Osoi Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I adjusted the slave cylinder push rod at first by loosening the locking nut and decreasing the the distance the nod needed to push to achieve more movement. After looking in the master cylinder I saw I was low on fluid, then I initiated the bleed process. The pedal feels great now (It was going all the way to the floor before engaging the clutch), however it now does not engage the clutch. Do I just need to dial that adjustment rod back closer to where it was? I know I could climb under my dirty truck and just try it, but I''d rather get some opinions first. Thanks! One more piece of info before the onslaught ensues. I can put my truck in first gear, start it, and it doesn't jut forward. It's like I'm in neutral. 1 Quote Link to comment
Elkie Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Sounds like the clutch is engaged w/o pressing the pedal. Moving it back will prob fix it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Osoi Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 That's pretty much what I'm thinking. Is there a spec listed somewhere for the distance of movement or something? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Once all the air is out, the clutch needs to be adjusted. Adjust so there is about 2mm, or roughly 1/16" of looseness between the clutch arm and the pushrod. Now check that the pedal has about the same amount of slack before there is resistance. The pedal is unlikely to have changed but it can be checked. 2 Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Sounds like air was in lines before u adj rod. Causing loose push rod. Now way too long,pushing on clutch fork. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 It this thread... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/68208-521-clutch-slave-adjustmentspring-replacement/...Wayno posted how to adjust it properly. Worked like a charm. 2 Quote Link to comment
Osoi Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I love it when I come back from dinner and all my prayers are answered. Sounds like my assessment was on the right track. Thanks Mike, as always your wealth of knowledge overflowith. Kelowg, probably a good guess. But that's the problem with having no experience in these things. FlatCat, thanks for the link. Damn that Wayno and his good advice. So after reading the write up by Wayno, It looks like I can get by without the spring (which I just noticed I don't have, but do have places for), but seems to be a simple fix. However, he mentioned bleeding AFTER the adjustment. Is there any reason you couldn't bleed then adjust. The reason I ask, is I hate to have to bleed again tomorrow. 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 The lack of pressure makes it easier to adjust. You got this though. 1 Quote Link to comment
Phixius Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 You might have pushed the piston out of the slave causing it to jam and not let the clutch back out. 1 Quote Link to comment
Osoi Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 And an update... Got mechaniced out last night, saved it for this morning. Thank god I have a boss that understands, he used to own a 1970 Bronco. Anyways... Loosened and adjusted the slave piston, and the control arm... WORKS LIKE A CHARM! Now, on to more pressing matter. Dodgy fuel delivery.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Osoi Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Let me just give a shout out to WAYNO's simple descriptions on that adjustment. Couldn't have been explained better. Thanks FlatCat for pointing me in the right direction. 3 Quote Link to comment
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