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Datsun 520 cylinder head stud/blown head gasket


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I've blown the head gasket twice now on my '68 520.  The most recent head gasket lasted 200 miles and blew big time.  My theory is I need new cylinder head studs.  Mine are fairly corroded and could use replacing anyway.   I've also pressure tested the cylinder head, which passed.

 

Question 1: Fair assessment?  Or should I be looking at something else too?

 

Question 2: Where can I buy cylinder head studs for a J13?  ARP doesn't make them.  Any interchangeable parts I should know about?

 

I've had this poor truck for only a year now and I've MAYBE put 500 miles on it.  She spends more time on the lift than on the road.

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Next time it is apart, check both the block, and the head for flatness.

I am not sure if the J-13 uses Metric or English measurements.  The engine, I believe, is basically a copy of a British MG design, and may be you can use parts for a MG engine.

Another option is to put a L-16 engine and transmission in to the 520.  If you do this, try to also get the 521/L-16 rear differential, the gear ratios are different.

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Have to go with Daniel on this. Aluminum heads. If over heated they can warp. Aluminum expands twice as much as iron and steel. A shop can fly-cut it enough to level it without changing it much... maybe $50. Less likely the block but not impossible. Both surfaces must be clean enough to eat off of. Head gasket goes on dry, no sealer.

 

Final torque is I think, so check... 36-43 ft lbs. Basically start tightening the bolts in the middle and work your way out.

 

R....A.... D

 

.......15..13

11...10

.............. 9

5..... 4

...............1

3..... 2

.............. 6

8..... 7

............ 12

..... 14

 

 

I would use the sequence above and torque all bolts to 20 ft lbs. then start over and final torque to 36-43

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Run an ad in the 'Classified' page for cylinder head studs for a J or E series engine. Someone on the left coast is bound to have some of this laying around in the shed. Run a tap in all the holes to clean them out and brush or run a die on the studs. Be sure the head is flat and look for old corrosion/pitting between the cylinders on block & head. Wouldn't hurt to get the head dusted off by a motor shop while you have it off. Probably doesn't need material removed, just a good cleanup and flatness insure. Torque the head down in proper order and lb/ft, & you should be set up to cruise.

 

You might need to post a few more times to be able to run an ad ??? Mike or someone can inform if there's still a minimum post requirement.

 

Steve

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