1976 datsun 710 (Mia)

[bilzbobaggins]

Bad new coil then. Return and get another

[logiccreations]

ok

[S30Jay]

Now we are getting somewhere. You have power at the coil + terminal? How many volts? It should be full battery voltage, check with a multimeter.

 

If it is full voltage, and the ground path is definitely good on the negative side, you should test the coil for primary and secondary resistance values.

 

To test primary, hook up your meter to the coils + and - terminals and check resistance, should read something fairly low like .4 to 2 ohms. If it has no resistance its shorted, if very high or infinite its open. You said you had 3 ohm, I'm assuming that's primary? If so that's OK.

 

Check secondary by hooking meter to + and center post (large) terminals and check resistance. It should be high like 5k-15k or so.

 

Let us know what you get.

 

Also your ground path should break when the points open and be complete when they are closed. If that can't happen your coil won't discharge.

[Draker]

Won't discharge.. and will probably burn up.  :blink:

[KoHeartsGPA]

I thought I had a bad coil last year after all of a sudden lost spark, got the new coil and when I went to replace it I realized that I had a bad connection to the + terminal of the coil.....ya.....the little things....coil was fine, check ALL connections!

[banzai510(hainz)]

typically a point electrical car will have a coil and a ballast resisitor.

On 510s and will ASSUME on this car its a 1.6 ohm coil and a 1.6 ohm ballast or close to it. When in START you bypass the resisitor as your loading down the batter to like 10volts.

 

Now if you have a 3 ohm coil its hard to start on a cold day or even a warm day But assume you still get spark. if you have a 3 ohm coil and the ballast its going to be even harder to start.

 

put the stock stuff back in with the HOT start wire to coil.

 

to me its most like no spark is no 12volt on the HOT start wire.

 

or the condenser/or wire is grounded out . as point distributors are EZ!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

If you have a stock 1st GEN EI distributor then forgoet what I said.  I assume in 76 it was still points but above drawing look like a EI coil set up with dist

 

OH Update if going by the drawing showing a distributor with red green wire hook up(EI dist) then this nees a EI coil as a 3 ohm might not start the vehicle. I think a EI coil is like .7 ohms

[logiccreations]

its not electronic its an early 76, they put the electronic ignition on the late model. and i dont have any of the original parts otherwise i would have put them on.

[S30Jay]

Did you measure resistance on the ignition coil secondary yet?

 

Did you verify the - side of coil has a complete path to ground when the points are closed, and an open (broken) path to ground when they are open?

 

I like to check ground circuits with a test light. Jump from your battery + post and the ground you are checking. If it lights the path is complete (grounded), if not it's open.

 

You can check with multimeter on V dc setting. Connect across your battery positive and negative posts to read battery voltage. Then go from battery positive to the ground wire in question. You will read battery voltage if grounded well, nothing if open.

 

Hope that helps....

[banzai510(hainz)]

some photos would be good.

If you got a 3 ohm coil then it might be harder to start. you want a 79 200sx 0r 620 coil for that model year.

 

 

I assume this is a Matchbox ignition where the box is on the side of the distributor.

Or its the early EI distributor then it needs the remote box thats usuallu in the car soemwhere. Or one get a GM HEI module to look up in the HOW TO section.

 

L motors are EZ. If you cant handle this youwont be able to hande a motor swap from another car. Trust me. Craigslist is full of Datsun with motors pulled and sitting in drivewasy and backyards

 

 

get soem photos or the set up.

[logiccreations]

ok sry for the lack of activity i got the engine rebuilt(an actual rebuild this time)  and put back in and i bought a new coil, so i have spark out of the coil so my points are fine but no spark to the plugs, i think i need a new rotor and cap?  pics on the way 

[Draker]

Sounds like you are on the right track!!

[datzenmike]

ok sry for the lack of activity i got the engine rebuilt(an actual rebuild this time)  and put back in and i bought a new coil, so i have spark out of the coil so my points are fine but no spark to the plugs, i think i need a new rotor and cap?  pics on the way 

 

New cap and rotor never hurts. But this could simply be the rotor is pointing between wires when the coil fires.

 

Set engine to TDC #1 and take the distributor out by removing the two 10mm bolts on the base of the pedestal. Look down inside you should see...

 

 

Notice there is a large and small half moon side. If you don't have this the oil pump/distributor drive spindle may be in wrong. No worries, it's an easy fix.

[logiccreations]

yes i have that set mike my brother about punched me in the head cause i accidentally put it in backwards

[datzenmike]

It would work perfectly 180 degrees backwards. Just move all the plug wires two positions left or right

[S30Jay]

Way to stick with it! It'll be running soon, follow Mike's advice!

[logiccreations]

ok i got spark to the plugs but the engine doesn't even want to try to light off and it is getting gas

[S30Jay]

Timing, firing order, compression.

[Jester]

^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^   :thumbup:  

[flatcat19]

Battery voltage too.

[logiccreations]

ladies and gentlemen of the court i would like to say that my friends are idiots and i will never listen to one of there machine shop suggestions ever again...   

[Draker]

Thats a bummer... did you torque it down to spec? What happened?

[flatcat19]

Well...you'd be missing compression looking like that.

 

What happened? You're missing a dowel in that picture.

[datzenmike]

Check the head for the missing one. If it was missing, the head can skew off center at the back

[S30Jay]

Man thats a shame.

 

In addition to the missing dowel, I would recommend checking both the block and head surfaces for straightness prior to reassembling. Also it'd be a good idea to chase all of the threads too. I don't think I would assume the shop took care of it.

 

Take your time and keep things clean...you'll be fine.

[flatcat19]

Check head bolts for stretch.