DrvnDrvr Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Has anyone used rust converter rather than using mechanical/chemical methods? These Datsuns get rust in the damnedest, least accessible places. While my '83 720 is mostly intact, I found there is rust in the radiator support where it's spot welded to the frame support. I started grinding and wire brushing with naval jelly to get rid of it but found that I would F/U the structural integrity if I got too carried away. I'm thinking that using a rust converter and putting a good encapsulating primer and paint job on it will be better than boning the spot welds. The area I'm trying to restore includes the battery support. My questions are, Is there a good procedural online write up on rust converters? Anyone had good results with rust converters ? I'm using PlasiCote Rust Converter to test for results and educate myself. Any input would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Rust is the only thing holding it together? I imagine the instructions for rust converter say to remove loose rust and scale then paint over. https://www.theruststore.com/Article.aspx?WebpageId=48 Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Rust converter just converts rust to a different color.The bad metal will still be there. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 More than color, it chemically changes it too. 2 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 I used Eastwoods rust converter. Every where there was rust, it turned to a darker color. After awhile the areas with bare metal flake off and areas that were rust, turn back to metal. All I did was Wire brush the loose areas, clean and spray. To finish up, im using Eastwoods rust encapsulator over all After sprayed Finished area for now. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 I bought a 1970 Datsun 521 from a guy that had sat outside for quite a while in the late summer/early fall of 2008, they had sanded all the paint off of the front fenders and doors, and then let it set outside, the truck had a lot of surface rust, I treated it with a couple coats of extends rust converter, here is what it looked like in Jan of 2009. Here is what it looks like now in late 2015. It has a slight tint of rust color in the fenders after 6 years outside in the weather, the doors did better for some reason, I didn't sand it or any other prep, I just put the rust converter on it to keep it from getting any worse, it seems to have worked great, it definitely has not deteriorated the metal any more than it already was. The product called extends that I used claimed it was a sealer/primer that could be painted over, I just never got around to dealing with it. 4 Quote Link to comment
arizonajones Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Wayno! You're back! Welcome :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
DaBlist Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 The Eastwood product is Tannic Acid and works well but pricey, you don't get a lot of liquid in an aerosol can. Many body shops use metal prep products after sanding bare metal and rust that use Phosphoric acid which is the active ingredient in Rust-Mort and lots of other rust converters. I stopped buying the Eastwood and buy Phosphoric acid by the gallon at Home Depot. You get a whole gallon for less than one spray can of the Eastwood, dilute it with water and brush or wipe it on 3 Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 The Eastwood product is Tannic Acid and works well but pricey, you don't get a lot of liquid in an aerosol can. Many body shops use metal prep products after sanding bare metal and rust that use Phosphoric acid. I stopped buying the Eastwood and buy Phosphoric acid by the gallon at Home Depot. You get a whole gallon for less than one spray can of the Eastwood, dilute it with water and brush or wipe it on Ratsun. Where rust converter comes by the gallon... 3 Quote Link to comment
DrvnDrvr Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Thanks for all the info. How fumey, flamable, caustic-skin, nose, and lungwise is this stuff? Right now central Oregon is gettin down to single digits at night so any "in garage work" has to be bodily friendly. BTW, I heat with a woodstove and I don't want to blow up my second favorite room. Read the label and there doesn't appear to be any flammability warnings. Is it temperature sensitive? I'm doing the chassis and underhood areas. I used 6 cans of degreaser and a powerwasher on the engine comparment and chassis. I'm thinking of using this with POR 15 Top Coat Black chassis paint on it all. What do you all think? TIA. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Wayno! You're back! Welcome :thumbup: Indeed your 521 info was sorely missed. Quote Link to comment
DaBlist Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Thanks for all the info. How fumey, flamable, caustic-skin, nose, and lungwise is this stuff? Right now central Oregon is gettin down to single digits at night so any "in garage work" has to be bodily friendly. BTW, I heat with a woodstove and I don't want to blow up my second favorite room. You need good ventilation for doing large areas. In the winter when I don't want the garage door open I use it right before I'm leaving the garage. 1 Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Ooh this is a golden nugget of information Quote Link to comment
maswov Posted April 25, 2016 Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 I saw a video where a guy restored an old cast iron skilled. He tried a few different methods and in the end apple cider vinegar came out on top for rust removal. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 I saw a video where a guy restored an old cast iron skilled. He tried a few different methods and in the end apple cider vinegar came out on top for rust removal. My mother and Grandmother always said that a new, repeat NEW, cast iron fry pan needed to be seasoned! Their version was to scrub the hell out of the store bought pan, rinse as though you were baptising the Devil and then put some water, salt, turnip greens and bacon in the pan, Heat until the water evaporates! Let it cool! Wipe the frypan and never wash it again! Especially NEVER use soap on it again! That's why you should always preheat a cast iron frypan, and remember a hot pan and then cold olive oil or bacon grease means that what you are cooking will not stick! The residual bacon grease also is the perfect base for real Irish Soda Bread! It was a no brainer to slaughter and smoke the excess pig, the cow was too valuable to waste on the dinner plate. By the way, although my Mother and Grandmother insisted that their families only ate meat at Easter and Christmas, the admitted that "you can't eat just boiled cabbage and potatoes, you need to add a little smoked Irish Bacon to it" so there! Irish bacon includes the "tenderloin" as well as the brisket and is really quite good! Quote Link to comment
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