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electric fan cfm question


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This is along the lines of what I was thinking as well. When the tstat is closed, the sensor gets a false reading from lack of coolant flow.

 

Then again the second that t stat opens the fans would kick on. So now I'm wondering if I should try it

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The way I see it as long as the water flowing back into the engine is at or below the thermostat range you don't need a fan on. Where's the best place to sample this? the return hose.

 

I've heard people say that water that passes through the rad too fast won't be there long enough to be cooled. Rubbish. The temperature of something drops fastest when the difference between it and it's surroundings is greatest. Example red hot steel bar at 1,200F and the same bar at 70 F with the surrounding air temp at 68F. Which will show the fastest and greatest drop in temp in 5 min? Right the red hot bar.

 

Same with rad water. The faster it flows the hotter it will be directly from the warm engine. Slower and you are cooling already cooled water. If you were heating a room with the radiated air you would get warmer faster by turning up the flow of hot water not turning it down.

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put it in the middle?, my setup hasn't failed and I drove many city miles in rush hour traffic during summer, no issues.

What do you mean put it in the middle? And there is a big difference between yours and mine. CFM... Your setup pushes alot more air. 750 v 2500.

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Z24radhose007Large.jpg

 

Here's mine from a KA powered ... something, probably a 240sx. I just cut 2" out of the L series rad hose and slipped it in. Uh I should mention... I never finished the job. It was to be used on a Z24 engine in my truck. I installed the sensor but never got the fan figured out. It will end up in my 710 L20B.

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what do you mean around the edge of the fan?

 

like the fan is still attached to the rad and the shroud surrounds the fan? instead of attaching the fan to the shroud?

 

this might be my only option as well with the lack of room near the water pump

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mine is a bit more open. just a standard spal fan.

 

I think i'll cut my shroud to cover the whole back side of the rad and leave the fan connected to the rad. I know it would be more efficient if the fan was spaced away from the rad and connected to the shroud, but again, i'm lacking room. sheet alum isn't to pricey so i'll see how this helps, and go from there. it should still help pull the air from the entire fan surface.  

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