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L20b timing


Guest 77ratsun

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I'm in mt vernon

 

And when I start it up it has a really loud vacuum line and it idles really high

Jonah is in Mt vernon, Ericjb and I are in sedro, rjawm is off of cook and tubbedbaggedstockfloored (I think it's something like that) is up by the skagit casino somewhere. Ericjb doesn't seem to get on here much. I don't know if Jonas is a ratsun member or not, I'm currently at work. Don't know what rjawm and tubbedbaggedstockfloored are doing right now. There are locals near you, just gotta find a way to fit into their schedules to try to get some help
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1342 is about all you'll find anywhere for a 4 cylinder, but some engine run CW, others CCW.  You can tell which way the distributor spins by turning the rotor.  The directions it turns under spring pressure (by moving the mechanical advance) is the direction it spins.  It should snap back to its static position under spring pressure.  

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Guest 77ratsun

Turn out that the guy that owned the truck before me replaced the distributor but he had no idea what he was doing so I'm just going to get a new distributor.

 

What distributor do you guys recommend for an l20b preferably with an electronic ignition or pertronix ignitor

 

And how do I post pictures from my phone?

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Every combination.  The only time a CDI box shows an advantage is if the fuel mixture is too rich and if there are more than 50 cubic inch cylinder volumes.

Factory and aftermarket electronic ignitions all have quirks - most notably stealing power from the LT side of the coil, resulting in lower HT power output.  1V on the LT side = 1000-1500V (or more) on the HT side.  Your truck would typically run at 12kV if everything was set up right.  Add a bad plug wire and you're at 16kV.  Add a pertronix and you get the same thing due to bad phasing (not adjustable).  Then there are the misfire issues associated with different types of electronic triggers placed near high voltage wires...  RFI and EMI induced issues.  Points are clean and simple enough that I plan to use them at Bonneville and the Ohio Mile this year.  

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For street applications the Nissan EI system is far superior to points in every way. They are basically set em' and forget em'. Points vary timing and dwell with time used (wear) they also don't have the higher output, need maintenance (filing adjustment and replacing regularly) 

 

After market crap MSG Pertronix.... you're on your own.

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Mike, I hate to stand my ground, but the Hitachi single point distributors are superior to the electronic version in every way imaginable in terms of how they propagate spark and perform on the street and on the track, with about 10 minutes maintenance a year.  If you need higher output, you have a problem that should be addressed, such as bad plug wires or corroded cap terminals or fouled plugs.  

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Fine with me there will be more EI distributors around for me then.  :lol: 

 

Doesn't make sense that Nissan would switch all distributors to the EI, as well as all other makers, if it was less than what points will do. I don't need higher output, I just have higher output stock on my 78. What's good for it is good for the earlier engines too.... and zero maintenance a year.  

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ALL distributors points and EI can sometimes benefit from re curving the mechanical advance. That and vacuum advance are tailored for low emissions and good mileage.... not so much performance. Racing is not the same as street. When racing you can do some things that don't benefit a DD.    

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