Stitebunny Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I need to replace the master on my 510. What brand do you guys like? Rock Auto has a Raybestos and Cardone in stock. Either of those decent? I did see a Nabco rebuild kit somewhere but I think I just want to drop a whole unit in. Thanks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I would look at the Nabco kit. Quality is almost certainly higher than some unknown brand. Most are Chinese made and although they may have lifetime replacement do you really want a failure? It's not hard to rebuild them and increases your knowledge and appreciation of this part 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 If you can get your hands on a CENTRIC... I would recommend CENTRIC any day, any application. 2 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 If you can get your hands on a CENTRIC... I would recommend CENTRIC any day, any application. This 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Rockauto has centric Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Do they have 15/16 for Datsun cars? Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Do they have 15/16 for Datsun cars? RAYBESTOS MC39277 Professional Grade; Bore Size=15/16 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I had a hell of a time finding the rebuild kit for my 15/16". I think it was only $12 and half hour to 'build'. Works great on Maxima calipers. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Unless it s NEW Nabco/Tokico they all are really 5 year hydralic parts Believe me. If rebuilt but Nabco/Tokico core its the same as above. maybe a 5 year part if that. brand name dont mean much as most are sorced thru Italy, Taiwain or now China. Body is fine its the rubber that wears out. Jap rubber is just better. pretty all with hydralic parts. Buy 2 as youll need it. I got only 1.5 years out of my clutch master the last one I did. the other same time but would pump up and not release. If you can fine NEW Made in Japan then pay the 120$. Quote Link to comment
Stitebunny Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Thanks for the input. I'll see what I can find. Fyi, mine is stamped 3/4 on the 70 510 wagon. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 The majority of 60-mid70s Datsun cars were 3/4". As weight went up so did the master in response to larger calipers/ wheel cylinders and brake boosters. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 How difficult would it be to rebuild your own?, has anyone here done it?, I had my old one apart and really doesn't look all that special.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I've done several. A dual master for a 510 and a 15/16" zx for my 710... at least. They are as easy as they look. Cleanliness is extremely important... cannot stress this enough, so lots of paper towels and CLEAN rags, spray brake cleaner. The bore inside must be operating theater clean and smooth. Lube all rubber parts with brake fluid before installing. Have a diagram and/or take pictures. Make sure the kit has all the parts. The FSM says to never remove the reservoirs, but to replace with new ones. I can only assume they are concerned that the owner may not get the clamps back on properly and the reservoir leaks and goes dry without warning. Maybe the plastic parts get brittle? I simply warm the bottoms in hot water to soften them, dry thoroughly slip on and clamp them down. You... are on your own on this. If you have a master from a four wheel disc brake car and are retro-fitting to a drum brake rear wheel vehicle, the residual valve will need to be removed from the front (marked R for rear) of the master. You can simply replace it with any other residual valve from a drum rear vehicle. Drum brakes need to keep about 10 pounds of pressure in the rear hydraulic lines to compensate for the extra distance the shoes and springs need to travel before the shoes contact the drums. Disc brakes only need a couple of pounds to keep the pads lightly against the rotor. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Good stuff Mike, thanks! Quote Link to comment
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