spdcrazy Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 This is along the lines of what I was thinking as well. When the tstat is closed, the sensor gets a false reading from lack of coolant flow. Then again the second that t stat opens the fans would kick on. So now I'm wondering if I should try it Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 put it in the middle?, my setup hasn't failed and I drove many city miles in rush hour traffic during summer, no issues. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 The way I see it as long as the water flowing back into the engine is at or below the thermostat range you don't need a fan on. Where's the best place to sample this? the return hose. I've heard people say that water that passes through the rad too fast won't be there long enough to be cooled. Rubbish. The temperature of something drops fastest when the difference between it and it's surroundings is greatest. Example red hot steel bar at 1,200F and the same bar at 70 F with the surrounding air temp at 68F. Which will show the fastest and greatest drop in temp in 5 min? Right the red hot bar. Same with rad water. The faster it flows the hotter it will be directly from the warm engine. Slower and you are cooling already cooled water. If you were heating a room with the radiated air you would get warmer faster by turning up the flow of hot water not turning it down. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 put it in the middle?, my setup hasn't failed and I drove many city miles in rush hour traffic during summer, no issues. What do you mean put it in the middle? And there is a big difference between yours and mine. CFM... Your setup pushes alot more air. 750 v 2500. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 The sensor, I got my fans from summit racing, the relay from NAPA and installed the sensor on top of rad after consulting with few local autocross guys. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Nissan themselves put them in the bottom radiator hose on at least some vehicles, such as the s13. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 That's interesting and makes more sense with efi since the performance is based on several factors including engine temperatures. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Here's mine from a KA powered ... something, probably a 240sx. I just cut 2" out of the L series rad hose and slipped it in. Uh I should mention... I never finished the job. It was to be used on a Z24 engine in my truck. I installed the sensor but never got the fan figured out. It will end up in my 710 L20B. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Very interesting. If it doesn't snow, I'll have a shroud built today. We will see how much that affects things. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 To be clear this only happens at low speed and idle of course? The fan is turning the correct way? to pull air through the rad... don't assume. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Yes sir. It is hooked up correctly and pulling air. Only happens at low speed. Highways are fine. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Just checking. (sometimes it's the simple things) A shroud will increase the efficiency of the fan. I have one with a shroud build around the outer edge of the blades. Moving it closer to the rad will also help. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Ya I'm not sure how the fab will work, but we will see by the end of day! Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 what do you mean around the edge of the fan? like the fan is still attached to the rad and the shroud surrounds the fan? instead of attaching the fan to the shroud? this might be my only option as well with the lack of room near the water pump Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 The fan blade ends all supported a circular hoop which also turned. A sort of one piece fan and shroud. Somewhat like these. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 So yours is something like those fans with nothing else? I'm confused.. My spal fan is very similar to these as well. But it leaves alot of the rad surface open Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Ohh I see what you mean by the end of the fan blades, but still, do you have a shroud to help cover the rest of the rad? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 I had it on the front pushing but it would work pulling. The ring keeps the air from spilling around the ends of the blades. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 mine is a bit more open. just a standard spal fan. I think i'll cut my shroud to cover the whole back side of the rad and leave the fan connected to the rad. I know it would be more efficient if the fan was spaced away from the rad and connected to the shroud, but again, i'm lacking room. sheet alum isn't to pricey so i'll see how this helps, and go from there. it should still help pull the air from the entire fan surface. Quote Link to comment
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