poopypants720 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Why would the adapter plates be different between the z22 kits and the z24 kits? The linkage too for that matter? Wasn't the IM the same for both engines? My IM is marked W88, which kit should I really get? Hood clearance shouldn't be an issue either way, I have a body lift. Looking at the 662-38 and 646-38 kits which are of course for the 38DGES. Have headers and mainly only drive off-road with this vehicle and want better low end pedal response and don't care about mileage. I also have a 32/34DFT9a that I could use for smog and mileage/traveling applications, so I'm not concerned about getting a 32/36DGEV in the least... Regardless the kit for the 32/36 has the same bass plates/adapters and linkages, so why is there a difference between engines? Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Get the one specific to whichever motor you have, the carb bolt holes are slightly different between the two manifolds, the adapter makes them the same for the Weber. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Also I had a 32/34 on mine for about a week, it makes these trucks gutless as all hell. In my opinion you should keep the stock carb instead of the 32/34. These engines do really well with the 32/36 and can even handle the 38/38 pretty well. 2 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 I don't know about that... My 32/34 has been able to tune to be quite peppy on a fresh rebuild with custom exhaust/headers... Maybe yours wasn't jetted right... But I got the truck from the po with the weber on it, and is the only smog legal replacement for the stock carb in California, so I'm keeping it for those purposes only and going with the 38DGES for my off road activities.... Thanks for the heads up on the bolt patterns, I could have sworn they were the same across all z motors... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Also I had a 32/34 on mine for about a week, it makes these trucks gutless as all hell. In my opinion you should keep the stock carb instead of the 32/34. These engines do really well with the 32/36 and can even handle the 38/38 pretty well. The 32/34 is (or was) a smog legal swap in California so that says something. The stock carb will always give the best mileage drive ability and lowest emissions. Generally the Z24 carb is considered slightly small for the engine size. The 32/36 is good for a Z22 or Z24 and is a nice restrained upgrade in performance. The 38/38 is a V6 and small V8 carb and slightly large for the Z24. Good performance but at the expense of mileage/drive ability. The Z22 intake/head has round ports, the Z24 intake/head has square ports with rounded corners. They will interchange but use the Z22 intake gasket with Z24 intake. Heads upside down Z24 on top Z22 below it. Other than the intake ports I could find no other differences. (well other than the hole for the mechanical fuel pump) Combustion chambers are to the top. Notice how low the intake is? Can you imagine how sharp the bend is at the valve? This bend is the main reason the Z heads do not breathe well at RPS much above 4K. Here is an L head for comparison. (remember the Z heads are upside down) See how much higher the intake port is? How the air falls down hill into the valve seat? .... but I digress..... 3 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 The 32/34 was for a bored 2.0 vw of some sort, so the jets may have been smaller, it was still peppy, just nothing compared to a 32/36 or 38. What kind of offroading will you be doing? The 38 is known to bog at lower rpms or going up inclines from a stop, so the 32/36 may be your best bet. I lived in Portland when I had my first 720 and I kept a stock carb around so I could throw it on and pass emissions, then back on with the 32/36 until the tags expired again. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Generally the smaller the carb the better it will run. By better I mean throttle response and ease of use, what I like to call drive-ability. No nursing the gas, revving and slipping the clutch, smooth and docile. What it will lack is all out power and high speed performance. Smaller means the air is flowing faster through it making better vacuum at the venturi so it draws in the fuel easier and at lower speeds. This is why 2 barrels or 4 barrels instead of one large one. Small primary (or primaries) and larger secondary (or secondaries) so that as the engine speeds up and can suck more air, more carb is added. Hence the phrase 'never never never over carb your engine'. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Funny... I know plenty of guys using a 38 for wheeling and enjoy what it offers... I'm not doing any major rock crawling or racing hill climbs. Just trail driving, some inclines, rutted trails, sand and small rock surfaced trails... If it does wind up being a bad match for everything else in my setup, I'll just sell the 38 and pick up a 32/36... I got the 38 off a website that had an apparent pricing error(the 38 was listed $20 cheaper than the 32/36 when it's usually $50 more for that redline kit) plus I had a 20% off coupon for the purchase and got free shipping cause it was over $50... Stole it at $224 +$20 for tax cause I'm in the same state(ca) as the online store location... So I'll have NO problem making my money back, maybe even a profit... My only thing is, I live at 2500 and much of my local wheeling is 3500 plus... Do you guys think I'll need a high altitude jet kit for either setup? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 The 38 in my "Garbage scow" has made it a lot more fun to drive- sort of backwards for my garbage hauling truck. It does have far worse gas mileage than the 34DGAS it replaced, but it is far more driveable. Doesn't feel like I'm dragging an anchor. But it ate the dogleg pretty fast. The big difference is that if I need to change lanes and accelerate on the freeway, it DOES it. Just have to be careful if its wet because it will break the rear tires loose, which it didn't do with the 34 or the Hitachi before that. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 The 38 in my "Garbage scow" has made it a lot more fun to drive- sort of backwards for my garbage hauling truck. It does have far worse gas mileage than the 34DGAS it replaced, but it is far more driveable. Doesn't feel like I'm dragging an anchor. But it ate the dogleg pretty fast. The big difference is that if I need to change lanes and accelerate on the freeway, it DOES it. Just have to be careful if its wet because it will break the rear tires loose, which it didn't do with the 34 or the Hitachi before that. is this in an otherwise stock 720? Z or L series motor? 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 It's an L20B. Cam might be a little different, otherwise stock (it's in a 620) 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Did you get your 38 in the redline kit? I noticed it's actually the same kit number for the L series motor as it is for the Z22, again, guessing the intake bolt patterns are a match... But I'm curious if you know how it's jetted as it comes in the kit? I can see the tops of the air correction jets only as assembled and they are already down to 170, which is below the 180 listed as baseline for the model, and well below what rejetting kits come with (190, 200, 210 in both the performance kit AND the high altitude kit)... So without pulling apart the upper housing and possibly compromising the gasket, choke and float before I even have the carb installed the first time, I thought I'd ask if you know what the fuel jets are set at in this kit? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 These are my Weber suppliers for decades Peirce Manifolds. Watch their videos and subscribe to their You Tube Channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/piercemanifolds Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 called pierce, they don't have any notes on the 662-38... Just the 662 which is the 32/36... Of course. Looks like I'll be pulling the top n making down all the jet and emulsion tube numbers... Then I'll post it here in a new thread and on 720world and the 720 Facebook page, in case anyone else wind up having questions... When I tune it, I'll prob add my tuning notes too if I make any jetting adjustments. 1 Quote Link to comment
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