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'74 Cactus Green


FrankRizzo

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I see your pictures from the MAF trouble show a very red air filter. Either that is a new filter or you over oiled it after cleaning. It appears to be a very common problem and results in exactly the problems you had. Well... maybe it’s not THAT common, but I’ve done it and didn’t have too much trouble finding other idiots on various Rat-free forums that had done it too.

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^ Thanks. I bought Berrymans MAF cleaner early on in the troubleshooting process, so I think it would have cleaned any residual oil off the sensor.... The engine ran fine for a year before it started acting up. The red air filter was from the PO and I replaced it with a shorter one when i was re working the intake (on the passenger side  B) ). 

 

The "replacement" MAF from RockAuto was a poorly remanufactured made in China item (POS) and worked like crap from almost the get go regardless of the air filter. My problem was i kept thinking that I eliminated MAF as the cause of the stalling because "I just replaced it", so I went about replacing the IACV, FPR, plugs, cap, rotor, wires and aux air valve over the next 3 to 4 months. The ECU kept throwing the MAF was bad code, so out of desperation I bought a new MAF from Nissan online and it has never run better. By then it was past the 90 day warranty return period so I had to eat the cost. fuuuuu. Plus all the unnecessary parts I replaced. double fuuuuuu.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wheel test fit. Isuzu Trooper LS alum. 16x7 +38 w Firestone Firehawk Indy 500, 205/55 front 225/50 rear.

 

Still have to sort out the center caps. It's hard to find the blank ones without the Isuzu logo and need black lug nutz...Rubbing in the back slightly. Will need to add new studz and 1/4" spacers. 

 

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Got the wheels sorted out.

Installed new wheel studs. Converted to 1.50 thread pitch and picked up McGuard black chrome deep lug nutz.

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Baer solid aluminum 1/2" spacers for the rear

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With 1" spacers in the front. 

I managed to score two 'blank' center caps on ebay (put them on the rear), still looking for two more. 

Tires are 225/50/16 rear, 205/55/16 in the front, Firestone Firehawk indy 500 summer tires.

 

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You'd need at least 1/4" spacers front and rear to keep from rubbing on the inside leafs/control arms. I went with the 1" front and 1/2" rear spacers to get the tires more flush without sticking out.

 

FWIW these wheels are the same size and offset as the Nismo TE37X factory Ray's wheel.

 

These tire sizes are pretty close to stock diameter, so they fill the wheel wells pretty good IMHO. Interesting thing is that the steering effort is the same or easier that the 195/60's i replaced. 

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You'd need at least 1/4" spacers front and rear to keep from rubbing on the inside leafs/control arms. I went with the 1" front and 1/2" rear spacers to get the tires more flush without sticking out.

 

FWIW these wheels are the same size and offset as the Nismo TE37X factory Ray's wheel.

 

These tire sizes are pretty close to stock diameter, so they fill the wheel wells pretty good IMHO. Interesting thing is that the steering effort is the same or easier that the 195/60's i replaced. 

Thanks for the info! I was thinking of using 1/2" for both front and rear for my Nismo's.

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Thanks for the info! I was thinking of using 1/2" for both front and rear for my Nismo's.

 

FYI - I dont think you can run 1/2" spacers with the stock studs, I couldnt - but I have Isuzu rear calipers. You'll might have to upgrade to longer ones. I chose the ARP ones for a Chevy and they fit perfectly, that's why I changed to 12x1.5 pitch. Tip: get a stud install tool on Amazon. It helps immensely when installing the new ones.

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FYI - I dont think you can run 1/2" spacers with the stock studs, I couldnt - but I have Isuzu rear calipers. You'll might have to upgrade to longer ones. I chose the ARP ones for a Chevy and they fit perfectly, that's why I changed to 12x1.5 pitch. Tip: get a stud install tool on Amazon. It helps immensely when installing the new ones.

Do you have an part# for both the studs and the tool? Why did you go to different size tires from the front vs the back, looks?

