Jump to content

My B210/120Y Build log/Projekt


tboe0

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone  :blush:

 

This is the first time I do something like this(A forum post / build log ), so be gentle  :rolleyes:, but criticism is welcome ! (Sorry for the long story, but I thought that you should be able to get it all 'noPotato'  :) )

 

Here will my build log be, as I a little time ago bought myself a, least to say, projekt car, which I want to make Road Worthy.

 

The Story goes as follows, some guy on a Facebook group made a post, wanting a classic RWD JDM car. On that post, some guy(Karsten) postet a photo of a Barnfind that he had sitting, which he himself, hadn't have time to come buy yet, so why not make somebody else happy?

I wrote to the guy, but OP was also in contact with him, so it was a matter of first to be there gets it. 

 

To all my surprise, i got there first (OP hadn't had time)  :thumbup:

 

The car was one big unknown... The owner didn't have any papers or info on the car besides what he could see and what he knew, as it followed when he bought the estate of a passed away elderly.

To his knowledge the previews owner had had a plan to restore or fix it, and he had gotten a indisposition and could not continue, as of that, the car had been standing still since the late 80'es early 90'es.. It stood with 60.000 km on the clock, so (Y) 

 

But here it was;

 

2015-12-22%2015.39.47_zpslzp6nrjv.jpg

 

2015-12-22%2015.40.42_zpsw0nmv3xh.jpg

 

2015-12-22%2015.40.52_zpsb5p8tchp.jpg

 

As you see it needed a kind hand, and alot of work...

 

But I ended up buying it for 10.000,- DKK ( Around 1500,- USD ), Some of you may think/believe that that price is way too high, but here in Denmark we have some bitching import laws, and the price for Datsuns in Europe is just high... Along with the fact that if I wanted to import one from Japan or the US then on top on getting it transported back home, there would be an import tax of around 1500,- USD, so this was a quite good deal for me  :thumbup:

 

I got it home to a friend, where there is room for it to be, and us to work.

There we made a 1.step plan. If we could get the engine startet, the weekend would have been a succes... But we didn't get that lucky...

 

The battery was toast, so we replaced that. Got in. Turned the key. All the lights worked ect. and all the warning lights turned on, as there was no water, brake or clutch fluid anywhere, it had evaporated  :huh: along with the oil, which there was not too much left of.

Turned the ignition and; 'click' ...(try again) 'click' .. 'click' ...

The starter was toast :sleep:

We then took the starter out and tried to figure out that was wrong. We ended up getting it going on the bench, but not the correct way so when we get it back in, nothing happened... This was such a pain, as we ended up doing this several times... Getting it going on the bench, but not in the car..

After lots of trying, we ended up finding out that it was the switch / relay ON the starter, the mechanism that pushes the spoke out into the gearboks so the teeth can engage with the clutch, that was fuc*ed. 

We then took this off and my friends dad said that they had one that looked alike from an old VW golf. It turned out that they wasn't the same, but he then dismantled / tore it apart to see how it functioned, and we found out the following;

When the ignition activates, a electromagnet is activated, pulling the small piston(which is responsible for pulling/pushing the gear on the motor out) in, pushing on a rod, that connects the two terminals that activates the motor and allowing the starter to get the current it needs.  (Sorry for no pictures here, would have been help full for understanding...)

We got the Datsun unit apart, using a set of screwdrivers to prey it open carefully, cleaned the terminals inside, and leveling the contact points, so the connection was restored.

IT WORKED! One little victory, yay  :frantics:

But when we got it back on the car, it still didn't start, but the motor was turning, so we could work from here.

 

To make the rest short, se testet the spark, and there wasn't any... the distributor had nothing left on the platin plates and something had shorted out, melting a wire ect. 

 

What a fucking pain...

But there it was, standing in our behold  :D

 

2015-12-30%2011.43.08_zpsp3d4rhcg.jpg

 

2015-12-30%2011.43.28_zps0yuelv0f.jpg

 

We then agreed that, Okay, fuc* it. Lets rip it apart... As we knew that there was some rust behind both front wheels. But this ended up getting WAAAYYY out of hand, and we found a bit more rust that expected...

 

2015-12-30%2019.18.40_zpshqxv4qxg.jpg

 

2015-12-30%2019.18.57_zpscofum2bd.jpg

 

2015-12-30%2016.36.05_zpssqgmvihw.jpg

 

2015-12-30%2016.36.37_zpszowq9ueu.jpg

 

Under the front panels

 

2016-01-24%2014.18.23_zpsjyfsjbhw.jpg

 

2016-01-24%2014.17.55_zpsbt7bhf9h.jpg

 

Wheel arch

 

2016-01-24%2014.18.06_zps4vloyvgz.jpg

 

Along with that, what i havn't got pictures of.

