poopypants720 Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Thanks for the advice... I'm reassembling today... Mainly took so long because I've be meticulous about getting all my surfaces as clean as possible and I only have an hour or so a day to work on it. I have my son on the weekends and it's family time unless I want to incur the wrath of my wife like I did for the tear down, LoL.... Don't want to go over that again. I can take my time. I'll def be lubing up everything... I didn't disassemble the cam and rocker assembles and made sure no cleaner or degreaser got onto the top, so do you guys think the existing surface oil is good up there and won't need disassembly? Or should I take out the cam and grease the bearing surfaces? Would prefer to not have to adjust all the rockers again if I can avoid it... Finally had them in spec and quiet before the head blew Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 I just pour oil over the rockers before startup if really worried about it. Felpro head and intake/exhaust(blows out the bottom) gaskets are not the best but widely avail(plus they are cheap$$$$. the front cover gaskets are fine. Best is the Nissan metal gaskets if you can still get them. Baz(Datsport) in Australia or all parts stores down there sell the Durapro head gaskets in Graphite and composite.They are made in Japan so I don't know why we don't get them here. The graphite is almost like the Nissan ones if not the same and come in 87mm also so it don't run inside a L18/20 the bores are really close the the metal gasket 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Do all the ports on those line up right for the water jackets and oil galleys? 87 is exactly what I'd need n if this one goes, I'll be spending the bucks to get a high end one next time(this was mid range on rockauto price wise)... I thought it was crazy how many holes there are in the head anyways that don't even have corresponding block ports! What's up with that? Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Oh, n I'm changing all fluids with this too, so after torquing down the head bolts, I planned on filling my oil right over open rocker assembly... So good to know I'm not going to have to pull it apart at all... Shouldn't be any wear to check on with how little it's been driven since the rebuild, so happy to avoid another step for now. Quick question maybe some of you would know... Would an rv cam grind be likely to throw off my emissions if everything else was intact? Considering most of my driving will be low to mid rpm wheeling, I'd like to capitalize on a better power band that I think would take better advantage of my carb too.... But still have to be able to pass smog every two years and would rather just swap a carb, not a carb AND a cam(with rocker adjustments etc) to make it happen. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Forget an RV cam, the best cam for 4 wheeling unless you are always at high RPMs is the stock cam, stock cams have the most torque/grunt. 2 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 hopefull the Timming wedge is deep enough to push the tensioner in otherwise if pop out your gonna be fucked!!!!!! just by looking at it i dont think thast handle is that long to push the tensioner in. Now if you pull that handle out NOW your really fucked. good luck. oh and that timing chain cover will have to come off....tensioner has popped out.Well.... The tensioner was DEFINITELY compressed when I first used the screwdriver, but it was just from chain tension alone, the screwdriver wasn't far enough down... Yesterday when I put the head back on, I look down into the timing cover and now both sides of the chain are touching under the screw driver... Tried to make a last ditch effort with a wedge to push it back in, but I only gained a single link of slack and I needed about 3 to get the cam sprocket into place... So it's either out so far I'm just pushing it around, or it's lost a link to the crankshaft and is kinked... So I pulled the distributer and radiator(and hood cause I was working under a light that was blocked) and called it a night... Will have to drop the front differentials cross member tomorrow(do I have to jack up the front if already a 4x4 with room to work?) And pull the oil pump... First time pulling the pump and timing cover for me, so if I can get a few pointers on what to expect and need for reassembly? Oil pump will slide out as a single unit, right? Do I HAVE TO take the water pump off the timing cover or can it just stay there?And I know I'll need a puller for the front pully... Timing gasket? Front seal for the crank pulley? What do I need once this is going back together? AND I don't think my timing chain has any "bright" or "dark" links... It's an aftermarket chain, so how do I align both the crank and cam marks? My cam was self marked when I disassembled. But that won't help me if I pop the timing cover and it's not wrapped right on the crank. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 That 8$ wedge is not so expensive anymore set head to TDC with cam Then set bottom end on TDC and install chain ect/ loosely pyt from cover on then ck the timming marks watch my vid on vemio.com then 2nd page Hainz to get a idea. I cant post link from this computer for some reason Now you have to get the crank bolt off!!!!!! Why you got to lower lower the diff x memeber????????? might as well get a new chain and tensioner and slack side guide 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 I'm with hainz, why drop crossmember? Unless you are pulling the entire engine now, that won't help anything. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 well Im not a 4x4 guy so Im not there but think it would be ezer to do this. before you pulled the cam off you could have used a inkpen mark on the chain at tleast for the top. new jap made chain might have the brite links. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Isn't the oil pump like a foot long? There is a cross member holding up the front differential on an 81 4x4 that is only inches right below the oil pump, I had to use a mini socket set just to get the lower two bolts brook loose didn't pull yet when I read about the cross member and saw for myself the tight fit)... Again... Never pulled an oil pump n timing cover before... So I'm just going of what the haynes manual says for instructions. Not too worried about the crank... I have a huge breaker bar, no radiator, n will just 5th gear the transmission n block the tires... well Im not a 4x4 guy so Im not there but think it would be ezer to do this. before you pulled the cam off you could have used a inkpen mark on the chain at tleast for the top. new jap made chain might have the brite links. I did shape a Lin and drew a Lin line over the front of the sprocket... The cam is marked... Just don't know bout the crank n how tight the chain should be... Think I should really get a new chain even though everything was rebuilt less than 10k miles ago? Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 What about the reassembly? What should I have, gaskets? Sealant? What about the water pump, can't it stay attached to the timing cover?