skyshadow Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 I had a fairly eventful weekend. Tore down the CA to replace the timing belt, water pump etc. Decided to paint the covers when putting it back together. Here's a look. Also took a wire wheel to the cab to clean up the rust. Found more holes then I wanted to :/ I'll be putting in new sheet metal in the places I circled. That is not a fun job. If Anyone feels like doing that for me, I'll buy you beer. And Lastly, I got some old Z seats to spice things up a little bit. I think since I'm running a CA18det, I earned them. 3 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 i wanted those seats (not that set exactly) but i got the ones without the vents because they were in good condition and cheaper 1 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 I got them for $40 from a local guy. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 damn, yours were cheaper than mine i had to drive an hour for mine, i think it was 160 for the set or so, can't remember, found them on craigslist i think 2 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Finally got the cab all stitched up. Also (You can't see it but) I made mounting spots for the seats. 2 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Found and pulled this thing last night. It's an evap tank right? I was mounted in the right rear fender above the gas tank. Also found out my master is pretty much junk. Hope these are easy to replace. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Yes basically an evap tank. I'm not home so I can't see what the book says but I remember reservoir being labeled on there And master cylinders are easy, just did mine a few weeks back, bench bleed that thing and two nuts 2 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Being that I'm running a CA18det and it needs a return fuel line, I was considering using that line for the return. Any objections to that? 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 You can get the master on rockauto.com with the reservoirs. 1 Quote Link to comment
red13 Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Save those reservoir clamps, Z guys love them 1 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 I pulled my wiring diagram from here (http://www.datsunforum.com/Datsun_Wiring_Diagrams/Datsun%20620%20Pickups/Datsun_620_Pickup_Wiring_Diagram_1973.pdf) and my harness colors do not match this diagram at all. Any ideas on why that would be? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Try here there is a 1973 manual trans and a 1973 automatic trans, You have to scroll down the page to get to the PDFs. http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm 2 Quote Link to comment
red13 Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 which wires? that downloadable one isnt that great 1 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 From what I looked at, the side marker wires were the wrong color and some relays were not even on the diagram. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 what you need ? most can just be fixed or figure out with e multimeter. Datsun wiring is pretty good. Most is just corrossion. 1 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 I'm trying to eliminate all stock wiring that went to the stock motor, since I'm going to be running the CA18. I also want to blend the CA harness and the 620 harness into one. So keep lights and horns etc and remove all relays and ignition wires not needed. I've decided this will be easier done with the stock harness plugged up. Just go wire by wire and remove unneeded stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 WTF!!!!!!!!OK I don't get this one You keep the stock harness and if it works then just leave it. To hook up the modern CA18 if this is Fuel injected motor you just power this motor harness that you got with the car from the car with the box module. Youll use the stock 620 ignition harness to turn on the relays they you add to power the engine harness fuel pump ect.....THIS IS THE EZist way. to rewire the lights ful tank sender ect just don't make sense and be honest wont get done.YOU WILLL NOT FINNISH THIS just drive to scrapper know if the harness already has been Yank out . look up KA wiring on here using a can-Am box.in the HOW TO section. to remove the relays for the lights don't make sense. side markers ect........ stock harness plugged up????? 3 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 stock harness plugged up????? As in plugged into lights and markers so I can see what isnt used on the new set up. I.E. pretty sure the starter wire would not still be used from the L16. I would rather not run two stock harness' on my truck with tons on unnecessary wires floating around. Looks tacky to me. I'm going to run my CA18 ECU under the passenger seat with the Can am box then blend the two harness' at the firewall to flow as one. BUT.. I've ran into bigger problems anyways. Looks like the CA18det harness I got with my motor has been cavalierly chopped up. So, important things like Cam angle sensor and MAF were, for some reason, cut off. I think I'll just focus on getting the thing to run now, before I try cleaning it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 You still need the starter wire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think You can use the Hotstart wire for something also as a START signal to the ECU 1 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 That is a lot of (!)...lol Calm down. I think you are either misinterpreting what I am saying or assuming this is my first wiring rodeo. I do not need the 8ish gauge wire that goes from the stock relay to the L16 starter to turn it over. I can use the ignition signal wire from the original set up but that is different. Eliminating that stock relay set up would be much cleaner. Sure, I don't have to do it but I wanna. I did a throw together on a LS swapped C10 and it looked like a rat's nest under the hood. 1 Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Good progress so far. Like the paint job on the engine. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I don't get the 8 gauge wire to relay comment to turn starter Key switch is the wire to selinoid You need a 8 gauge to the starter at least anyways. Good luck 2 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 So I got one or two things done this weekend. I pulled the cab from the frame, pressure washed everything, covered the frame,engine bay and underbody with POR15 (Then covered the underbody in sound deadening undercoating), mocked up the engine and trans, built solid mounts, mounted the engine and trans and slipped the cab back on. Everything looks great but I just have a few fitment problems with the steering. Going to have to go rack and pinion. Miata set ups work? Also, the rubber bushings from the body mounts were shot. To my knowledge, there isnt a company that makes a replacement set, right? I just have to piece something together from a universal kit..? And of course, I still need a damn driver side fender. Here are some pics though... With this last pic, you can see how the turbo it right in the way of the original steering. You can also see one of the adapters I build to mount the CA18. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Solid engine mounts? 1 Quote Link to comment
skyshadow Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Yes sir. Took the CA18 original mounts off but left the brackets. Just built a single bolt mounting adapter from the frame up. Welded to the frame but bolted to the engine bracket. Let me raise the motor up a little to allow the steering components to clear the oil pan. Also solid trans mount. For those, I took the original trans mount off the CA, burned it till all the rubber melted off, broke it apart then wire wheeled it down. Then just welded that from the trans to the original L16 trans cross member. 1 Quote Link to comment
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