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1973 620


EBW

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I bought two from Rockauto - one fit and the other bound up the joint and made a horrible scraping noise.  Don't go for the cheapest one they have - they ARE different!

Thanks and Good to know. I hope I picked the right one.

It was the middle priced.

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I went with the cheapest, and its been working fine, if I was to do it again I would go ahead and pick up the timken for the new nut and washers. Turns out when I did mine the PO had actually installed it backwards, so the nut had been restaked once already, and one of the back spacer/bushing was mangled.

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Small update while waiting for parts....   It sucks that the only place to find the brake adjuster shims is in Canada. The adjuster was being held only by the brake pad tension.

 

 

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Ordered these since all 4 were missing....  DOES ANYONE STILL USE THESE ??

 

 

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2 out of 4 of the small springs were broken, had to order a set.

 

 

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Media Blasted and painted rims.

 

Before....

 

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Primed.....

 

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Purchased some White Walls.... :thumbup:

 

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And how it sits for now until rest of parts arrive...

 

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you can order replacement adjusters from rockauto

It wasn't the adjuster I needed... its the three tension shims that hold it to the backing plate.

trust me.. I wish Rockauto had it. They have been great with getting parts to me quickly.

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  • 1 month later...

Small update. 

Had to take a break on here due to Two family deaths that had me busy with all the crap that goes with funerals and arrangements and family business.

 

 

 

The brake shims arrived and worked like a charm.

 

I went to see how bad the brake fluid was, and it was like black tar from the seals going bad.

Ended up ordering a new master cylinder and did a bench bleed.

went to install and bleed brakes.  Back two no issues.

The front I can not get anything.  Took a couple hours to finally get the front passenger line to bleed some fluid.

I took off the line at the connection and master to see if it was blocked, seemed clear.

Reinstalled and still nothing.  I even took it apart and blew air back towards the master and saw air bubbles in the resevoir.

Any suggestions on what to try tomorrow ???  I have pumped the damn peddle so many times.  Would the brake booster cause any issues ??

Thanks for the help on here.

 

 

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I don't think that is normal.....

 

 

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Old Master

 

 

 

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New master

 

 

 

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This is the line I ended of bleeding out with the airline that goes to the front.

I can not get any fluid to this point.  Any suggestions ????

 

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i think after having blown fluid through the line you're gonna have to rebleed your master cylinder. other than that maybe pull the fitting and completely clean it out and pull the tubes and run some solvent through them. maybe let them soak overnight

 

Before I blew the air back into the Master I was attempting to just get any fluid out of the connection at that point.  I could not even get fluid to there, before the line split into Driver and Pass side.

I also forgot to mention I blew air from the master side out towards the connection side.  ( I had disconnected both and wanted to see if there was any obstruction.  There was not.)

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still if you blew air through the master you'll probably have to rebench bleed it.

 

again, pull the line and try running solvent through it. if that fails, replace the tube

 

 

Yep, I know unfortunately.  I will be removing the master and bench bleed.  Also I will try to carefully clean out that top line.

 

Thanks for the help.

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Just in case... the front of the master powers the rear brakes, the rear of the master powers the front brakes.

 

 

You're saying there is no fluid moving in the line with the new master??? Probably the master is no good. Is it made in China? Is it re-conditioned or rebuilt( (just about as bad)

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Just in case... the front of the master powers the rear brakes, the rear of the master powers the front brakes.

 

 

You're saying there is no fluid moving in the line with the new master??? Probably the master is no good. Is it made in China? Is it re-conditioned or rebuilt( (just about as bad)

 

Yeah, I saw the front controlled the Rear brakes and it seems good.

The front brakes are where I am having issues ( rear on Master )

 

The new one says USA on the stamping. ( thought it was ironic since the original says Japan )  I purchased the Raybestos MC39228, It was the more expensive one that looked close to stock.

 

And Yes Mike, I am starting to wonder if this one is bad.  I have never had trouble bleeding brakes.

I am still trying to get it to work.  Already had it off, on the bench, bled as best as it would, and now reinstalled trying to get it to work correctly.

 

Thanks for info fellas !!

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Well, it seems like its always One step forward and Two steps back with this Datsun.

 

So, I took the MC off again and bench bled i,t again.  Went to put it back on and still nothing as far as bleeding the front.

My neighbor came over with a Home Built pressure bleeder and it worked like a charm.  We were able to not only bleed them but also blow out through pressure all the old crappy brake fluid.

We did the Front first, and then switched to the rear.

 

So, Im thinking Perfect !!!  I had good peddle pressure and figured I would attempt to drive it.

 

Well, No luck.  Still have limited breaking ( more than before ) but not enough to take it on the road.

I hope to get a chance to work on it in a few days and figure out what the hell is happening ( or not happening )

 

If any of you guru's have any suggestions, I am all ears ! 

 

Thanks for reading.

 

 

 

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so with the bleed screw open no fluid comes out?

 

 stick your finger in there and cover the hole and have soemone pump the brakes and see if that gets some action. I had this with a clutch slave. no fluid movement then I put my finger inside the resivoir and got it to work.

 

 

Most masters are made in Taiwan. If China then they are getting even worse. Its the rubber that gives out. If you can find Japan made Masters those last forever

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Did you adjust the brake shoes....?

 

Yes, I did.

 

 

so with the bleed screw open no fluid comes out?

 

 stick your finger in there and cover the hole and have soemone pump the brakes and see if that gets some action. I had this with a clutch slave. no fluid movement then I put my finger inside the resivoir and got it to work.

 

 

Most masters are made in Taiwan. If China then they are getting even worse. Its the rubber that gives out. If you can find Japan made Masters those last forever

 

I ended up pressurizing the system to get the fluid out.  The lines were nasty, as there was a moment when some dirty dark brake fluid was pouring out.  I kept bleeding it until it was clear ( and of course all the air )

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