(haynes says to pull it?) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 No you don't need a new chain. watch the vid first before you go another 5 steps backwards. Its not a foot long, the oil spindle might be. I cant believe Datzenmike isn't on this.Hes more 4x4 720 guy the oil pump to pullright out. But I don't know the 4x4s. On 521 and 510 it comes out in 2 pcs. yes gaskets and sealant. Black Permatex would work fine. Water pump can stay attached if you like. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 It's two piece on the 4x4 also. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Oil pump only slides into front cover a couple inches. There is an intermediate shaft between it and the dist. It should slide out without dropping anything. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Just went for it and found this out... Thank goodness... Hayes also says duo the oil pan.... Oh n to do that? Gotta unholy the tabby and engine from the mounts snd lift the engine a few inches! Frikin A! Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 If you drop the diff completely, you could do the oil pan gasket in the truck, most likely. It would suck, but likely be doable. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 So now I'm trying to align my chain without any bright links and since the timing cover is now off, I have no timing marks and no tdc reference other than what it says in the manual... The wooruff key should be pointing "up" Well thanks for that piece of knowledge BUT when you look at the frikin engine it's at an angle! So should it be perpendicular to the floor or the frikin bottom of the engine? Sticking my crank pulley back into my timing cover and looking at the timing mask that way makes it look like the jet should be 90° to the bottom of the timing cover, and 90° to the bottom of the floor will put me at about 10° btdc. So I'm thinking point the key so it's shooting straight up, the same as the chain guide(not slack side) and wrap it do there's zero slack on that side? My cam is still tdc and the timing marks on the chain are still in tact, so now I guess it's just getting the crank to tdc and wrapping the chain tight on the right side? What if I'm offset being tight? Timing mark up to is being a front facing link and timing mask at bottom is behind a hidden link? Cause that's where I'm at now... Should there be just enough slack in the right side of the chain to allow both marks on outward facing links? Sucks having a chain that's not marked. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Sorry to hear that chain wedge didn't hold up, good side is now you get to put all new seals and get a close look at everything inside the timing cover, inspect your water pump while you have it out too, yes more work but the upside is you replace all your seals and eyeball the water and oil pumps :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I just finished cleaning all the old gaskets off n degreasing all the pieces. The water pump was nice and shiny inside still, despite being one of those crappy stamped steel impeller type. Just eating then putting it all back together... Also slid the cover back into place and barely sat the pulley in place to check the timing was in fact good to go on the crank... Will be so glad once this is all back together and running again. 2 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 ok. She turned over n ran... But kinda lopey... Hit it with the timing light and it was about 15° retarded... Too much to correct with the dizzy. Could only bring it to zero, were it started running better, but of course, still not great. Sooooo I think when I tightened the cam bolt, I turned the cam and chain past tdc... Well I then installed the oil pump shaft with it set so the dizzy was tdc(or rather wether it was just past#1 when I pulled it)... Except now of course that offset me retard... So two questions... The dizzy shaft can just be pulled and adjusted tooth by tooth, right? Also, now that it's been resembled and filled with oil and turned over... How much oil can I expect to lose if I pull the oil pump? Should I just drain it with a funnel back into the oil container, or will most of it be in the pan anyways and as much as comes out the pump, comes out the pump? Thanks for the help/confirmation ahead of time guys. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 ok. She turned over n ran... But kinda lopey... Hit it with the timing light and it was about 15° retarded... Too much to correct with the dizzy. Could only bring it to zero, were it started running better, but of course, still not great. Sooooo I think when I tightened the cam bolt, I turned the cam and chain past tdc... Well I then installed the oil pump shaft with it set so the dizzy was tdc(or rather wether it was just past#1 when I pulled it)... Except now of course that offset me retard... So two questions... The dizzy shaft can just be pulled and adjusted tooth by tooth, right? Also, now that it's been resembled and filled with oil and turned over... How much oil can I expect to lose if I pull the oil pump? Should I just drain it with a funnel back into the oil container, or will most of it be in the pan anyways and as much as comes out the pump, comes out the pump? Thanks for the help/confirmation ahead of time guys. Yes you can adjust one tooth at a time. It has marks on it to you can align it correctly when installing it. If you pull the pump.. you won't lose much oil. Have a pan or cardboard on the ground and you should be fine. The oil isn't up that high. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 The pump will be full or should have been filled before installation to help it suck up more from the pan. I would say up to 1/4 cup usually less, but it will drip so have a rag under it. First set the engine to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. This is vital. Unbolt the distributor (two 10mm bolts) from the timing cover. (this will not affect the timing setting) Drop the oil pump, the drive spindle will likely drop out too. Set the drive spindle in the pump in this position... When installed, the top of the spindle should be in this position... if not re position it until it does. Notice that there is a large and small half moon that prevents the distributor from going in 180 out. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 the cam and crank may move but just move it back to TDC on crank then install the oil pump. dont go by the dist timming for TDC. everything is based on the crank Zero deg and you set everything else to that. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I used that "11:30" reference when installing it the first time... Totally not taking into account that the can moved when installing the nut... I'll move it back to crank tdc pull the dizzy and oil pump and realign. Thanks guys. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I loosen the crank bolt and the cam sprocket then set to TDC. From then on nothing must move. I even slip out of gear so leaning on the fender doesn't move the vehicle. 1 Quote Link to comment
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