poopypants720 Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 So just got my electric fan mounted up. It's a dual speed double fan setup out of an early 2000's Ford focus. Almost fits perfect to the radiator and only took a little trimming to make it flush and pretty simple to mount (bonus points if anyone knows what the mounting brackets were repurposed from). Should move some major cfm's and shares the same shape in fan blade as the infamous Ford Taurus fan that's great at "scooping" up air and sucking it through the radiator with a quickness... The fact that the shroud mounts so flush to the radiator now should help optimize this as well. Pulled some tips from this thread (http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028) and wiring everything through a Volvo high energy relay/controller which really simplifies wiring(even though I have fun doing electric) but more than anything it's CHEAP. Also ordered this in line T (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_TPI-TBI_Brass-Tees.html part specified as "1-5/16 x 14 mm x 1.5 p") so I could use this bmw dual temp switch (https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,107,61311378073)... This eliminates having to wire up multiple relays to run one or two fans or dual speeds and eliminates having to mount multiple temp probes and controllers and wraps it up into two main components besides the fan itself... Not to mention I actually pulled my relay controller and temp switch from the junk yard today for 14 bucks together on half off day... Got the fans for 33 bucks. Also grabbed the mounting bracket for the relay controller and found the perfect spot for it to go... Right in front of my "rebuilt" battery tray... Oh... N took a hack saw right up and down through my fan clutch n just left the shaft and bearing behind as they fit perfectly between/before both fans when mocking up... N prob be even more room now that I adapted the shroud to sit flush to the radiator. I'll post more pics once I get it installed and wired up tomorrow morning. :D 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Nice write up. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Thanks, Charlie! Got it installed... Can see that the water pump pulley shaft goes just between and below(on a 2"body lift) and had the clutch still been on it, no way would it fit. Mayyybe would fit without the body lift too... But it's close Modified the relay mounting bracket a little more and got it installed... Also did all the wiring except the temp sensor as im still waiting for the T adapter... Dual temp switch wires waiting their home... Fan grounded to base of battery tray(dual temp switch will also ground here). And the power run through an inline 30amp fuse to a "hot" block I've added when I was sorting out alternator wiring issues forever ago... Once the temperature switch inline T adapter gets here, I'll wire it up(as well as my kill and high level override switches) and take a video of it working... 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 So I wanted to get some led lights to indicate when the low or high fans were running n then I saw some 3 prong switches that had led indicators, meant to show when they were activated... Trouble is, the way they are meant to be wired is on a positively controlled circuit... Meanwhile I'm trying to add manual control to a negatively controlled circuit... Had to just forget the diagram for the switch altogether, n just figure out how to make it work... This crude picture shows exactly how I intend to double duty these led lit switches. The blue lit switch is my kill switch, which will always be "on" in a normally closed fashion and the light will indicate the low fan speed activity. The red lit switch is my high fan override switch, which will always be "off" in a normally open fashion and the light will indicate the high fan speed activity. Another great thing about the Volvo relay/controller is that when source ground is applied to the high fan speed circuit, the low fan speed circuit automatically cuts out... This is the whole reason the BMW temp switch even works with the relay without redundant cut-off relays AND is the whole reason why my led indicators will work properly for me as I propose to wire them. Also my switches are rated for 30amp, the same as my fuse is set for this system... So, while I'm not an electronics wizard, I assume the low led power source will be safe to wire as I have done here... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Got a picture of the dual temp sensor???? 