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1973 620 KA24DE build


Volition73

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Nice truck, and best factory color, not that I'm biased.  If you plan on using the 240 trans be aware that it will require some modification of the cross-member, but the factory 620 mount fits.

IMG_20150825_201639451_zpslnlr72v9.jpg

 

If you don't mind spending the extra coin on a new harness I say go for it. If you want to try and save some I would check the facebook machine for a "[nearest metropolitan area] drift parts" group. That is where I found my KA, harness and ECU for $100.  Drifter kids are good at stuffing their cars into things and needing to part them out for quick cash.

 

Good luck with the build.

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Thought I posted already, but maybe not.

 

Why would you steer clear of the FB Ratsun page? I understand it's not affiliated with this site, but it is still filled with information and good people. It's just a page with like minded Datsun folk. Just happens to use the name Ratsun.

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Thought I posted already, but maybe not.

 

Why would you steer clear of the FB Ratsun page? I understand it's not affiliated with this site, but it is still filled with information and good people. It's just a page with like minded Datsun folk. Just happens to use the name Ratsun.

red headed step children should be avoided like the plague. But if you want to play with them, go to town, all yours
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Thought I posted already, but maybe not.

 

Why would you steer clear of the FB Ratsun page? I understand it's not affiliated with this site, but it is still filled with information and good people. It's just a page with like minded Datsun folk. Just happens to use the name Ratsun.

 

It doesn't just _happen_ to have the same name....

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The facebook thing is alright. The main problem is it's not a searchable tech site like the forums, secondary would be the extremes (nice guy to asshole quotient) posting and whether or not posted information is accurate.  

 

 

 

Looking forward to seeing this motor in that truck :D

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UnderControl, thanks for the info on the transmission, what did you have to do to get it to fit? I haven't put eyes on mine yet to see what it will take..that picture is pretty clean too..Thank you! I have a harness and ECU from the salvage yard, if it looks clean enough I'll use it...Good idea though for searching, thanks!

 

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UnderControl, thanks for all the help! I've been keeping up with your build..Basically the same path ahead of me, so thanks for making it easy! No updates for now, holidays have slowed me down..but I did see these and thought they were kinda cool for the "rat" look...should fit too...

 

http://www.carid.com/1990-bmw-3-series-headlights/redline-lumtronix-rat-rod-round-halo-headlights-73776473.html

 

lights_zpsnwduvkqc.png

 

They would be cooler without the holes...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick Update...Wow, it's been fun trying to get a title for this thing...It's a pretty long story and it's full of tons of paperwork and phone calls...but I should get the final piece of paper this week that will allow me to title it...That and my daily took crap on me so I had to postpone anything up until now...I have a video of the L16 running and the compression numbers below (I always do at least 2 checks per cylinder)...I plan to try to sell it since it's a running engine with healthy looking numbers...I'll be posting it up when I am closer to pulling it, but if anyone is interested let me know..Pics and a video to follow...

 

#1 - 169/173 psi

#2 - 160/162 psi

#3 - 160/161 psi

#4 - 161/163 psi

 

So an average of 163...From what I can find on the L16, that is decent for a healthy engine...Might be loud, so watch your speaker...No muffler right now, it fell off on the way home!

 

Plugs look alright...

 

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Found this under the seats, and it works!!

 

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Gonna need new floors...

 

20160117_170558_zps2nyd6cza.jpg

 

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Good thing it's not too bad, good metal to latch on to

 

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20160117_170636_zpshab2denw.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Quick update...

 

Ordered the mount kit from ]2eDeYe last night and got the rear window rubber from Rockauto the other day...Gonna be looking to get the CAN Box soon too...Anyone got a suggestion for a good sounding exhaust? I do NOT want a fart can sound, what are you KA swap guys running?

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Build List - Goal is a SAFE tune up to 300 RWHP on 93 pump gas...I am open to advice on better parts, or how OEM or other parts from other cars can get me there...Also, this is a work in progress, I am certain I have missed some things...I'll update as I learn...I am mostly looking on KA-T.org...Also, if you recommend any other companies or websites let me know! Or ones to avoid for that matter too...


Engine


Cleaned, surfaces addressed as required, bored .20 over if needed,  rotating assembly balanced and anything else recommended


Rotating Assembly

Stock Crank - cleaned and balanced as mentioned above
Eagle Forged H-Beam Rods w/ARP Bolts - Enjuku - $350
Wiseco Pistons - After research it seems that 8.8:1 will be the best for on and off boost, but this area has me stuck and I've been advised that anything under 9 is pretty safe from detonation
ATI Engine Damper - Enjuku - $637 or $505 on Real Street Performance (Seems this is overkill for my street application so I might pass)
*Real Street Performance has many rod/piston combos for a good price, so maybe I'll find a deal there...

