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1973 620


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Hello All,

 

Name is Eric and I just picked up a 1973 ( short bed ).  Its too dark to take pics now, so will post some tomorrow.

When I was 16, my buddy had a 1975 620 and I remember how great of a truck it was.   He took it many places I thought only 4 wheel drive could go.

And it ran and ran and ran.  Good memories.

 

On Thanksgiving day, I was reminded my wife's grandfather owned this '73 for many years.  It has sat since 2009 when he passed.

Seeing the truck brought back fond memories of my late Teenage years, and my 13 year old daughter saw my enthusiasm.  She also thought it was "cool for an old truck" which is saying a lot coming from a teenager.

 

So, after a few talks with key family members on who had dibs on it,  turned out to be none, I "inherited" the truck.

My daughter wants it as her truck when she is able to drive, so I figured this would be a fun project for both of us to build.

 

There is quite a bit of information here, and helpful folks, which I will need to get this 620 back on the road. 

 

First on the list is a full cleanout, as I think I brought home a colony of spiders, rodents, and dead birds.

Second is to go through the driveline..  tuneup, brakes, fuel, etc.

Third is upgrades as parts come available... Disc brakes, suspension, etc.

Fourth is cosmetic cleaning up the many changes that were done to the truck and make it ours.

 

Look forward to learning more about these great trucks.

 

 

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So, here is the 73.

A bit of cleaning was done, and a bit more !!   

Found out that the motor was exchanged for a L18 and a Weber added. ( unknown model .. 32/36 ?? )

I will change plugs and wires and cap/rotor etc. Carb rebuild. Oil changed.  Anything else you guys suggest ?

 

The Driver's side door sags.  Is there a bushing rebuild that guys do ??

I would like to get a set of Stock wheels with hub caps.

Also, the camper shell is going, along with the front visor, and front towing bumper that was welded on.

 

I am open to suggestions and ideas as I get this project going.

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Wow that looks like a GREAT starting point.  And welcome!

 

I love the proper old man styling. Visor, chrome oil and water gauges, home made camper and carpet job, '70s fuel crisis aux gas tank etc. 

 

you oughtta should sell me those wheels when you find some stockers. I don't know if I'd mount them (I like my stock steelies) but I'd love Vector style wheels as an option!

 

There is a repair kit for that hinge that works. The search bar should find it quick for you. I'll look too,  when I'm in front of a computer not an iPhone. 

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Thanks for the info GRpufnstuf, I will do a search.

 

 

Ironic... Your build is what got me wanting the Stock wheels !

 

And, I have family in Pasadena ( Eagle Rock ) so I can even drop off if I decide to get rid of them.

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Before u buy an hinge kit, I would simply loosen the 3 pins in the cab hole, push the door up and tighten. That might do it. I also noticed that the red lights on the bed fenders are added. The speakers are obviously custom. Can u tell us more about the yellow/red wires under the hood?

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Did an off site search for the Hinge pin bushing repair.  ( the search bar sent me there )  I found some info and copied and pasted...  Can anyone confirm this as correct info ?

 

Parts
  • Nissan Upper/Lower
    • NAPA PN 675-5157 One pin and two bushings $5.00
    • HELP by Motormite PN 38397 One pin and two bushings $4.00
      • Bushing ID .315"
      • Bushing OD .397"
      • Pin OD .313"
  • Universal
    • HELP by Motormite PN 38400 One pin & 4 bushings $4.00
      • Bushing applications listed are 84-60 GM cars & trucks. This kit has 2 sets of bushings, one is oversized OD for worn hinges. The oversized bushings have knurling on the OD. You could remove the knurling with a file or other method to have 2 sets of bushings for the price of 1 set in the Nissan kits.
      • Bushing ID 5/16" (.312")
      • Bushing OD 13/32" (.406")
      • Pin application 84-73 GM cars & trucks.
      • Pin OD 5/16" (.312")

The HELP brand is sold by Pep Boys and AutoZone. The NAPA and HELP Nissan kit pins are 2.85" long, the HELP universal pin is 4-1/8", If your pins are too worn, you could cut the kit pins to length and bevel the end like the OEM pin, however the factory pins can usually be reused as the plastic bushings are usually th point of failure.

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Truck looks solid. Distributor looks stock / has points.Looks like the L 16 intake & exhaust manifolds were used (good thing)& I bet the paint will buff out. If you want to sell the visor im interested.

Cool, thanks.  I will let you know if I sell. 

 

 

 

Here's a link to a page i started for ease. Has links and tips of my build. https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1854433418114441&tsid=0.6043605105951428&source=typeahead

 

 I will check the link red13, thanks.

 

 

Before u buy an hinge kit, I would simply loosen the 3 pins in the cab hole, push the door up and tighten. That might do it. I also noticed that the red lights on the bed fenders are added. The speakers are obviously custom. Can u tell us more about the yellow/red wires under the hood?

 

Good info !  Will try that with the door. 

The wires are unknown at the moment.  I haven't had a chance to chase anything down.  But I do know my Wife's Grandfather put an auxilary fuel pump with shut off that is attached to the fuel cell in the bed of the truck. 

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Is it possible he ran the fuel cell for extra mileage? In this case the switch would help isolate one tank at a time and the fuel pump help when feeding from the fuel cell. But regardless, the fuel tank being mounted higher than the pump should be more then enough to require a secondary pump...

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Once I start tearing into this I will know for sure.

Cleaning it out today I saw a shut off switch under the passenger side seat.  Looking underneath I saw the additional filter and possible pump.  Its located between the frame and rocker.  It was a quick look as I was only cleaning out today and didn't pay too much attention to his "additions".

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Had some time today to work on the truck.

 

Removed all the rubber lines for fuel, water and vacume and went to my local Napa to replace.

Was succesful except for the top and bottom radiator hoses.    I need to look online I guess. ??

 

Took the Weber apart and let it soak in carb dip. 

The carb was GUMMY !!  and the lovely smell of OLD Gas, aka that varnish smell wreaks on my hands now. 

Good times.

 

The carb rebuild kit arrives tomorrow, so that should be done.

 

Also picked up a new belt, some new plugs, wires, rotor.  Napa didn't have the cap or points. ( another online order )

 

Motor turned over easy and the oil looks clean like it was just changed ! 

Not sure if I should attempt to turn it over with the old ( New looking ) oil or dump it and add fresh oil.

 

Thats all for today.  Tomorrow I hope I have more progress.

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Change out the 7 year old oil.  It will help lubricate the valvetrain and prevent whatever got into the oil pan from circulating.  

 

Prime the oil system (crank the engine with the ignition coil wire removed), valve cover open so you can see the top end getting oil BEFORE starting it.  I've watched plenty of people skip this step and destroy engines with the little bit of rust that develops from sitting, then chew up the bearings with no oil. 

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Change out the 7 year old oil.  It will help lubricate the valvetrain and prevent whatever got into the oil pan from circulating.  

 

Prime the oil system (crank the engine with the ignition coil wire removed), valve cover open so you can see the top end getting oil BEFORE starting it.  I've watched plenty of people skip this step and destroy engines with the little bit of rust that develops from sitting, then chew up the bearings with no oil. 

 

Good advice.  Was planning on priming system ahead of time, but Did not think about pulling valve cover though.  Is there a gasket ?  And is it reusable ?  If not, I will order one up ASAP.

 

 

Edit: Found two styles on Rock auto.  

 

Cork like I am used to. 

Fel-Pro ... rubber material. 

 

What is everyone using ???

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