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Identify Distributor


iancshafer

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Likely from an L20B, maybe an L18 and I think they are all the same  21162-U6001 Just ask for a cap for a '79 200sx and you'll get it.

 

But to be sure..... Look on the side of the casting and find the stamped part number 22100-????? With this I can identify exactly what it was from.

 

 

For example 22100-W5801 was used in the '79 S10 (200sx) and the '79 A10 (PL510)

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Good question. That would be a lot of distributors as there were differences between models even in the same year then all California were different from federal. And it's all about emission changes.

 

This list is not complete... http://www.newprotest.org/projects/510/dizzy_specs.htm

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  • 7 years later...

D4A2-01

312

 

Cant find any other identifying numbers. It’s a larger cap distributor. What it came out of would help. Would be great to have the mechanical and vacuum advance numbers. 
Can’t find it in the distributor list datzenmike has referenced here before. 
Do you know if the vacuum pot from a point distributor interchanges with a matchbox distributor?


 

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22100-????? is the part number, this I can easily look up. D4A2-01 I have to look at every distributor and sometimes the D4A2-01 is listed, mostly they are not.

 

 

22100-B9802 is the matchbox EI distributor used on the California and Federal emissions '79 620 and the California emissions '80 720 L20Bs.

 

D4A2-01? I have a D4A2-1 a single points distributor for an L18 '73 and L20B '74 610. 22100-U6001

 

The vacuum advance will likely swap but every one is different for all the different emissions requirements vehicle weight, blah blah, blah. A working one is better than none at all.

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Thanks Mike. Can’t find any 22100-***** number stamped in the D4A2-01 distributor. 
 

Also have this distributor. D4F7-02,  22100-B900. Can’t find it in the distributor list. It’s a EI distributor with the separate box, not matchbox. 
 

Trying to work out best distributor for my use. I read the matchbox is best but it this one has the worst vacuum advance coming in too early and too much, causing part throttle pinging when cruising. 
 

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The Remote Igniter is the EI with the separate box. The Matchbox is just the box that has been miniaturized and mounted on the side of the distributor.

 

There is a 22100-B9900.... there are always 5 number letter combinations after the 22100. 3s can be mistaken for 8s, 5s for 6s. it's hard to read them. Could there be two 9s? B9900 is a '78 620 truck with California manual or camper emissions.

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Correct again Mike. I left out a number when typing. It is B9900. 
It has the least amount of vacuum advance movement and is require the most vacuum to activate. Which seems correct for the application with a lot of load you said it’s listed for. 
 

The B9802 has the most amount of advance and requires the least amount of vacuum to activate. This is the one that’s giving me the off idle pinging while cruising I’m experiencing. 
 

The D4A2-01 seems to be in the middle between the three as far as the vacuum advance. 
 

Just applying suction to the vacuum pot and observing movement. No definitive testing to get accurat readings. 
 

Someone local has a distributor machine but it can’t do EI distributors, only points. 

Guess I have to play swapping distributors. Seems the points one would be a good choice but have buy a coil and ballast resistor to try it. 
 

The web.archive.org site that has Electronic Ignition Distributer FAQ for Datsun L-series Engines talks about adjusting the vacuum pot to change amount of vacuum required to activate. Don’t know if I want to venture down that road without any accurate way to see what changes it’s doing. 

 

 

 

 

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hainz, 

Had already run with vacuum advance disconnected and it eliminated the part throttle pinging at cruise.
 

Mike,

Swapped the vacuum advance pot from the D4A2-01 onto the matchbox I’ve been running. What a difference! No more cruise pinging, much better acceleration and better overall running. 
 

The vacuum advance specs are completely controlled by the vacuum advance pot and amount of advance is not adjustable at all unless you took the unit apart which would destroy it. As I mentioned in my previous post, I’ve read where if you grind the epoxy nub off the pot there’s a set screw in there that can adjust the amount of vacuum required to activate it. Didn’t want to mess with that without someway of knowing how much things were changing. 

Car is running great now with no pinging. 

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