Both the driver's and passengers floor (ad the feet), going from the bottom/ start of transmission tunnel, all around the bottom edge of the outer frame back to mid between the rear passanger's and front passangers... But there dosen't seem to be any in the important structures and guards, so that good..? 

 

So there is a good amount of rust to be dealt with... :no:

 

But Along the way, we will get it done  :)

If anyone know where to get some replacement/sheet metal for the shown/described ares it would help a lot! Then we dont need to fabricate it all our self :lol:

 

The course is then laid. The car needs to be fully striped from everything, and then we are going to give it a complete overhaul! Paintjob, interior ect. :frantics:

 

But regarding the motor, I'm thinking of getting one out of a Nissan Micra(CG14DE or CR12DE) to replace it with, but mating it to a gearbox and which I havnt found out yet...

I have also thought of the Ford Ecoboost 1.0, Maxda 1.8 V6 ( K8 ) (these too mate up with the MX5 gearbox kinda) and some others... Mainly because of it being too expensive to fully rebuild the A12 in there, if I want any power out of it  :sleep: I might do this on the side, as a free-time projekt, putting it back in, when it's rebuild

 

Why then not just do the good old SR20 or one of the other well proven powerswaps? In Denmark you are not allowed to tune/add more power to a chassi, beyond 20% of sock rating. Beyond that you need to reinforce the whole thing, and get it approved ect. to get it road leagel, and this is a pain + very expensive... But the 20% if, of what the chassi is rated for, not the model, so if the chassi is the same for another model, with a more powerfull engine, you can add up to 20% on the "top" model power-rating ;)

To this I ask... Is the chassi for the B210 the same for A10-12-14 L14-16 models ? Or how do they differ? 

This I then need to prove with some sort of official paper ect. but just a thought...   

 

Best Regards Toby ( Tobias ) and Christian

(We are also thinking of making a Youtube series our of what we are doing, although we didn't filmed the first part, we would do the rest ? Ideas on this would be great also! )

Link to comment
  • Replies 23
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Great first post and welcome to ratsun.

 

I think a video series would be great. Many of us on here follow Bad obsession motorsports, and their project binky.

 

 

I'm also a fan of this goofy fellow named Aaron Cake restoring a 76 Mazda RX5 Cosmo.

 

 

And then there is this great set of videos about a Z car called project Hugo. Sadly, if it was finished, they quit making videos, so the series is incomplete.

 

 

You can find more on Hugo just by Google searching project Hugo 240z.

 

Anyway, those are some of my favorite video series, just to give you guys some different ways of presenting the build, all of which I think work great. Whatever you choose to do, I look forward to following the build.

Link to comment

Hi Toby, welcome to ratsun. Nice Bee you have there, what year?? I think all the C-210 were the same an d the largest engine is an A15 and around 80 hp?.

Thanks Mike. Either it's a 74 or a 78, but i dont know for sure... 

 

Great first post and welcome to ratsun.

 

I think a video series would be great. Many of us...

Funny you would mention it, I also follow them and think that its great :D 

 

But Nice feedback! We'll try to make a series out of it  :thumbup:

Link to comment

                  You're one brave Dude for taking on a project like that!

 

                                                             - Doug

Haha yeah, but "I have a dream..."  :lol: 

And "one day..." This will hit The road, and it will be Legend... Wait for it. (It'll come when it gets there *_* ) ...

 

+ what should any other 20'old do besides this and work ;-)

  • Like 1
Link to comment

incredible :) 

i own a 1976 coupe i think its the exact same model as this one and its orange too :) 

i'll be following this post closely, maybe i can learn more about my own car too 

 

IMG_0838_zpsyby0uvwn.jpg

 

 

i hope you stick with the stock engine and build it up especially if you're only allowed to get 20% more power out of it, slap a turbo on it, 

Link to comment

incredible :)

i own a 1976 coupe i think its the exact same model as this one and its orange too :)

i'll be following this post closely, maybe i can learn more about my own car too 

 

...

 

i hope you stick with the stock engine and build it up especially if you're only allowed to get 20% more power out of it, slap a turbo on it, 

 

That must be the same car! ( Thanks  ;)  Now i know the yeah that it's prop from  :lol:  )

 

Please do, and if there is anything you dont agree on or think I should do, then say so  ^_^

 

I have come to the conclusion that I might as well stick with the A12 and do a complete rebuild, and get that motor to be the best it can be!

I'll get it cleaned, tested, honed, milled, ported, ect. and in the end prop. go EFI and EDIS. On top of that I'm having BIG thoughts about getting a SC12 and supercharging it! 

