Suplexilicious Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 The block needs to vent, if that is a vented oil cap, then your likely alright, but if it's not vented, your going to start blowing seals and oil will start leaking out of said blown seals. You could likely rig something up on the block vent that goes to the PCV, but the PCV would not likely work properly anymore. That's a nice looking valve cover, I would not drill it myself, I would have two valve covers, one for driving, and that one for shows if you keep your engine compartment clean like Joel does. Stupid question but how would I know if the cap is vented? I would assume it is being that there aren't any other provisions cast into it for said venting. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Turn the cap over if it is sealed it is not vented. If it has openings with screen looking wires in the holes it is vented. Sweet truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Turn the cap over if it is sealed it is not vented. If it has openings with screen looking wires in the holes it is vented. Sweet truck. Thank you. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 I would want the vent. Looking cool only last till the motor fucks up 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Here is what i did to mine. Changed it from the shitty twist to screw in style and smoothed the top out and made the vent along the back side with a baffle. 3 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Is that a 26" SE Ripper in the background? Datsuns and BMX. Win win. 2 Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Tit is.. shit head doesn't wanna send me it 2 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I'm a little frustrated today. I knew my floorboards we're going to need replacing - no shocker there as it's a fairly common problem on 521s. After work, I decided to assess the rust problem and see if the damage was localized or if the bench and kick-ass AstroTurf carpet were hiding anything else. After yanking the bench/carpet, I got a better look. Needless to say, I'm bummed out about what I found. The truck has cancer all over anyway. However, I can handle it on the fenders, bedsides and rockers for now. I'm trying to decide if I should find one that is not rotting away and use mine as a parts car or attempt to fix it (I REALLY don't want to because body work can suck it). Pics of floor damage. I feel like they don't do it justice but take a look. The condition of my exhaust. Pinches, crimps and bends throughout. Haha. The one plus for this afternoon. My heater looks (I say "looks" because all the levers are there and not broken or seized up - not because I've actually tried it. Haha) to be in working condition. 1 Quote Link to comment
greenthumb Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I dunno... That doesn't look undoable, unless the picture is deceiving. I don't actually see any holes. Am I missing something here? 1 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I dunno... That doesn't look undoable, unless the picture is deceiving. I don't actually see any holes. Am I missing something here? There are plenty of holes forward of the seats. There aren't any holes (yet) under the bench but scaling/flaking from the rust is pretty bad. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I'd get some rust converter on that quick. Nothing too terrible there. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Take a look at this truck. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/ The back part of the floor, the part under the seat is pretty much as it is in the first page of the long thread. I have cut, bent, and fitted two 18 gauge steel floor pans for the front part of the floor. The front pans are held on with a few screws, for now. I do have a second cab, that will be on this truck eventually, but it also has rusty floor pans. Because a 521 cab sits on a strong frame, you can get away with the cab not being as strong as you would with a car, that uses unibody construction. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Floor aint shit. get diamon plate over it and roll it. salvage the Y pipe on the exhaust the rest will be new and use aluminized pipe say 1.75 to 2inch. Bigtanker I see some Mikunis on the floor!!!!!!!!!! 3 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Take a look at this truck. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/ Because a 521 cab sits on a strong frame, you can get away with the cab not being as strong as you would with a car, that uses unibody construction. My floors look every bit as rusty as those. For now, I'll keep my focus elsewhere. I've got a garage that it sits in and I'm not driving it so I can get away with ignoring them for now. When I do get to the floors, it'll give me a good excuse to hone my welding skills. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Is that a 26" SE Ripper in the background? Datsuns and BMX. Win win. bike is for sale i bought and it just sits. 2 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 bike is for sale i bought and it just sits. I laugh about my wife killing me over the Datsun and all subsequent purchases for said Datsun. I absolutely know she'd kill me if I started down the BMX road again. I was BIG into the mid-school stuff; JAD, Herrington, HAWK, ELF, ACE, Cannondale, Mountain Cycle, Redman, Iron Horse, brand X, S&M, Powerlite, GT, Robinson, Hanebrink, Haro. And the list goes on. 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 I laugh about my wife killing me over the Datsun and all subsequent purchases for said Datsun. I absolutely know she'd kill me if I started down the BMX road again. I was BIG into the mid-school stuff; JAD, Herrington, HAWK, ELF, ACE, Cannondale, Mountain Cycle, Redman, Iron Horse, brand X, S&M, Powerlite, GT, Robinson, Hanebrink, Haro. And the list goes on. That is a list in it self. I got from a coworker and he needed money. I'm 320 lbs I'm exceeding the bike max weight..lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Morning update. The 1300 valve cover was sniped by someone else but I was able to score a kph speedometer. I guess not getting the valve cover is a good thing as I can focus on the tank and converting to disc brakes. After some research, I've decided against having the tank done by a radiator shop. The shops in town who actually perform the service quoted me $200, $250 and $300, respectively. I've heard good things about www.hirschauto.com tank renewal products so I'll give that a shot - saving me about $150. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I am glad I moved back to Phoenix from Salt Lake in 1986. It cost me $65 to have a tank cleaned at a radiator shop I have used since the 70s. 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Woah how much was that valve cover that your gonna use the money for disk brakes instead?? Ouch prices seem high for tank job. I would probably just go with a new aluminum radiator. They go for like $130 now on ebay, ive had name brands and cheepos and both treated me good. As a matter of fact the cheaper aluminum radiators with no brand treated me better than the "good/cool" brand ones 2 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Woah how much was that valve cover that your gonna use the money for disk brakes instead?? Ouch prices seem high for tank job. I would probably just go with a new aluminum radiator. They go for like $130 now on ebay, ive had name brands and cheepos and both treated me good. As a matter of fact the cheaper aluminum radiators with no brand treated me better than the "good/cool" brand ones Valve cover wasn't crazy money but enough to cover a few caliprs from the junk yard. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 My speedometer showed up today. The glass had a serious layer of dust and grime on the inside so I've spent the afternoon cleaning it up. It worked well as its hard to see the glass in the first pic. The chrome trim has some surface rust so I'll need to figure out what to do with it. Before reassembling, I'll replace all the bulbs (led) and freshen the needles with some paint. Enough talk. Here's the pics. 2 Quote Link to comment
greenthumb Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 cool stuff. You pick that up in Asia somewhere? 1 Quote Link to comment
Suplexilicious Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 cool stuff. You pick that up in Asia somewhere? Gotta love Japan for parts. Gotta hate it for corrosion. 1 Quote Link to comment
greenthumb Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 I'm at the same stage- I forget which thread I saw a pretty comprehensive led install with part numbers etc. Should be a sticky imo for all us dim-dashed brethren 2 Quote Link to comment
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