Hondanx250 Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 I really should of made a build Thread. But Oh Well. Hey Guys, As you know if you have been following me. I Currently working on a Datsun 1979/80 A10 510 Wagon. I was Stuck on the Distributor. But Today, I finally Got it to Fire at 8 Degrees BTDC. It has a Weber Carb and idles about 1200-1300RPM With all the Vacuum Lines Sealed Off. That seems little High to me. But, That where it seems to Idle the best. Anyways, Now the Current Problem is Shifting it into Gear. It Stalls out on me. The Dip Stick Shows its way over the H. Without the Engine At Running Temps yet. I know I need to Drain it too the right level. Before, It didn't shift into gear without me pushing it with my foot, So i added more, Then I could get it to move in the drive way back and forth at very High Idle. Then I think i added more Fluid Because the dip stick was not showing it had any. Now its Over the H. My Question is, Is that the Reason it is stalling on me is because i have too much Transmission Fluid in it when i stick it in Reverse and Drive? Or is there another Reason? I know too Much can Ruin a Transmission, So i plan on not touching it till i find out some more information. Thanks for the help in Advance! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 The transmission fluid sits in the bottom of the transmission. The fluid is drawn up into a hydraulic pump which holds it in gear and also 'shifts' the gears by hydraulically adding and removing clutches. If the fluid level is too high spinning parts will whip it into foam. These air bubbles are compressible and the hydraulic pump cannot maintain the proper pressure and clutches will slip and wear out. Get a pail and loosen/remove one of the coolant lines to the bottom of the radiator. Start and let idle until a quart is removed. Put the line back on and check the transmission level while idling and top it up in smaller amounts. No this won't cause stalling but a weak idle will. Get that idle down to 600-700. Check set the valve lash. This will probably improve the intake vacuum and strengthen (not increase) the idle. Timing on the L20B is 12 degrees. You say 79/80 so unknown which engine you have. If the carb is on the passenger side the timing may be 8 or less is it is a California model with 8 plugs. You should fill in your location on your profile. The timing will be on the under hood decal. Carb is non stock so may be jetted for larger engine....who knows? Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 The Engine is a Napz Z20s. 4plugs. On the Book it says idle should be at around 600rpm. The Book Says 8 Degrees Plus or Minus two degrees. But i can't get it any lower then then the 1to2k rpm idle Otherwise it will cut out. Yes,I do need to check the Valve lash, I was just trying to get the Distributor Correct First. And then go from there. The Weber i ordered is the correct one for the car. Or it should be at least. Said it was for the make and model. I did order a Spain made Weber. I will keep working on it, I know i am getting close. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 Throttle cable too tight? Throttle valve sticking? Secondary part open or not fully closed? Choke part on or fast idle cam engaged? http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm Trouble shooting the 32/26 Weber... http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Adjusted the Valves, But now it moved the Idle up and the Idle Mixture Srew does not do anything. I have the Throttle Cable Rigged, But what it weird about it is the Accelerator screw does does not touch the Throttle/Accelerator pulley. Still working on it, Taking a Lunch Break. Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Got it down to 600rpm Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 not touching is ok if the idle is fine really this is called the speed screw. the idle mixture is at the base of carb of coarse. make sure no sharp bends . sometimes a added helper return spring is needed 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 20, 2016 Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 Got it down to 600rpm Throttle cable was too tight. Warm the engine, choke off, idle 600... Good. Now turn the idle mixture in or out looking for a strong higher idle speed. There will be about one turn where it is faster and stronger... just set the mixture screw in the middle. Turn the idle speeds screw down to 700. Again turn the mixture in and out looking for the fastest smoothest idle speed, set in the middle. Keep doing this back and forth until you cannot improve the idle quality and the idle speed is about 700. 1 Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 UPDATE: Set Timing to 8 Degrees BTDC. Got the Idle Down to where it should be. Still having the Same Problem When i put my Foot on the Brake it drops the idle but does not cut. When i Put it in Reverse or Drive turns off complete. Video For Reference. http://vid599.photobucket.com/albums/tt77/segamaster/DSCN1356.mp4 I need to get some new spark plugs and coils. But before that i want it to move back and forth in Drive and Reverse. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 you really think you need new coils?????????? I never seen one go bad. on a L motor car at least. Napz cant be all that different either. I think you adjust the idle and timming in drive on a automatic. I think I seen this on olddatsuns.com tech section Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 That makes a lot more sense. Sorry, Should of spark plug wires not Coils. The spark plug wires are cheapy. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 E brake and block it, i thought 600 in the manuals was IN GEAR. The 620 i had years ago was auto, it was set at about 600 in drive but came up to 1100-1200 in neutral. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 UPDATE: Set Timing to 8 Degrees BTDC. Got the Idle Down to where it should be. Still having the Same Problem When i put my Foot on the Brake it drops the idle but does not cut. When i Put it in Reverse or Drive turns off complete. Video For Reference. http://vid599.photobucket.com/albums/tt77/segamaster/DSCN1356.mp4 I need to get some new spark plugs and coils. But before that i want it to move back and forth in Drive and Reverse. Be sure the brake booster is not the problem Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Should Update this, I got it Running in Drive at 8 Degrees. I need to Order a Accelerator cable and do minor adjustments and should be ready to test around the block. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Warmed up The transmission fluid sits in the bottom of the transmission. The fluid is drawn up into a hydraulic pump which holds it in gear and also 'shifts' the gears by hydraulically adding and removing clutches. If the fluid level is too high spinning parts will whip it into foam. These air bubbles are compressible and the hydraulic pump cannot maintain the proper pressure and clutches will slip and wear out. Get a pail and loosen/remove one of the coolant lines to the bottom of the radiator. Start and let idle until a quart is removed. Put the line back on and check the transmission level while idling and top it up in smaller amounts. Get that idle down to 600-700. Check set the valve lash. This will probably improve the intake vacuum and strengthen (not increase) the idle. Timing on the L20B is 12 degrees. You say 79/80 so unknown which engine you have. If the carb is on the passenger side the timing may be 8 or less is it is a California model with 8 plugs. You should fill in your location on your profile. The timing will be on the under hood decal. Carb is non stock so may be jetted for larger engine....who knows? Get the valves done. All these things will improve the idle strength so that it will run well when loaded down in gear at idle. You have a weber carb??? Is the gasket leaking air? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 No this won't cause stalling but a weak idle will. Get that idle down to 600-700. Check set the valve lash. This will probably improve the intake vacuum and strengthen (not increase) the idle. Timing on the L20B is 12 degrees. You say 79/80 so unknown which engine you have. If the carb is on the passenger side the timing may be 8 or less is it is a California model with 8 plugs. You should fill in your location on your profile. The timing will be on the under hood decal. Carb is non stock so may be jetted for larger engine....who knows? Quote Link to comment
Hondanx250 Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Update, Installed Accelerator cable. Moved while giving it gas in Drive and Reverse! Getting closer and closer! Quote Link to comment
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