(EDIT: It is easier to get a blower legal where I live, as the government have choosen to "Not be so dump" and believe that a turbo doesn't give under 20% power increase  :geek:  :angel: ) --> even though I REALLY want to turbo this thing  :hyper:

 

But only time can tell how it wil progress  :cool:

Toby

Link to comment

do you still have a chassis vin number? you should be able to check from there the exact year and model its build in. 

 

ive read about the A12 engines being tuned up to 140hp. theres a few tuning specialists in south africa, australia and japan where you could get parts from. in south africa they have a 1400cc version of this engine and its very popular in drag racing and makes plenty of power :) ....turbo'd of course.

 

 

good luck on it anyway 

Link to comment

that's a hell of alot of rust work there.... going to take some ingenuity. 

 with the front of the car being so rusted have you considered doing a complete suspension upgrade while you're at it? perhaps borrow from another nissan and a better performance suspension setup with more parts available.

Link to comment

No I havnt looked af suspensionen yet *_*

 

Maybe I should xD anything good to recommend? ;)

 

Did think about it, but om going for a rebuild of the A12 and maybe a supercharger, as that is easier to get approved around my place(Denmark)

Link to comment

haha that seems like a headache waiting to happen 

 

cant recommend anything really i still run the factory setup and i have no other experience

 

 

sounds good there's a few turbo conversions running about, apparently the engine likes forced induction, i want too build up the a12 as well currently looking into carbs. not getting too serios for now maby just the carb and exhaust. might be doing a swap next year or so 

Link to comment

On yeah... I have looked a little into it :)

Its fairly straight forward, front rollovers would be nice, but Im actually thinking of getting a airbag kit :O ;)

Havnt seen it done yet?

Front should be simple, but rear should problem... But seeing people put coilover on the rear makes me think that it isnt that bad.

 

Yeah exactly, I'm thinking about 10-14 psi, as that is what stook internals seem to be reliable for.

I'm getting it rebuild, currently getting prices from different places. Then as that it done, I don't think it would be fair to put stock ind/out back in it afterward, so I'm going to make my own exhaust and prop go EFI on costume manifold.

 

When I get it to where I'm thinking, all though a swap would be cheaper, I don't think I would like to swap it :) It should be plenty of fun!

Link to comment

that's a hell of a project :) going all out 

 

i don't know of any b210s with airride would be cool to see 

http://www.datsun1200.asia/
check them out they have some pretty cool parts you might like :)

 

a swap would be cheaper but don't count out the lil A12 engine  they can be quite mean 

in south africa they have an abundance of the A14 engine from the nissan 1400/champ, its very a very popular tuning engine there since its so cheap. they do turbo conversions on them and drag race them. 

i might head back to botswana for a holiday later this year and pickup some parts for my datsun from south africa...... budget allowing a decent A14 engine, exhuast parts, performance bits and 5-speed  :rofl: if it works out i'll see if i can get a reliable contact to source parts for us datsun owners. i know a guy who has a moving company there just need to find a trusted garage

Link to comment
  • 2 months later...

Hey there  B) 

We got a little update for you;

The car has been striped and we have began fixing rust...
And there is alot of it...

2016-03-05%2014.22.19_zpsq8sdy0xw.jpg

Have alot of pics of buth more rust found and some of the stuff we have fixed, but wanting to make this short.

In my spare time ( I live a 3 hour drive from where the car is standing ), I have brought some parts with my home and given them some attention. Did the brakecylinder and the res's as they where comepletly clogged up with dryed out (sry no pics)
But have also given the rear lights a makeover;

The before

2016-03-20%2019.11.29_zps0d63q90f.jpg

After sanding and cleaning;

2016-03-22%2000.20.59_zpsceqqkfzk.jpg

Finished:

2016-03-22%2005.38.51_zpsgy9wywgw.jpg

But now I have some spare time as I have been fired from work :bye:  So I'm over here working on the car the whole week!  :thumbup:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys!

 

 

Can you explain the process of how you sanded and buffed your tail lights?

There is a couple of ways you can do it.

 

What I did:

- I disassembled the taillights

- Gave all items a good clean
- Painted the body of the taillight black

- The lens:

Clean with brakecleaner
Sand down with 220
Clean
Sand with 400
Clean
Sand with 600/800
Clean
sand with 1000
Clean

After this step they will be very soof to the touch, but still matt.

Apply 2 layers of UV-resistant gloss clear coat, and let dry.
Sand down the surface lightly with 800/1000 grid
Apply 1 light layer of UV-res. gloss clear coat to finish off. 

 

Alternative to clear coat after 1000 grid sand. :

Buff with very rough polish compound and finish off with medium/fine polish.

NOTE: It might be difficult to buff as the plastic is soft, not as glass which is "easy" to polish very clear.

 

Hope that gives some inspiration :)  

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.