.  ;)

 

Oh, and super glad to see another 1200 owner here in DFW.   :thumbup:

 

Some light reading:

 

My build thread

Kerry's build thread

Tim's build thread 

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FYI, this is not a good plan. My 1200 is lowered 6" and my tie rods are set up just as Nissan intended. Flipping them would change the angle too drastically relative to the angle of the control arm and introduce all sort of wonkiness to the suspension.  ;)

 

 

Thanks for the heads-up...I'm sure that would have been pretty evident once I put it all together and the tie rods were all bound up :confused:    In the aircooled VW world, it's a must do-thing...glad to know its one less modification I'll need to make!

 

And thanks for the links...This is my first Datsun build so I'm happy to have some reference material.

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Now that the low hanging fruit is out of the way, time for some work:

Today I'm assessing the part I was most concerned about - the frame rails.

IMG_5934_zps9rf9xbko.jpg

Passenger side looks really nice:

IMG_5933_zpsdke1xl7o.jpg

Driver side...Ugh! At some point, the car was involved in a front end collision that resulted in some half-arse body work. Pretty sure this is why The left rail is schnockered:

IMG_5932_zpsyhvl7kbd.jpg

Cut out the ugly and did a bit of straightening - Upper section is solid, lower is...weldable...

IMG_5937_zpsgjs1qzrt.jpg

I'll probably loose the front steering box boss...its crunchy. So, it will need replacing as well. Other side (under the fender) looks about the same, so as soon as I cap and weld the inner, I'll hack out the swiss cheese from the outer section and move on the the rails under the floors....those are not any nicer looking.

 

I'm also working on my front suspension plan of attack today, but I'll drop my questions over in the suspension section and post up when I make progress there. It's here if anyone would like to weigh in on my strut-cutting woes.

 

 

Thanks for taking a look...any advice is welcome. 

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I'm also working on my front suspension plan of attack today, but I'll drop my questions over in the suspension section and post up when I make progress there. It's here if anyone would like to weigh in on my strut-cutting woes.

 

I'd stick to asking your questions in the 1200 section, not the different sub-sections. That's where most of us 1200 guys hang out...   ^_^

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Quick update...probably last for a week or so. I'm on a crazy short deadline and have no business Datsuning right now...but it's a disease...so here we go -

Went to the metal store today to get material for subframe connectors, blocks, rail repair and seat brackets:

 

IMG_5952_zpsqltreqtc.jpg

 

Decided to work for an hour, just so I could concentrate on what I should be doing:

 

IMG_5956_zpsujliajvi.jpg

 

First of two sections of the frame caps to repair the driver side rail. Just a test fit. Still need to grind and get weld-thru primer, drill holes for sway bar mount, fab a spacer for the other side so they are the same, welding, etc.

 

IMG_5960_zps42x0aqzz.jpg

 

Also cut a quick set of blocks for the rear. Still gotta weld in end caps and paint. And need to make some long u-bolts. Feel free to weigh in on preferred short shocks for a 3 inch block. 

 

IMG_5962_zpsxxb9pspe.jpg

IMG_5964_zpsauzxoz12.jpg

 

Thanks for looking...hope I'm not boring everyone with the minutia. 

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Make sure to check your pinion angle and if you have a carrier bearing you might want to shim that as well to help. I think 3" on up are supposed to be angled for a drop but I'm probably wrong

 

Absolutely, I think you are right. As soon as I get the CA18ET/71C combo stabbed and my trans mount fabbed up, I'll be able to see where it all lands. I figured I might need a shim or few to correct/match the angle(s).

 

That material is heavier than original I think. Not that that's a bad thing.

 

Looks like your off to a good start. Looking forward to living vicariously through your work....

 

It's .083 wall. Looks thicker than it is. But yeah I agree, it's still thicker than the original stuff...These cars are paper-thin to begin with.

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Feel free to weigh in on preferred short shocks for a 3 inch block. 

 

I think they are the same length as 510 shocks, if memory serves. The go to there is the RWD 85-87 Corolla GT-S (2" shorter) or '82-92 Camaro (3" shorter). 

 

If you can measure them fully extended I have a 510 shock here for comparison. 

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I think they are the same length as 510 shocks, if memory serves. The go to there is the RWD 85-87 Corolla GT-S (2" shorter) or '82-92 Camaro (3" shorter). 

 

If you can measure them fully extended I have a 510 shock here for comparison. 

 

Thanks, datsunfreak. I'll pull one off and measure.

 

You may want to visit Garland Steel (http://garlandsteel.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1), they used to have a great inventory of "used" USA steel, not imported steel.

