5280Datsun Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I have been researching here for a few days and I think that my clutch is going; 4speed, A14, 67,000 original miles and no clutch work yet, plus been sitting for 10+ years. It's not too bad, but I notice it from take off and up hills (also a bit at high way / city speeds) , the RPMs sound like they are going up (not a ton, but up) more than the car is moving and there is not much acceleration. If I let off the gas in gear, the RPMS level out and I can slowly depress the gas and putts along. When I take off, the RPMS rev car moves, but slowly, and then seems to catch and go faster. I just want to make sure that these are symptoms of a clutch and not a trans component like an adjust or a slave cylinder. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Drive to an open area. Make sure there is nothing on front of you. Put in fourth gear. Rev the engine up, hold it there with the on brake, Dump the clutch. Does it die immediately? It should. If it takes a bit to slow the engine and then die... your clutch is worn and slipping. 2 Quote Link to comment
5280Datsun Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Drive to an open area. Make sure there is nothing on front of you. Put in fourth gear. Rev the engine up, hold it there with the on brake, Dump the clutch. Does it die immediately? It should. If it takes a bit to slow the engine and then die... your clutch is worn and slipping. ON IT! Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Since it sat for a while, make sure the system is bled and in good working order. Watch while someone operates the clutch, does the fork return all the way. Crack the bleeder and watch for any movement of the clutch fork, movement indicates residual pressure in the system or the bearing collar may be gunked up. I had issues like this that turned out to be adjustment and built up residue in the collar, the clutch was fine but the rpms would do as you described. After adjusting the rods for master and slave cylinders to correct length and removing, cleaning, lightly greasing inside the bearing collar, the clutch works perfectly. The pedal is nice and light and it hooks up hard, smoky burnouts are quite possible. Try these before buying anything, they're free. 1 Quote Link to comment
5280Datsun Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Drive to an open area. Make sure there is nothing on front of you. Put in fourth gear. Rev the engine up, hold it there with the on brake, Dump the clutch. Does it die immediately? It should. If it takes a bit to slow the engine and then die... your clutch is worn and slipping. Did this when the trans and motor were warmed, seems to be worse then, and it did not die but rather slowly rev'd... Damn. Since it sat for a while, make sure the system is bled and in good working order. Watch while someone operates the clutch, does the fork return all the way. Crack the bleeder and watch for any movement of the clutch fork, movement indicates residual pressure in the system or the bearing collar may be gunked up. I had issues like this that turned out to be adjustment and built up residue in the collar, the clutch was fine but the rpms would do as you described. After adjusting the rods for master and slave cylinders to correct length and removing, cleaning, lightly greasing inside the bearing collar, the clutch works perfectly. The pedal is nice and light and it hooks up hard, smoky burnouts are quite possible. Try these before buying anything, they're free. I will try this, since it can't hurt anything. THANKS! Quote Link to comment
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