Block Hardware/Misc

ARP Main Studs -
Clevite Rod and Main Bearings - Enjuku - $85
Freeze Plug Set - Rock Auto - $10
ER Exhaust Manifold Studs (Grade 8.8) - Enjuku - $50
Xcessive PS/AC Delete - Enjuku - $135
OEM Gasket Set - Enjuku - $200 or $185 from Frsport
Crankshaft Seal - Rock Auto - $10
OEM Water Pump - Real Street Performance - $89 or $70 off of Thenismoshop
ARP Head Stud Kit - Enjuku - $140
OEM Oil Filter - Enjuku - $10
ISR 7 Layer Exhaust Manifold Gasket - Enjuku - $25
ISR Thermostat (opens at 60 degrees) - Enjuku - $35
OEM Timing Chain kit - Thenismoshop - $325
ISR Magnetic Oil Drain Plug - Enjuku - 15$
Late 620 Rubber Engine Bushings - Rock Auto - $15

Head/Intake/Fuel/Cooling

Stock Head - Cleaned up, maybe port/polish, parts replaced as required
Stock Intake Manifold - EGR Deleted
Stock Cams - Told these are plenty for my desired power and will retain the low end torque
ERG Block Off Plate - ISR - Enjuku - $15
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit - Enjuku - $270
ISR OE Z32 MAF - Enjuku - $110
Fuel Pump - Inline Walboro 225 - $$?
Injectors - 550s are what I have been told I need - Anyone have a good brand?
Stock tank cleaned/sealed/painted - Really want to put a fuel cell in the spare tire location, that weight will be better there anyway
Inline Clear Fuel Filters - Need to find
Adjustable Dual Electric Fan Thermostat Kit - Enjuku - $90
Electric Fan - Need to find a set up
Oil Cooler Kit - Still Looking
Stock Radiator for now - need to figure out piping

Exhaust/Turbo - Still under tons of research

Turbo Manifold - need to find, probably a top mount from what I have seen
Turbo - Ha, still looking..been advised that a T3/T04 will be a good choice but I need to look into it
Full 3 inch exhaust, no cat, nice muffler...
Intercooler - Whatever makes sense for quality/price and fitment...But I do like one from Mishimoto - $225
Piping and Clamps - Custom, definitely going to get quality parts here...
Waste Gate - ??
Blow Off Valve - ??
Oil Bung welded into Oil Pan - easy, just have to find a local shop to do it
Turbo Oil Drain braided steel line - make one

Engine Management/Sensors/Ignition/Electrics

NGK Plug Wires - Enjuku - $70
ISR OE Knock Sensor - Enjuku - $40
Stock ECU  on hand for tune - Going to go with RS-Enthalpy - $400
Grounding Kit - ??
Upgraded Alternator to 1997 Nissan Quest alternator 100 amp (might be able to find a 125...) Rock Auto - $115
Gauges - I have some in mind...
Can Am Box - Need to order
Spark Plugs - I assume NGKs, I'll get what makes sense
Distributor - Still looking, I have read the stock set up is fine up to 500 hp with a good tuner

Clutch/Drivetrain

Competition Clutch - "WHITE BUNNY" Upgrade kit w/Flywheel w/ARP - Enjuku - $380
OEM Master and Slave (truck slave) - Rock Auto - $??
All Braided Steel Line - Enjuku - $50
B&M Short Shifter (Came with my transmission)
Transmission Rebuilt - Local Shop - $750
Custom Drive Shaft and New U Joint connections - Gotta figure this one out still
Transmission installation figured out...Sounds easy enough

Suspension/Brakes//Wheels

Titan Rims - Have, just need to pick them up
Tires - Maybe Sumitomo HRT Z III 225/40ZR18 - Tire Rack - $425 for a set
6mm Wheel spacers (trying to find something other than aluminum as I have read they can crack)
Longer Studs
Lug nuts - some sweet tuner color...lol
Brakes upgraded - This is on hold until I decide on the suspension...Probably going to get BeeBani's coilover/upper and lower control arm set up, and his brake kit..From what I have read that will clear up space for the exhaust...
Center Link and other clearance issues figured out...goferit tapers welded in for the center link flip if I don't do the above setup
If I do get BeeBani's set up, I'll go the QA-1 route, maybe throw some airbags in the back

Misc

Fix all rust - so the floors and under the doors
Paint the truck
Polish all Glass
All new Weather Stripping
Truck Rewired - up to $450 for a universal kit from American Auto Wire
All Lights upgraded - Headlights, brakes...etc
Refinish Interior - So seats, head liner, door panels, dash..etc...
Radio set up - Don't worry, I'm not gonna drag my frame or load the bed with 6 x 15 inch square sub woofers and all the amps to power it strapped to the roof to show it off...

 

 

 

That's it for now! I added this to the beginning of this thread too...









 

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Look at Subaru 2.5L turbo injectors. Stock are 550cc and run around $100 a set of four. Fit on stock fuel rail but require pigtails from the Subaru. By using the stock fuel rail and fpr, you can skip the aeromotive fpr. I would look at a standalone engine management as it allows for more tunability, for the price of the enthalpy tune you can get a MSII. And you can switch from the shitty maf to a map sensor.

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That's a good list. I'd say save some money and do the junk yard KA power steering delete, cost you about $10.

 

Local dive shaft shop should be able to do a 1 piece steel shaft for around $400. 

 

Based on my clearance with a 2.5" exhaust a 3" will be questionable with torsion bars still in place.

 

+1 on MS or other stand alone. My favorite part of this route is being able to swap out the stock dizzy for coil packs, not because needed, but because maxima coils clean it up.

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