Ignition switch problems....any ideas?

[Kytoaster]

So, I just replaced the ignition switch in october of 2015 because I just couldn't seem to hold my mouth right to get it to start. 

It's been fine, working great, until today. Randomly, it started acting just like the one I replaced. 

On position works great, lights come on, gas gauge starts moving, until I turn it to the start position...and everything shuts off. 

If I wiggle it while I'm starting, it might start, but as soon as I let go of the key and it goes back to the resting "running" position, it dies. If I hold the key JUST right, it will stay running...but it's extremely difficult.

The truck key is on a keyring with the spare truck key, the door key, and my three regular sized house keys. Is this REALLY enough weight to harm the ignition switch?

[DanielC]

The more weight you put on the key switch, the faster it is going to wear.  Remember, you are working with over 40 years old parts here.

[banzai510(hainz)]

what vehicle is this?

 

I cant see another Jap made  switch going bad this fast.

 

Most times loose connector in back of switch or starter or at coil ect.....

[G-Duax]

Was your replacement switch a genuine Nissan part, or was it a fake out of Tiawan ?

(the 3rd world crap sellers are even duplicating Nissan packaging now)

[banzai510(hainz)]

Most of the switches I seen out of Rockauto are Jap Denki or what whatever stock is.

I just got a 521 switch and looks like stock Jap

[Kytoaster]

what vehicle is this?

 

I cant see another Jap made  switch going bad this fast.

 

Most times loose connector in back of switch or starter or at coil ect.....

It's a 74 datsun 620, I checked all of the connections going to the switch, as well as the connection to the starter/coil. 

[Kytoaster]

Was your replacement switch a genuine Nissan part, or was it a fake out of Tiawan ?

(the 3rd world crap sellers are even duplicating Nissan packaging now)

I WANT to say it was a beck/arnley switch?

 

If I wanted to get an NOS part, would my best bet be ebay? I'd rather spend a little more if I have to and get a genuine part this time.

[420n620]

can you please post a pic of the switch ?  If it's like the 521, you'll need a better switch and have to remove the tumblers to the better/good/new one. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Mine was in a Beck Arnley box also.

[5t341tH]

I bought my ignition switch from rockauto too and I didn't have any problems. Worked fine til I replaced it with a dz start. If you are local, you can have my old one. I assume yours came with a new key as well?

[G-Duax]

I WANT to say it was a beck/arnley switch?

 

 

 

Was probably a good Japanese switch then, as many US name brand people were just reboxing quality OEM manufactured parts out of Japan.

[datsunaholic]

I've had the metal casing tabs come loose and the circuit board tried to push itself out the back.  That makes the contacts fail to work.  I took it out, re-peened the locktabs and it worked again.  My switch gets badly abused.

[datzenmike]

On position works great, lights come on, gas gauge starts moving, until I turn it to the start position...and everything shuts off.

This is normal and all ignitions do this.

 

 

 

If I wiggle it while I'm starting, it might start, but as soon as I let go of the key and it goes back to the resting "running" position, it dies. If I hold the key JUST right, it will stay running...but it's extremely difficult.

In the START position power goes directly to the coil + terminal. When you release the key to ON or RUN this connection ends and power from the ignition goes only to the coil by going through the ballast resistor. Your ballast resistor is broken or one of the connections to it or from it to the coil is bad.

[Kytoaster]

This is normal and all ignitions do this.

 

 

 

In the START position power goes directly to the coil + terminal. When you release the key to ON or RUN this connection ends and power from the ignition goes only to the coil by going through the ballast resistor. Your ballast resistor is broken or one of the connections to it or from it to the coil is bad.

Well, nothing works now via the ignition switch. I'm replacing it, but im getting a new switch from the local parts store and hanging onto all reciepts/warranty stuff/etc.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Fuse pop??????????

[Kytoaster]

What she's doing. I'm super confused, as I just replaced it in october!

I guess I'll be keeping a separate key for the ignition on my so there is NO weight on it from now on.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dude why you snap the key back?

I want to see if runs and let key snap back its self, not with your hand. I cant tell if you rotating key back to on.

 

  see if it stays running in the start position!!!!!!!!!!! then the ballast resisitor is broken or the ON wire is broke going to the coil soemwhere . ck the fuse on the ignition side. now I dont know if power the instrument panel but the ignition fuse power the coil. cant remeber if tied to togehther on same fuse with the HOT START

 

 

also reseat the connector on back switch.

 

icehouse says there were 5 or 6 prong 610 switches and said they were different unless you got the wrong one in box  but this is a hail mary.

[Kytoaster]

Dude why you snap the key back?

I want to see if runs and let key snap back its self, not with your hand. I cant tell if you rotating key back to on.

 

  see if it stays running in the start position!!!!!!!!!!! then the ballast resisitor is broken or the ON wire is broke going to the coil soemwhere . ck the fuse on the ignition side. now I dont know if power the instrument panel but the ignition fuse power the coil. cant remeber if tied to togehther on same fuse with the HOT START

 

Definitely doesn't stay running if I don't touch the key after "starting" it. The only way to keep it running WAS to jiggle the key back and forth to find a tiny "sweet spot". Unfortunately, it looks like it won't even do that anymore. 

 

 

also reseat the connector on back switch.

 

I pulled it off, put a little dielectric grease on it and re-seated it. Unfortunately, it didn't make any difference.

 

icehouse says there were 5 or 6 prong 610 switches and said they were different unless you got the wrong one in box  but this is a hail mary.

 

I belieeve it is a 5 prong.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Well the sweet spot pretty much throws my guess out

[Kytoaster]

Well, I caved. I need the truck for daily use, so I ordered a new ignition switch. Once I replace it and have some free time, I'm going to try and figure out what made it fail so quickly.

I'll definitely be keeping my receipt for the 1 year warranty this time though!

[datzenmike]

Video is confusing. Turn to START and crank engine until it starts, then just let go of key. It's spring loaded and will return to the ON position. Why are you returning it to the ACCESSORY position???? No wonder it doesn't keep running.

[Kytoaster]

Video is confusing. Turn to START and crank engine until it starts, then just let go of key. It's spring loaded and will return to the ON position. Why are you returning it to the ACCESSORY position???? No wonder it doesn't keep running.

I did let go of it in the video directly after I started it? It died immediately. I then tried to turn back to accessory or in between accessory and on to see if I could catch the "sweet spot" where it would stay running.

[Kytoaster]

I think I have figured out the confusion everyone is having with the video. Once I start the truck in the video, I am indeed just letting go of the key.

I tried to tighten down the thread that holds the ignition switch in (thinking it may just be moving around causing a problem), which caused the "guide" that says "accessory, on, start/etc" to move around quite a bit, meaning it doesn't line up with where the key actually is.

I meant to turn it back so it lined up with the key position, I just forgot.