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Snapp_Hunter's Lil' Headache


snapp_hunter

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found another truck by sheer dumb luck, hopefully pick it up this weekend if I can get the funds together in time. speaking of, I started a classified add to sell of my spare parts, you guys should check it out ;)http://s1305.photobucket.com/user/snapp_hunter1/library/Datsun?sort=3&page=1

anyways, heres a pick of the truck, its a 74, which is a bummer for me because I really wanted the disc brake/balljoint setup of the 79. also that makes it a 1.6l, not the 2.0. does anyone know about switching the spindles and stuff to make it a front disc setup? or do I have to buy a special kit? i know there is a kit available, but I want to know f I can swap factory for factory. new%20dat_zps5qi8izlj.jpg

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I am not all that familiar with the 620s.  I have owned a couple buy default and resold them.The Datsun frames are like 2 C channels welded together.  I would put the L20B in the 74.  You will like the L20B better than the 16. 

 

I emailed your for sale post to Gene and told him if he wanted any parts from you he had better make the decision and get the payment under way.  I hope you have PayPal as that is the way most of us pay each other for parts. 

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74 should have the L18 not L16. At least if I remember right. Either way L20b should be drop in with no modifications

 

Mklotz and beebani both have front disk brake kits that require different amounts of collecting (I think) but you should be able to run stock wheels with their kits.

 

I picked up a wildwood kit for my 73 but it requires minimum 15" rims for the fronts.

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I am not all that familiar with the 620s.  I have owned a couple buy default and resold them.The Datsun frames are like 2 C channels welded together.  I would put the L20B in the 74.  You will like the L20B better than the 16. 

 

I emailed your for sale post to Gene and told him if he wanted any parts from you he had better make the decision and get the payment under way.  I hope you have PayPal as that is the way most of us pay each other for parts. 

ive been talking with gene, we will see what all he wants from me! i appreciate it!

 

74 should have the L18 not L16. At least if I remember right. Either way L20b should be drop in with no modifications

 

Mklotz and beebani both have front disk brake kits that require different amounts of collecting (I think) but you should be able to run stock wheels with their kits.

 

I picked up a wildwood kit for my 73 but it requires minimum 15" rims for the fronts.

the rims on it look to be at least 15s, so anything will probably work then

 

The stainless rain gutters on the doors above the windows are much sought after items.

 

oh really? i have a set in my garage now, i didn't add them to my sale post.

74...L18

 

Klotz's kit fits stock wheels. Bee's does not.

 

 

Get after it!

im so ready to have one I can drive! he said l16, so he must be mistaken

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so i decided I couldn't risk this truck getting away from me because it was such a good deal. I got a small personal loan from my bank and called the guy to hold it for me. I'm taking the 4 hour trip to kentucky Sunday and picking it up. I'm super pumped! my parts truck is going over well, once i get the parts shipped out I will have made more on the truck than i spent on it, and its only been 48 hours. i would've never thought this rust truck had this many good parts on it haha

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got the truck, pics to follow Tuesday. will be dark before I get off work tomorrow. its not as nice as i thought, but still worth fixing. my only big concern is that the previous owner had been messing with the wiring. why do people even rip apart a perfectly good harness?

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finally got to spend some time out at the truck today

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took a wire brush to the wheels; the before

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the after, still needs a polish, but looks a ton better already

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also cleaned up the caps on the brake booster, they were so rusty that it was getting rust inside the reservoirs, good thing the filters are easy to clean

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then out of boredom, wanted to see what it would do on a part of the valvecover

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now for the serious part, I  ran fresh gas through the engine from a gas can, and the truck will not start. brand new battery today, so it cranks but wont turn over. went and checked the carburator, and it was bone dry. so I imagine a rebuild is in its future. I imagine there are detailed writeups for Weber carb rebuilds here somewhere. Now the previous owner had been messing with the wiring harness. I don't understand why anyone ever takes a harness apart... but so far no lights or anything work, and I imagine this could be part of my no start problem. he tried labeling some of the wires, but he used painters tape and a blue pen :rolleyes:

 

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here are all the disconnected wires under the glovebox, and there are a few others on the drivers side that I neglected to take a picture of. one last thing, should the truck be able to shift gears without depressing the clutch? ive never had a manual trans that could do that, but this truck does, and so does my parts truck. i can also crank the engine without my foot on the clutch. the clutch master cylinder is dry, so I suspect that could be my problem?

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there's no nuetral safety switch on these trucks (at least not mine, don't know about your year) so the clutch does not have to be depressed to start the truck 

 

when the vehicle is off i think you should be able to cycle gears without hitting the clutch (i can with my three manual vehicles that run not including bikes). you can also cycle through gears if you're at the right rpm while driving without hitting the clutch. again tested on all my manuals that run. 

 

the wires i'm at a loss for. do you have a fsm for your year? if you do it will have wire diagrams for you to look at. some of those almost look like radio wires to me but i'm probably wrong. 

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I see a new coil. Did he replace distributor as well? Maybe that isn't installed properly. 

 

 

How about the fuel pump?

the distributor hasn't been replaced as far as I know, he did to plugs, wires coil, cap and rotor. so maybe he did replace it so Ill have to look into that. fuel pump was going, i placed my fuel filter where i could see it while i cranked and was definitely pulling fuel, but not making it to the carb? all the rubber lines have been replaced

 

 

there's no nuetral safety switch on these trucks (at least not mine, don't know about your year) so the clutch does not have to be depressed to start the truck 

 

when the vehicle is off i think you should be able to cycle gears without hitting the clutch (i can with my three manual vehicles that run not including bikes). you can also cycle through gears if you're at the right rpm while driving without hitting the clutch. again tested on all my manuals that run. 

 

the wires i'm at a loss for. do you have a fsm for your year? if you do it will have wire diagrams for you to look at. some of those almost look like radio wires to me but i'm probably wrong. 

good to know, i was slightly concerned whe i could shift it without the clutch. i don't have a service manual besides the Road Emperor book i posted, I plan on finding one though. I thought they looked like radio wires too, but looking at wiring diagrams online shows that the headlight wires are colored with tracers to differentiate between the lights i guess.

 

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What the fuck is going on with that junction in there? Is that fuel or is that all coolant? 

 

WTF. Who does that? And why?

 

hehe yeah... I have no idea. its all coolant line

Its got a water choke.  Ive never seen one before.  Thats one way of doing it i reckon.

 

If you put a shot of fuel down the carb, will it run?

is that what that is? I've never even heard of that. :confused:  i hadn't put any fuel down the carb, but i reckon it would. i ran out of daylight.

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