J13 Alternator

[finney]

Hey guys, 

 

Has anyone put a larger alternator on their J13? I am unsure if the stock little one will be enough to charge my battery running  my 2 Air Zenith Comps for my bag system. At a guess i would say it won't. 

 

Finney

 

[datzenmike]

The J13 has a unique alternator with several wires coming out the back to a plug. Most newer ones are differently wired. I think it can be done it's just not plug 'n play.

[banzai510(hainz)]

some rebuilders will stick a newer alternator with a cable adapter as a upgrade when you order a alternator with that vehicle as i got soem adapters but will keep them. early datsun 521 truck had these 3 or 4 plug tyep connectors

[thisismatt]

Anything you can make fit will work, just a matter or mounting and wiring. So few people seem to be running J motors, doesn't seem like much support for them. If you can, go with an internally regulated alt and bypass the external reg

[datzenmike]

The L engine doesn't leave much room for larger diameter alt to swing adjustment without hitting the idler arm below it. J13 might be a lot better for room.

[bananahamuck]

I used a 89-93 ( out of junkyard so don't remember exact year) Nissan internally regulated alternator and it bolted almost directly in ,,,,,,,,,, you are on your own with wiring , but if i did it,  any knucklehead could figure it out ... I learned a huge amount about Nissan IR alternators from googling this site and NICO forums .

 

It works thru the charge light just like OG but eliminated the regulator wiring mess..

[Charlie69]

Hey guys, 

 

Has anyone put a larger alternator on their J13? I am unsure if the stock little one will be enough to charge my battery running  my 2 Air Zenith Comps for my bag system. At a guess i would say it won't. 

 

Finney

 No not enough horse power to run it! LOL

[datsunaholic]

My 320 when it had an E1 (which the J evolved from) had a Delco 10SI alternator on it (replacing the positive-ground generator).  The E1 and J series engines mount the generator or alternator differently than an L-series because there's no water port or fuel pump in the way (fuel pump is on the other side, though the oil filter is close).  The 10SI could be gotten up to 63Aamps, which is almost twice the original 35A Hitachi or Mitsubishi alternators, and they're internally regulated.  Didn't look like it took much work to make a lower bracket.

[finney]

I have a Toyota 1uzfe Alt spare, guess i need to see if I can change the pulley across from the stock J13 alt. If you have seen my build mounting a alt is not a problem nor is space with the tubbed engine bay. 

I was just unsure if the motor would run the 1uz alt. Motors and electrical is not my strength, although motor has been rebuild and i will rewire the whole truck. 

[Charlie69]

Finney, when I went to the L motor in my 66 520 I had clearance issues with the idler arm.  I shopped out the massive idler arm  to a later model 521/620 idler arm as it was much smaller.

[finney]

Here was a mock up photo of the 1uz alternator before the body went on.

I found some info here on swapping to a internally regulated alternator 

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Basic_Alternator_Wiring

[Charlie69]

Forgot you were right hand drive.

[finney]

:) forgot you were left hand drive, one thing i never released was the pedal assemblies are still the same sequence. Being right hand drive the brake master is closest to the wheel/rim. In the US the clutch is closest to the wheel/rim 

[Rushnracin]

Ive made a real sumple bracket and run a GM singke wire 100 amp. No extra holes. It uses existing hohes in stock mount. I made 4 extras. Im a machinest and got bord. If you want i can try to post pictures. This is not about trying to sell stuff. Just trying to help a fellow datsun owner

[XXL]

Ive made a real sumple bracket and run a GM singke wire 100 amp. No extra holes. It uses existing hohes in stock mount. I made 4 extras. Im a machinest and got bord. If you want i can try to post pictures. This is not about trying to sell stuff. Just trying to help a fellow datsun owner

 

You haven't been online for 7 months, but I'll give it a shot...

 

I'm contemplating swapping a 10si into my 520 with J13 (I actually already have the alternator headed my way... if not for this, then as a spare for another vehicle that already uses one).  A PO seems to have "fabbed" (and I use that term as loosely as is humanly possible) some brackets that simply aren't working for the stock alternator... so I have no stock brackets to work with.  I'd love to see those pics, or better yet... are you interested in making a set for me?  I'd really like this to be pretty turnkey as this is my daily driver.  I'm kind of hurting here, so timeline is important.  Thanks in advance.

[Rushnracin]

Sorry guys ive not been checking in. I now have 7 sets made. Useing 2 myself. Can also give the correct p/n for a napa belt. Text me and ill send photos. They are solid machined 7075t6 aluminum. $30.00 a set. Leave text ill call you back and send pictures 310-940-5433 Roy

[XXL]

Rushracin did send me pics of his bracket (I'll leave it to him to post them here), and it looks great.  However, he's out of pocket for the moment, so I went my own route this time, so I could get the truck up and running again.  Here's what I did...

 

After pulling the old alternator, I found the factory "triangular" pivot bracket was hacked up/broken from some PO who took some shortcuts.  While Rushracin's brackets simply replace the factory bracket (and provide proper front-to-rear spacing for a 10si), I decided to try the Nippondenso alternator mentioned further up this thread because it looks muck more 'stock' than the (chrome!!) 10si I happened to buy.

 

I removed that factory bracket and opened up the top hole in the motor mount (where that factory bracket was bolted to) to allow a 3/8" bolt.  I then created a small spacer to get the front-to-back spacing right on the alternator, and ran the mounting bolt directly into the motor mount hole.  This mounts the alternator a little bit lower than factory (or Rushracin's brackets), but the ND unit is tiny, so there weren't any clearance issues with the engine, the motor mount, or the frame.  For the top adjuster bracket, I spaced it away from the water neck slightly, again to get the front-to-rear spacing correct.  That's all that was needed to mount the alternator solidly.  For the wiring, I just reversed the terminals from the factory plug as the ND pins are "backwards"-- the leg of the "T" in the factory terminal is the voltage wire that energizes the coil.  On the ND, that terminal is the top cross of the "T."  I did a quick measurement with an old belt, ran to the local auto parts store to get a belt, and tossed it on.  Voila.  The stock 520 belt is a 15380 (that number is supposed to mean it's 38" long... but the Autozone brand belts all seemed to run 0.75" to 1" short across the board).  With the new mounting, I settled on a 15365 (because I needed about 35.75" ... see my comment immediately above about bad sizing).  It all seems to be working, and the ND alternator is small, neatly tucked away, and looks like it belongs there.

 

The end.