mattyhacks71 Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Just thought I'd make a cheeky thread because it wasn't blatantly obvious what to do. Looking to put in an auto meter gauge set up (Water temp, oil pressure, voltage) in my 510 w. L16. Where did you guys put the fittings for the water temp sender and the oil pressure hose? Originally I though I'd put the water temp. either where the factory sender is, or where the fitting for the bypass use to be (has been deleted cause canon intake), but the fitting for the gauge is huge! Also I have no idea where to put the oil pressure hose fitting. Any input is great! Cheers Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 The by pass on the thermostat housing should always be left in working order. Use the hole the original temp sender was in. Oil pressure sender can use the oil sender hole in the block. You'll need a 1/8" BPT to 1/8" NPTF adapter The problem with a gauge is no red low pressure light. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 That's where having the L20B thermostat housing comes in handy. They had a vacuum switch for the EGR going out sideways, and it's almost the exact right size for an aftermarket gauge sender. I had those on several 620s, worked pretty slick. And the stock gauge was still hooked up, and the bypass. But L16 housings won't have that (some did have a port for the dual-points cutoff, but it was smaller than the vacuum thermal switch) 2 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Oil pressure sender can use the oil sender hole in the block. You'll need a 1/8" BPT to 1/8" NPTF adapter The problem with a gauge is no red low pressure light. Perfect, thanks Mike That's where having the L20B thermostat housing comes in handy. They had a vacuum switch for the EGR going out sideways, and it's almost the exact right size for an aftermarket gauge sender. I had those on several 620s, worked pretty slick. And the stock gauge was still hooked up, and the bypass. But L16 housings won't have that (some did have a port for the dual-points cutoff, but it was smaller than the vacuum thermal switch) Oh shit I think I have one of those. Someone gave me a cast iron upper housing with a threaded hole in it. I'll give that a shot for sure. Awesome, thanks for the ideas guys. Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 The way my dad did it is using a brass Tee behind the oil pressure gauge, with an oil pressure sender there. It's a two prong sender. I'm guessing here, but the light has power from the ON position from the key, and the pressure switch is a mechanical ground...? Below (15psi) switch is closed and grounded. At pressure, the switch opens ground. I would imagine many psi options are available. I wired it to this Autometer light... because I had it, and it's hard to miss while focusing on your spirited drive. It has a cap to block most of the light at night... that sucker is bright! ...and because racecar 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 On our race boats, our oil pressure warning light is an aircraft port running light (wingtip light). Yeah, they're bright. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 The by pass on the thermostat housing should always be left in working order. Use the hole the original temp sender was in. Oil pressure sender can use the oil sender hole in the block. You'll need a 1/8" BPT to 1/8" NPTF adapter The problem with a gauge is no red low pressure light. Went to Lordco to get one of the adapters. Had to order it in. Planning to use a T piece off of it, and getting a oil pressure switch thats 1/8 Npt so I can retain the light. 18 PSI would do right? Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Don't stock pumps idle around 12psi? That would mean the light would come on at idle.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Don't stock pumps idle around 12psi? That would mean the light would come on at idle.. Or Less Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Most oil pressure gauges I have seen are plumbed with 1/8 or smaller pipe, or tube. This small of a tube slows down the response of the gauge. If the oil pressure gauge is plumbed correctly, it should respond as quick as the tachometer, because that is how quick the actual oil pressure does change. Quote Link to comment
RJRACIN240 Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Plumbed mine with -4 steel braided line, piece of cake and very responsive 1 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Don't stock pumps idle around 12psi? That would mean the light would come on at idle.. I don't know thats why I asked lol Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Mine is plumbed with -4 steel braided teflon hose. Straight off the block, through a bulkhead on the firewall. Pressure sender is right behind the gauge under the radio bezel. Look cleaner than having extra wiring and a sender hanging off the block. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Factory oil gauges are very damped so that average owners (not enthusiasts) don't become alarmed at the oil pressure swings and the falling so fast. Probably 15 seconds from start until gauge reads 50/60 PSI. Owners want reassurance not a gauge that jumps up and down. Sudden stops can suck air into the pick up and even have the oil light flicker... can you imagine what the oil pressure would read? A damped gauge wouldn't even notice this. It's the same with the gas tank gauge. If not damped the sloshing gas would make reading it impossible. The red low oil pressure light is set for 5-8 PSI, hell crank your engine for 5 seconds and let go of the key and the light is out. It comes on within a few seconds. Quote Link to comment
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