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Got a picture of the dual temp sensor????Sure enough... This is the one I pulled from the jy the other day along with another pig tail. These are the two main connector set ups for the bmw dual temp switch, but someone already pulled the radiator and sensor(sensor stock mounts directly to the bmw radiator) for the one type, but forgot the pig tail to the harness, so I helped myself to it, in case my sensor wound up being a bum sensor... Well good thing I did... Cleaned up the sensor today and realized it's set for a much higher temp range than I want my fans to kick here in the desert, so I went right to rockauto.com and picked up a 180°/195° sensor for 12 bucks and a 195°/210° sensor for 11 bucks so this way I have multiple sensors to test out and install as needed for whatever seems to match up best for my climate and driving conditions... Here's a pic of the sensor and an aftermarket connector kit in case you can't get the sensor or pig tail off a harness and here's a list of part numbers for each item #61318361787--BMW temp switch 180°/195° #61311378073--BMW temp switch 195°/210° #61131378412--BMW 90° angle connector #61130007445--BMW 90° green connector wires 2 required #61130007446--BMW 90° green/black connector for ground 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Lots of guys were getting weld in bungs and adapters for their radiators or intake manifold... Since it's a m14x1.5 metric thread, I don't know if it will fit stock anywhere in the intake... But personally I want the sensor reading after the thermostat so that's why I opted for the inline T adapter(purchased tapped for the application from the site listed in OP) that I'll be installing in my upper radiator hose just after the thermostat housing... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 You want the sender in or near the lower rad return line. The water is going to be hottest at the upper rad hose. Your fan will be coming on all the time when not needed. On the return hose it gives the rad a chance to cool the water first. If the return water begins to over heat ... then the fan comes on for additional cooling. How does this connect to the GM in line fitting you showed??? 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 You want the sender in or near the lower rad return line. The water is going to be hottest at the upper rad hose. Your fan will be coming on all the time when not needed. On the return hose it gives the rad a chance to cool the water first. If the return water begins to over heat ... then the fan comes on for additional cooling. How does this connect to the GM in line fitting you showed??? Maybe you want the inline sensor in the lower radiator hose, but I live in the desert where it's typically 105°+ 4 months out of the year and I don't want to wait for my water to "begin to overheat" before my fans kick in to cool. Things get real hot, real fast in higher ambient temperatures. I already run a 160° thermostat and so my radiator will still have plenty of time to work at flow cooling before the fans kick, not to mention, much of my driving with this truck will be done off road at slow speeds and in low gears/high rpms so I want cooling to be optimized. I'll have 3 sensors by the time this is done that can easily be swapped for the climate and application if I find the low fan is coming on too early or not shutting off quickly enough... As for the radiator hose T... That picture shows the typical 3 hose adapter... I'm getting part specified as "1-5/16 x 14mm x 1.5P (for BMW E36 water temp fan switch)" Where the hose adapter is replaced with a threaded adapter... It's on the list about half way down and you purchase it by entering the specified size "1-5/16 x 14mm x 1.5P" in the applicable field. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Got it! 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 when OEs design cooling systems, specifically Nissan, they put the sensor down there. 240sx have a pipe with a temp sensor in the lower radiator hose, very similar in design to what you are describing. Regardless, it will keep the engine from overheating. Good work on your research. Thanks for posting up all the info on those different temp sensors and the connector. 2 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Was going through the list of items I've installed and even with multiple temp switches this entire conversion has cost me just over $135... 2002 Ford Focus 2 speed dual electric fans $33.00 Volvo 2 Speed fan relay controller $7.50 BMW dual temperature switch (#8360857 91°C/104°C) and 2pig tails $7.50 BMW dual temperature switch (#61311378073 195°F/205°F) $10.95 BMW dual temperature switch (#61318361787 180°F/195°F) $11.30 Radiator hose T adapter (part specified 1-5/16 x 14mm x 1.5P (for BMW E36 water temp fan switch) $24.00 30amp Red LED high fan over ride switch/high fan speed indicator $7.49 30amp Blue LED fan kill switch/Low fan speed indicator $7.49 30amp ATC inline splash proof fuse holder $3.49 Various wires and crimps and disconnected $16.47 Bargain bin hack saw and additional metal cutting blade $6.00 Total 135.19 If I would have just pulled one temp switch, not done led lit switches, had welding skills capable of adding a threaded bung to the radiator, and owned a hack saw already, I could have pulled this conversion off for $70! Either way, I'm happy with the results for the cost. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 when OEs design cooling systems, specifically Nissan, they put the sensor down there. 