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280Z oil pump part#?


distributorguy

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I know the 81-83 280ZX turbo has a higher output oil pump with .200" long pump gears, so I ordered one.  What I received is the standard pump.  Dammit.  Does anyone know who makes the "good pump" and what part number its sold under?  The Google isn't helping.  The Hitachi pump I have is "not it" and the NOS 1980 L20b pump, which should be the good one, well it isn't.  They seem a bit elusive and vendors are pawning off the normal 4 cylinder pumps to those in real need for the extra volume.    

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Any KA24E from the 240sx (but NOT the KA24DE)

 

Any KA24E or KA24DE from the D-21 Hardbody trucks will work

 

These all have the high volume output. I've compared the internal rotors an they are 13% longer. I'll get you the numbers when I get home. Always check this as I bet there are a few out there that paid for a high volume and just got the regular 'one size fits all' pump,

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Found it - thanks!    Yes they have a 40mm gear set inside instead of 35mm.  Mellings M111.  Definitely not Hitachi OUP0022 which I found listed for the 280ZX turbo.  I love Amazon.  The other interesting thing is that its the only cast iron oil pump for these motors.  Durable, and less thermal expansion issues.  Clearances should stay .002-.003" more precise at any temp.  

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It's pumps oil, doesn't matter what it's made of. At 8K it will make pressure at what ever the relief spring is set to.

The 280zx TURBO automatic with oil cooler had them. #15010-S8000 I don't think the 5 speed turbo cars had them so this is why they gave you the wrong pump. Haven't taken one of these apart so don't know about the insides. What I do know is the KA24E engine pumps have longer rotors inside. All my engines get one from a KA.

 

 

The KA24E in the S13 240sx and the Hardbody truck (and the later KA24DE Hardbody engine) used the high volume pump. #15010-40F00

 

IMG_0186.jpg

 

 

Only way to know without taking apart is look down into the inlet port. This is a regular oil pump and the rotors are well down inside the cavity...

motorHi-volumeoilpump1Lg.jpg

 

This is a high volume pump with the longer internal rotors. You can easily see that the trochoid rotor is visible and above the port opening....

motorHi-volumeoilpump2Lg.jpg

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To close up the clearences for max efficiancy.

By coating, the fit between the gears & housing are tighter, and the coating is soft enough to allow the gears to seat into any points that are too tight as the gears deflect at running pressure.

 

The L-series pumps, unlike the pump shown, are a geroter style, and basicly don't deflect as much, but they have their own issues, like the outer part galling in it's bore, even though it's has oil running through it. Just look at the problems that the RB series engines have at high rpm. Those guys spend hundreds for up-graded oil pumps that won't fail.

A moly surface helps eliminate that.

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But RB pumps fail from oil starvation that should be rectified by allowing better oil return and less top end oiling.  There's no excuse for running a pump dry other than poor race prep.  Larger, gated oil pans help too.  Then again, you're talking to a guy with a Teflon coated crank to reduce drag from windage.  I'll spend my money elsewhere.  

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So galling, which could be caused from an additional coating, or too tight of clearances, too brittle of a material, oil aeration, or debris... most likely debris or aeration, right?  But that was in an RB, not an L.  Different construction.  I'm more familiar with MGs, where the oil pump drive gear fails at the cam due to lack of lube at high rpm.  Gerotor pumps generally fail from debris destroying clearances.  I run my pump components through a mass finishing machine to knock down the sharp edges and build surface strength (almost REM.)  I always assume plating will flake and try to pre-determine what issues that will cause and whether its worth the effort.  As far as contaminants go, you deal with that any way possible.  If I cause a failure and we blow up at Bonneville or the Ohio Mile, you'll see photos here proving you're right!!!  :thumbup:

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The L,Z and KA series use a trochoid rotor arrangement and are trouble free for stock and street use. Exotic coatings, tighter clearances and porting the in and out openings isn't going to provide more oil to the engine.The pump maxes out at a couple of thousand RPMs and the relief valve dumps the rest back into the inlet. Rev it higher and the relief valve just returns the extra right back to the inlet. Engines don't need more oil at 8K than that at 2K. The oil that bleeds past the bearings, valve train and oil jets remains relatively constant no matter the RPMs. So once the 60/70/80 PSI is reached depending on the relief valve setting, the rest just never gets used.

 

High volume pumps don't oil an engine better but they do raise the idle and lower RPM pressure. They can also compensate for the extra use of a spray bar and oil for a turbo. My hot idle oil pressure was 17 PSI on my tired L20B. With only a used KA pump it jumped to 29 PSI. Max pressure was the same of course.

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The rpm issue is getting the oil back into the pan, preventing the pump from sucking air.  Think about the speed of the reciprocating assembly and how oil drainback is facilitated.  Higher volumes of oil can stay suspended in the block when the turbulence prevents it from draining into the pan quickly.  

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Are there not metal shields that strip the oil from the air and allow it to drip back into the pan? Can't remember the term.

 

My 340 Dart had a windage? tray that bolted to the engine main caps and was slung under the spinning crank. It was to prevent pan oil from sloshing up onto the spinning crank and slowing it and throwing oil all over the cylinder walls.

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Banzai, you're right.  Most folks don't need any of this info.  

 

There are windage plates that prevent oil from sloshing in the pan.  There are plates in the block that prevent oil from splashing into holes where it does not belong.  There is no "express highway" for oil to get through the block and back into the oil pan.  I did make a crank scraper yesterday that will wick oil away from the crank and prevent oil from being lifted back into the bottoms of the cylinders.  That also hinders oil return to the pan, but not too bad if well designed.  Top end oiling returns through one small return passage at the back of the head which flows into the RR corner of the oil pan, and the rest drains over the timing chain assembly to the front of the oil pan.  I'm contemplating installing a shield at the rear drain to stop it from splashing on the crank weights.  We'll see if I can find ample wall thickness to tap a couple holes.  

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Please post pictures of your crank scraper.

My block is due back today from getting bored (latest promise).

Not having another spare block here, all I have been able to do is look at pictures, and plan things in my head,

This is a bad thing to do, as I used to race AMA flat track, and fell on my head a quite few times,

not to mention getting absolutely tanked after every race.......

Oh, to be young & foolish !

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Right now its rough, and not notched for the rods, as the new pin bushings are out being honed.  I made a plate (thin) to mount at the oil pan gasket since the mains are all strapped and WAY too far away to bolt down a scraper like the ones you see online.  I'll post pics when I get the rods installed and make it look like something.  I still need to cut drain slots in it too.  Ughhh.  And back I go to porting a set of Chinese Chevy heads...

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