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1973 620


EBW

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Hit a speed bump cleaning the Weber.

 

The Power Valve Diaphragm "gasket" was damaged while carefully being dissasembled. Did I mention the Carb was GUMMED up !!

Come to find out the rebuild kit doesn't have that part due to it NOT needing replaced.

Great !!

Now to try and find one that isn't in Australia, the UK, or Germany. 

This is an internet picture.  The gasket on mine is that paper material and was damaged.

 

Weber Power Valve Diaphragm 57804.052   #14 on the exploded Weber Diagram

57804.052-2.jpg

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I am Curious what Brand and weight Oil you guys are running ??

 

And..  are guys running a winter vs summer Weight ??

 

Every year the ZDDP level in oil is being lowered because ALL cars made in the last 20? years use a roller rocker cam that does not need the extra scuff protection afforded by the 'high' zinc levels. Probably it gums up the fancy new tech catalytic converters, eventually it all ends up in the environment. Everyone assures us that the level was extra high to begin with and reducing by almost half does no harm to older 'flat tappet' engines. I don't know if this is true or not but I do know that I won't be trusting my valve train to some 'expert' oil company geek.

 

To this end I run 15W40 Shell Rotella T (15W40 Chevron Delo 400 is similar) This is a 'light' diesel oil that still retains the old level of ZDDP in it that our old Datsuns were designed to run on. It's a bit more detergent so it gets darker sooner, but the engine does stay clean. 15W40 shouldn't be a problem for California winters

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Thanks for the info Mike, exactly what I was looking for.  And I live in Diesel country, so Rotella is a common Oil here.

 

Funny you mentioned the Zinc.  I built a Stroker motor for a project a few years ago and I was in the same situation.  The type of motor uses a 30W oil.  Well, come to find out even those weights were low on Zinc.  I ended up using Briggs and Stratten 30 Weight oil that had the proper Zinc.  If you would have told me I was going to build an expensive motor and put Lawnmower Oil in it, I would have called you crazy !

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Will get some pictures up of the progress soon....  Currently still waiting on the last bit of parts before attempting to turn over engine for the first time.

 

 

While I am waiting...   Question to the forum.

 

Lowering Blocks   3" or 4"

Angled or straight

 

Looking to be lowered but not slammed.  Running stock steelies with the white walls.

I have both sets ready to buy but am waiting to see what you guys suggest.

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Got all the new parts in, hoses replaced, fluids replaced, Carb rebuilt, etc......  Go to fire it up and it actually started !!

 

Rough, but it did run.  As I let it warm up, the carb idle started to increase and the engine was warming up nicely.

 

I could start to hear a ticking sound, and was wondering if I had a stuck valve.  Then all of a sudden pop.

 

The carb is backfiring through what appears the cycle. 

 

Blown head gasket ??  Stuck valve ???

I will upload a video of the motor running. 

 

Curious what you guys think...  and what my next course of actions should be..... ????

 

Did a compression check

#1 125

#2 133

#3 135

#4 145

 

Here is a pic of the cleaned up motor.

 

1_zpsxg5slfvd.jpg

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Thanks for the info Hainz and Distributorguy

 

I checked the vacume on the Distributor ( manually) to make sure it worked, which it does.

 

The vacume line is attached to the only part on the Carb that was open. (  Brass outlet nipple on the side facing the engine ) You can see it in the pic above.

 

Is there another area that it is supposed to be connected to ??   I am missing it ??

 

Thanks again for all the help here !! You guys are awesome

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