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Tire size = looks only. They are both almost the same diameter, but like many "exotics" the staggered look has a good visual to me. I dont like stretch and poke, I like to tuck meats without rolling the fender lip. Mike liked my p0st, so that means it has to be remotely "ok". #youkidsgetoffmylawn  

 

The stud installer is on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUD22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The studs are on Amazon or Summit.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFO0KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are ARP 1007708, http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=68 The knurl is .509 which fits perfectly in my Isuzu rotors. They are listed as a GM part, and you have to change your lug nuts from 12x1.25 TO 12x1.50 to use them...so order new lug nuts. If you dont get extra deep lug nuts, you'll need to cut them off shorter because they will be too long. They are Grade 8, so I'd suggest you get an angle grinder with a new good, fresh wheel if you cut them.

 

Since I was using 1" spacers in the front, I ordered 1.50 spacers to match the new rear studs:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKZ77GH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  

 

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FTL: my 3 month old Walbro GSL 393 fuel pump started screaming a couple of days ago.

 

I done with these cheapo fuel pumps. I ordered a new Aeromotive 1109 pump and I'm installing a Holley electric "pusher" pump between the tank and the hi pressure pump. Even though the main pimp is mounted below the fuel tank, it cant suck worth a damn. I'm hoping it solves the fuel issues.

 

I saw a p0st about a guy with a Z having the same issues...http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96509-fuel-pump-noise-too-much. He installed a pusher pump.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fail.

 

Pump(s) dont help. FML. Seems like it is starving for fuel, this pump is wailing like the walbro which is a sign of low fuel volume input. I even blew out the line back to the tank with low pressure compressed air to make sure it is not clogged.

Im going to drop the tank and see if I can install a new Aeromotive in tank pump and fuel pressure regulator and new fuel lines.

 

Cant really drive it because it sputters and surges above 2500 RPM.

 

grrrrr.

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  • 1 month later...

All my problems were related to my super fancy carbon fiber intake tube rubbing the dizzy 12v wires to the point they melted a hole in the intake tube and scorched the wires. Nice. I like causing my own problems!!! I replaced the noisy pump anyways.

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Im re-doing the intake tube with some 2.5" brake cooling duct and a couple of roll bar clamps to keep it away from the dizzy.

 

My carpet is getting jacked up and matted down, so I went back to Stock interiors and ordered floor mats, Since the original carpet kit was for a 720, I ordered 720 floor mats and they fit pretty good.

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Freshly washed - I finally found a set of blank Isuzu center caps for the front...I wish I could find a vintage set of Koni red shocks since they are so visible...

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Next project might be to add A/C...

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This has always been one of my favorite trucks on Ratsun. Very practical mods.

A/c would really make this a perfect dd, in my opinion.

 

But then I live in the land of "hot" .... the Central Valley.

Only place worse would possibly be Phoenix or Death Valley.

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This has always been one of my favorite trucks on Ratsun. Very practical mods.

A/c would really make this a perfect dd, in my opinion.

 

But then I live in the land of "hot" .... the Central Valley.

Only place worse would possibly be Phoenix or Death Valley.

 

 

 

Woodland Hills, CA. Not so far apart...besides - once it gets over 100 - it's kinda all the same.

 

thanks.

 

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Beautiful truck.  Keep us posted as to how you cure your fuel problem.

 

In case anyone is interested, I learned a few things on the fuel system...I installed a new Airtex fuel pump. I noticed it is the exact same pump as the Aerormotive 1109 pump. The Airtex is $64, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8445the Aeromotive one is $172 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-11109/overview/... I had an old one and dug it out to compare. In hindsight I probably should have sent the airtex pump - but for $64 I thought I'd give it a try.

 

I always thought the engine ran really rich. When I was tracing down problems I installed a fuel pressure gauge under the hood and found out the 100 psi Walbro pump was overpowering the stock fuel pressure regulator and I was getting almost 70 PSI at the injectors and it needed to be 32 at Idle and 41 at WOT (my FPR is brand new). I swapped the Walbro for for the Airtex pump which only puts out 55psi max and bingo the pressure was right within spec. The truck has never run better and when I looked up the stock 240SX pump it was rated at 55psi.

 

Airtex/Aeromotive comparo:

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  • 2 weeks later...

They are high pressure rubber lines. Out of the stock outlet of the tank thru a 20 micron Wix filter to the inlet of the pump (remounted lower than the outlet) and out of the pump. tied along the frame up to the fuel rail. Then out of the fuel pressure regulator and back down the same path to an unused vent line on top of the tank. I used the high pressure hose clamps where they attached to metal fittings.

 

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