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1978 Datsun 620 k.c. rear axle shim gap


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Bought a set of Timken rear bearings for h190 from Rock Auto. I assumed they where made in U.S. Not so, made in China. Will not go thru all that work for bearings made in China. Found some on E-Bay because you can see where they are made. Got one from Italy another from Japan for about the same price as Rock Auto. My question is, what is a good end play. Chitons reads 0.012 - 0.035. Is there a happy medium (mostly a daily driver). Also, should I spray copper coating between shims to limit leakage ?

Thanks for your input.

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You mean the axle bearings? Axle end play is 0.0008" to 0.0059" right out of the '78 Nissan FSM. The shims are select fit to adjust for the correct end play.

 

Shims go in dry. There is nothing to leak out. There is an oil seal in the axle tube ends and the bearing grease stays where it is.

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I think the bearing doesn't always press back on to the same position as the old one. As for shims they are only on one side.The end play is one axle against the other. The other side is pushed out all the way. The one you are adjusting has to move in and out 0.0008" to 0.0059" this is the space between the ends of the axles in the differential

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 As for shims they are only on one side.The end play is one axle against the other. The other side is pushed out all the way. 

 

Every single one I have ever taken apart had shims on both sides of the vehicle. For a reason too.....

 

The end play is NOT one axle against the other axle. The end play is the axle against the spider gear crosspin in the differential carrier, thus needing both axles shimmed.

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Every single one I have ever taken apart had shims on both sides of the vehicle. For a reason too.....

 

The end play is NOT one axle against the other axle. The end play is the axle against the spider gear crosspin in the differential carrier, thus needing both axles shimmed.

 

There is a thrust block the cross pin slides through. It's sort of a loose sloppy fit on the pin and the axles butt against it. Again you only need to adjust one side.

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There is a thrust block the cross pin slides through. It's sort of a loose sloppy fit on the pin and the axles butt against it. Again you only need to adjust one side.

 

You are absolutely wrong on this one. Yes the thrust block "floats" a little bit, but not enough to just shim one side only.

 

The proper procedure can be found in the FSM. I found it in my 1976 FSM on page RA-5.

 

Good luck to the OP...

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Install one side axle and adjust the axial or in/out play to between 0.012"-0.035" by adding or subtracting axle case shims. The four nuts tightened to 39-46 ft lbs.

 

Now install the other side axle and adjust axial play to 0.008" 0.0008" to 0.0059" by adding or subtracting case shims. The four nuts tightened to 39-46 ft lbs.

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.0059 is not a half thou, it's just 1/10,000 under .006".

If you have a 1/1000 indicator, just use .006"., you will still be within tollerances.

Sorry, had to chime in, I've been a machinist for most of my life, and have worked in tollerances of +/- 50/millionths.

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