240sx have a pipe with a temp sensor in the lower radiator hose, very similar in design to what you are describing. Regardless, it will keep the engine from overheating. Good work on your research. Thanks for posting up all the info on those different temp sensors and the connector. Oh, I know the 240 had it in the lower hose stock... I actually came across Mike's thread over on 720 world through all my homework... I really wanted to find a 240 sensor and put it in my upper hose at first, but then I found the info on the Volvo relay/bmw switch combo n was sold. But just cause it's there stock doesn't mean much for my application... The bmw this sensor comes from is in the upper end of the radiator, right below where the upper hose spills into the radiator... Many other vehicles are also radiator mounted too and most other vehicles have them right in the intake manifold or even the head. I certainly didn't want before the thermostat in the IM and really didn't want to have to wait for my entire radiator to circulate its cool contents out into the engine until hot water filled the radiator so much that it finally got to the bottom house to kick on the fan... In all honesty though, I'm running a 160° thermostat and in a hot climate(it's 80° today), it's not often my thermostat is closed, other that right upon startup, allowing the engine to just reach operating temps... If my constantly circulating water is now breaching 180° or 195°, I want to start cooling it down, and fast. Last thing I want is to overheat in the middle of a ridgline trail or long incline... 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 I hear ya. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Hmmm... Well... I should have REALLY forgotten about that wiring diagram on the back of those switches, not just their labeled inputs... Wasn't working the way they "should" so I popped one open... Not only is there two real switches inside (pretty much flips on the ground AND power source at the same time and connects them both to the load/powered item) but the led had a one way resistor that wasn't going to allow me to swap intend posts for ground and power(not that it matters now anyways considering it's not even a complete circuit at all times as indicated)...So I just customized the switch myself. Now the lower two posts can serve as my intended override/kill switches and the wires are obviously for the led... Maintained the one way resistor jic this also restricted power for the led(don't want to burn it out) so it does have a specified +/- but I've yet to tie them in to test, although I'm sure they will work fine... Also... Already got in my custom T... Looks way high quality. Like it was cnc'ed from a straight block of billet aluminum! I also like the fact that the threads are right into the main pipe and not a real "T" at all where water would have to flow into, but rather it will stick right into the path of the water. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Finished the wiring and all is running great! Got the new Weber on and went for a drive, kicks on perfectly! Only thing that didn't happen was the internal led status lights. The solder couldn't hold up to the movement of the switch and kept breaking. So the wiring is already ran, just gotta get some separate led lights to mount next to the switches. I'll snap some shots of the temp sensor/T placement and in dash switches later today. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Oh, also bumped the system from an inline 30amp fuse to a 40amp auto resetting circuit breaker... Kept blowing fuses and figured it might be the case when I first put it in, cause on initial startup those fans draw a lot more amperage... This should be better suited and if it does trip the breaker, at least I'm not going to have to replace it every time. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Great write up and follow ups. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Finally got the pictures taken of the completed install(weber 38 on too)... Here is the circuit breaker mounted on the wall... Cut the cap off the inline fuse folder to cover the terminals... The whole engine bat as it stands(need an extended breather tube to connect to the new air cleaner... In dash switch placement... Gonna have the new leds posted to the outside of each switch when they come in(need em too, cause I can't even hear the low fan running over my engine)! 2 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thought I'd update with a diagram of how final wiring was laid out. I will take a picture of the led indicators tomorrow when it's light and add it too. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Is one fan significantly higher cfm than the other? Or is the fan assembly setup so that both fans are always on together, just at low or high speeds? Otherwise it just seems like its switching from fan a to fan b. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Is one fan significantly higher cfm than the other? Or is the fan assembly setup so that both fans are always on together, just at low or high speeds? Otherwise it just seems like its switching from fan a to fan b. The fans have different blade count and angle to help with circulation, but yes, they both run simultaneously and low and high fan speed using an integrated resistors harness... The food contour fan is similar, but to big for our little radiator. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Here's the LEDs installed and their function... No lights, fans off Blue light, low fan speed Blue and red, high fan speed engaged(notice fan switches are both up to as I typically have to override to even get the high fan speed to kick on, the low fan speed is already very efficient.) 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 I hate photobucket right now.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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