Keith

 

A buddy who builds crazy Hemi-powered Jeeps here in town recommended Garland Steel as well. Heard good things. They are kinda far from me, though. Since I'm in the North 40, I use a place in McKinney, 20 minutes from the house. Nice to know they have quality products if my place can't get me what I need.

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Single pic update. Busted my hump this morning, so I rewarded myself with an hour in the garage. Didn't snap any pics along the way, but you get the idea.

 

Got my left frame rail repairs almost complete. Test-fitted the steering box just to make sure since I had to weld in a patch underneath it. Rail pieces tacked together. Still gotta get primer and gas for the welder. Smells like progress :)

 

IMG_5968_zpsn0aw4ccp.jpg

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Oh - anyone need a boat anchor? I have to move that seized A12/auto trans assy around every time I work in the garage.  :crying:

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Great find. It is awesome that you are moving at such a rapid pace. I had the only known 1200 2 Dr. Sedan in North Texas till now. My Sedan is intact and unmolested if you need any measurements or pics for your project. My computer blew up so I am trying to operate on a cheap android pad. Datsunfreak knows how to contact me. I also have a dis assembled sedan rear clip with an intact floor pan, little rust on the rest of it. It is just taking up a lot of space, but it is too rare to scrap. Hope all the DFW 1200 guys can meet up soon.

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Great find. It is awesome that you are moving at such a rapid pace. I had the only known 1200 2 Dr. Sedan in North Texas till now. My Sedan is intact and unmolested if you need any measurements or pics for your project. My computer blew up so I am trying to operate on a cheap android pad. Datsunfreak knows how to contact me. I also have a dis assembled sedan rear clip with an intact floor pan, little rust on the rest of it. It is just taking up a lot of space, but it is too rare to scrap. Hope all the DFW 1200 guys can meet up soon.

 

Hey Kilo, its great to meet yet another 1200 guy in North Texas! I'd love to see your car...and if you want to make a deal on the rear clip, I'll bring a trailer :)

And yes, lets put together a meet up...even if all we do is stand around and drink beer while pointing at someone's Datsun(s), I'm in!

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Hey Y'all. Tinkered on the 1200 a little today. Coming from the aircooled VW world, I'm used to rust...but Holy Hell...I just keep finding more!

Left subframe rail was toast, this I knew. But I was hoping to be able to salvage some of it. Nope. After hacking off the ugly, I cut a piece of 1X2 and hammered it as far as it would go inside the front rail. There plenty of good metal to spot to in there, so it should work out. Here is what I mocked up today:

 

We are looking at the driver foot well, BTW.

IMG_5998_zpsy84w4lo4.jpg

 

IMG_6004_zpsr4ooaar6.jpg

Cut two squares out of 1/8 plate for the back section to weld onto. Forgot to snap a pic though.

 

IMG_5997_zpsnnzeon1r.jpg

 

Waiting for my weld-through primer to get here, Should be today. As I was cleaning up for the night, brown Santa came :

IMG_6003_zps85mwjkir.jpg

 

Hoping to have the left side done tomorrow. Then the right side. Ugh! I'm ready for the fun stuff (mocking up the drivetrain). 

 

Thanks for looking! 

 

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Left subframe tacked in. I'll do all the finish welding once I trailer it to a buddies shop...with a lift. Welding on your back sucks when you get old.

 

IMG_6007_zps1jpbryyq.jpg

 

More to come :)

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Taking a break from rust. Ordered two 165/50r/15 and mounted them up for suspension mocking purposes. Probably go with a 195/45 on the back for a little more side wall.

3 inch blocks in back and front is just hovering there.

4E0272E8-9F74-4B45-ADE0-EBBAB600B4BE_zps

F563F941-F8A0-49BF-A106-62111A195A28_zps

 

Wheels are 6 inches wide with an ET30, so lowering the perch is limited to 1.5 inches. Was going to do Coilovers (still may) but I'll need to run a 5mm spacer to get the wheel away from the strut to clear the threaded collar. Not sure which way I'm going yet. Perch is just tacked in right now.

9FCEAFB7-E7BA-454D-8CF7-F13B39C4929F_zps

 

I chopped one coil out for starters. Threw the crossmember and an LCA back in to see where I am as far as track. Below is with pressure on the LCA, obviously no drivetrain is in the car, so I'll wait till the engine and interior are in before I chop any more out of the springs, or decide on Coilovers. 

 

ECE0B062-198A-4DCD-BD6D-AE8C0FF3D587_zps

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