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Does anyone have a tachometer taken apart/cracked open?


heywier427

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I would like to know what stops the tach at 8k.

 

Is it a little pin that can be moved, or is it something more not so easily modified.

 

My rev limiter on my rotary is 9600 on trailing and 9800 on leading, and do not want an after market tach.

 

I rigged up my shift light to come on at 9200 and it lights up the parking brake light.

 

Its not really a big deal, but if I can simply bend a tab out of the way, that would be worth while.

 

Thanks.

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Thank you for your concern.

 

Its exactly the reason I am not dissembling mine without further understanding it.

 

I know the older members have either, a: taken apart and fixed tachs before. b: have a broken one laying around.

 

So Im hoping the answer is readily available.

 

I had mine apart when I swapped faceplates, and am confident in my abilities to tinker with delicate stuff.

 

I just put the car/interior back together, and I really dont feel like digging back in if its not simple :)

 

Anyone else?

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Yeah, I saw that while searching for tach pictures on the google.

 

Not enough to make decisions on. I dont know why I didnt think of checking this when I wired in the shift light.

 

I'll give this thread a day or so, then dive on in!

 

Really want to get my front bumper prepped/painted installed this weekend.

 

We'll see how fast the paint decides to dry :)

 

Thanks.

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The ebrake light still functions as normal.

 

I simply tapped the wires into the shift light wires.

 

Use the oil light instead huh...

 

So when shifting at 9500k, I want my oil light to come on... talk about making someone shit bricks!!!!

 

Thats a very dumb idea.

 

I was going to use the charge light, but I was worried about sending a signal through it while the car was running and charging. May do something funky to the regulator.

 

The ebrake is top and center and has been replaced by a super bright led. I left the standard bulbs in the other dummy lights so the led purposely yells out at me, SHIFT ASSH0LE, SHIFT!!!!!

 

ratfink_600x337.jpg

 

:)

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post up a picture of a clean/acceptable way to mount it, in plain sight.

 

Acceptable to an anal perfectionist :)

 

Taping in to a 12v light bulb, with a 12v signal for a fraction of a second does not compromise anything. I dont even know how you can write that.

 

You cray cray.

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I am not some glue sniffing wacko hacking away at my stock wiring.

 

Go through some of my posts and look at the quality of my work.

 

It is all professionally done, as I am a professional, with my own shop.

 

Im going to check on my paint :)

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Seriously KOH, how does tapping one signal wire to one light "compromise a circuit". Even if there was a wierd reversion in the wiring, a single diode would fix it.

 

Using an existing light is clever, and even if he just cut it clean, oh no he's lost his ebrake light.....

 

Heywier took it fine, you seem to be the one having an issue with the whole thing

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I used the wrong word, yes compromise wasn't right since there's nothing that can be harmed...so I guess the word should've been....not conflict either.....Damnit.....not sure what word could replace that...., what I ment is he should leave the light for its original purpose and simply add one for his shifting pleasure...

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That is just way to fuction>form for my anal ass!

 

But thats why my customers love me.

 

I always go for whats called OEM+, or steath, sleeper, ect...

 

This car is way too nice, and Im making it more of an abuseable show car if that makes sense.

 

My interior thus far:

 

20165706309_d19a8a2f72_b.jpgIMG_1239[1] by thomas telesco, on Flickr

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Yes.  All gauges and lights work as they should.

 

Boost gauge is used for vacuum, as boost has not come yet :)

 

But it will!  Oh it will :)

 

From left to righ, top to bottom:

 

Water temp, oil pres, oil temp, 

 

 Volts, egt, boost, afr.

 

Egt is because the extreme heat of the rotary + turbo.  Normal egt's of 1400-2000 deg. !!

 

Just getting ready for the future :)

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