hobospyder Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I'm in mt vernon And when I start it up it has a really loud vacuum line and it idles really high Jonah is in Mt vernon, Ericjb and I are in sedro, rjawm is off of cook and tubbedbaggedstockfloored (I think it's something like that) is up by the skagit casino somewhere. Ericjb doesn't seem to get on here much. I don't know if Jonas is a ratsun member or not, I'm currently at work. Don't know what rjawm and tubbedbaggedstockfloored are doing right now. There are locals near you, just gotta find a way to fit into their schedules to try to get some help Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 And I'm sure there are more of us up there but those are the only ones I know right now. Everybody else I know are down in everett/marysville area Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Look up Bradley Restorations in Mt. Vernon. He's more of an MG guy, but Andy is a great mechanic and could probably have you running smooth in less than an hour. 1 Quote Link to comment
Guest 77ratsun Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hobospyder yes I know Jonah he has helped me with it a little bit Quote Link to comment
Guest 77ratsun Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I'm going to do exactly what you guys are telling me I was just making sure that the firing order I have setup is right because I've seen a few different ones on the internet Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hobospyder yes I know Jonah he has helped me with it a little bit was just giving ideas for locals that could help since I'm in the area and flat cat suggested it. I really don't know much so I have to point to other people that know a lot more than I do Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Almost no one uses a different firing order than 1342. It's universally the most sensible and common. 1 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 1342 is about all you'll find anywhere for a 4 cylinder, but some engine run CW, others CCW. You can tell which way the distributor spins by turning the rotor. The directions it turns under spring pressure (by moving the mechanical advance) is the direction it spins. It should snap back to its static position under spring pressure. Quote Link to comment
Guest 77ratsun Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Turn out that the guy that owned the truck before me replaced the distributor but he had no idea what he was doing so I'm just going to get a new distributor. What distributor do you guys recommend for an l20b preferably with an electronic ignition or pertronix ignitor And how do I post pictures from my phone? Quote Link to comment
Guest 77ratsun Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Turns out the choke wasn't stuck and when the truck warms up the flap open Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 If that's a new distributor, just install it properly and move on. Quote Link to comment
Guest 77ratsun Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 How do I intall it properly lol the retard before me installed it but ive taken it out a few times I'm planning on getting a new one with an electronic ignition Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 fast forward to this but maybe watch the whole thing put motor on TDC zero on crank vemio.com has my vid put in Hainz and its on 2nd page how come you don't go on olddatsuns.com on the tech section has everything on there also 1 Quote Link to comment
Guest 77ratsun Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I have been going on to oldDatsuns.come Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 If you have a points distributor use it. It'll run better than electronics. I rebuild 1500 distributors a year and points always work better on the dyno than electronics. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Now I understand your screen name :) 1500, dang....... Is that stock electronics vs. points & stock coil, or electronics w/ CDI box & hot coil, vs. points w/ any coil ? Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Every combination. The only time a CDI box shows an advantage is if the fuel mixture is too rich and if there are more than 50 cubic inch cylinder volumes. Factory and aftermarket electronic ignitions all have quirks - most notably stealing power from the LT side of the coil, resulting in lower HT power output. 1V on the LT side = 1000-1500V (or more) on the HT side. Your truck would typically run at 12kV if everything was set up right. Add a bad plug wire and you're at 16kV. Add a pertronix and you get the same thing due to bad phasing (not adjustable). Then there are the misfire issues associated with different types of electronic triggers placed near high voltage wires... RFI and EMI induced issues. Points are clean and simple enough that I plan to use them at Bonneville and the Ohio Mile this year. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 For street applications the Nissan EI system is far superior to points in every way. They are basically set em' and forget em'. Points vary timing and dwell with time used (wear) they also don't have the higher output, need maintenance (filing adjustment and replacing regularly) After market crap MSG Pertronix.... you're on your own. 1 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Mike, I hate to stand my ground, but the Hitachi single point distributors are superior to the electronic version in every way imaginable in terms of how they propagate spark and perform on the street and on the track, with about 10 minutes maintenance a year. If you need higher output, you have a problem that should be addressed, such as bad plug wires or corroded cap terminals or fouled plugs. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Fine with me there will be more EI distributors around for me then. :lol: Doesn't make sense that Nissan would switch all distributors to the EI, as well as all other makers, if it was less than what points will do. I don't need higher output, I just have higher output stock on my 78. What's good for it is good for the earlier engines too.... and zero maintenance a year. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 According to Z therapy El Dizzy's need to be re-curved for performance. Something like that... Steve was explaining it to me and my head exploded. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 ALL distributors points and EI can sometimes benefit from re curving the mechanical advance. That and vacuum advance are tailored for low emissions and good mileage.... not so much performance. Racing is not the same as street. When racing you can do some things that don't benefit a DD. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 I like the crisp bright blue spark I get with my current El Dizzy setup compared to my former points dizzy with dull orange spark, the difference in performance is noticeable from startup to acceleration... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 The EI is better for increased EGR and lean burn running. Well, strictly from an emissions standpoint. The NAPA system furthered this with dual plugs. Quote Link to comment
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