Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I meant the aftermarket one, goes on pulley, or balanced cranks i see sell for around $200 which im pretty sure is built into the crank pully right? Ka24de is my opinion, dont listen to rumors, they rev fine, if u wanna live at high rpms just get a harmonic balancer KA's do vibrate, you just may not feel it. The insides tear themselves apart and they can break cranks. The full race KA's use good dampers to stay alive, like one from Fluidampr. But that's a whole can of worms as all the pulleys must be custom fabbed to fit. Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Is a harmonic balancer and damper the same thing? Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Pricy but worth it, bolts right up to ka 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Yes, more or less they resist torsional or twisting motion around the crankshaft axis. The twisting motion is most pronounced farthest from the transmission end of an engine. 2 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 The charger is at my uncles. I can't sell. I like it too much. The thing is not streetable at all and the engine smokes like a bitch now. And I'm not about to say what I want to do with my car. I'm looking for something fun to do and something different. So ka. Is it worth finding a 91-98 ka or just any? And what gave the 91-98 ka a few extra horse power? Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Is this the yellow datsun that keeps up with the datsloco crowd on the fun runs? Lol i hear good stories, props Depending on budget u can probably get a ka barb'd and pass smog and all 2 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Is this the yellow datsun that keeps up with the datsloco crowd on the fun runs? Lol i hear good stories, props Depending on budget u can probably get a ka barb'd and pass smog and all Yep this is Shelby the misfit. Runs hard and loses it in the corners but since I drive it in the hills all the time I got used to it sliding a little. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 1 Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I'd say KA-T Lz's are great sounding and great to look at, but more money to make hp vs KA. If you balance a KA and put a good damper like above on it, and put some nice light and strong rods and pistons in it, it'll turn 8000. Your not going to turn a hopped up stroker lz more than that anyway. Mine will turn 8000 but isn't Makin any power there. My balanced lz with a z22 crank/ ATI super damper combo if definitely smoother at high rpm than the stock l20b.. when I balanced it, it was only off about 6 grams or so on each end which isn't that bad. On the other hand, the flywheel was out a ton. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Shoot for a single cam. Dollar for dollar, E is better bang for your buck. With the same money spent on an E vs. DE, you will make more power with the E, unless going turbo. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 So ka. Is it worth finding a 91-98 ka or just any? And what gave the 91-98 ka a few extra horse power? '89-'90 S13 were KA24E (12 valve ) heavy block and crank girdle 225mm clutch '90-'97 D21 were KA24E (12 valve ) 240mm clutch '91-'94 S13 were KA24DE (16 valve) heavy block and crank girdle 225mm clutch '95-'98 S14 were KA24DE (16 valve) heavy block and crank girdle 225mm clutch '98 and up D21 were KA24DE (16 valve) heavy block 240mm clutch The DE makes maybe 10 HP more than the E, probably the better breathing 4 valves per cylinder. Ten hp isn't near enough reason to run it over the other. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 The thing is not streetable at all... Its suprising what some people can street. Quote Link to comment
Rick-rat Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 The charger is at my uncles. The thing is not streetable This is the best reason to make it your race car. When I raced in the 70's and 80's I used "race cars", not the cars I drove and depended on all the time. But it is obvious no one can tell you anything, so go ahead and fuck up your Datsun Quote Link to comment
Rick-rat Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 [/url Must be a race car. I can tell by the fancy seats and the racing seat belt and shoulder harness set up I put racing 3 in lap belt and 2 in wide shoulder harness in my truck. Not racing seats but larger than stock bucket seats. had to go with lap belt and harness to get my seats to go back far enough, stock retractor prevented them from moving back. So do I have a race truck now? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 like a bossss Yep this is Shelby the misfit. Runs hard and loses it in the corners but since I drive it in the hills all the time I got used to it sliding a little. Why would it do that??? If you spend so much time, and presumably like driving, why not fix this and keep up??? Lower the car, excessive over steer has causes that can be cured..... larger front (only) sway bar/ remove rear bar, stiffer front springs, firmer front shocks.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Stop calling it a 510 unless you really have a 510. It's an A10 so call it an A10. So how does that engine run now after spinning the rod bearings and scoring the crank? Is this why the talk about a 'race engine'? Actually Mike you and I were wrong. The bearings never spun. And the crank was smooth. It wasn't the bearing by the way. I wasn't wrong I was only going by what you told me about your clearances. So you measured then incorrectly??? Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 No they were out but. There weren't any marks and the hearings were intact. I made a rookie mistake on what the sound was. Now I'm going to tell you what it was. But flat all at back off and if I hear about it after this canby won't be very fun. Now like I told Mike. After it popped out of hear getting on the freeway it redlined. Not long but long enough to make a matalic metal on metal sound. I get home. I hear it coming from the top end. I check the valves clearance. All good. It was only when accelerating. I pull the wires one by one and #1 cylinder when disconnected made the sound stop. So I figured "must be the bearings or pin. I pulled the pan. Replaced the hearings. Started it up and it still clicked. Now I'm mad. I pulled the head pulled the crank pulled the Pistons. Take them to the machine shop. Got the crank ground down because the mains were out of spec. I got the head rebuilt and new valves because they were bad. Checked the Pistons. All good now right? Put it all together mad as hell because i just rebuilt the damn thing less then 5,000 miles ago. Not the head but the block. I put it it back in the car. Started it up. And still clicking. Louder. I said fuck it and drove it that way for a week What was the clicking sound? The fucking fastener for the flare tube that goes into the exhaust. Just every time it fired on 1 it would slide a little and make a ticking sound. that fucker was rusted to the manifold when I got it. Now it comes loss?! Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Oh dear.... Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 stethoscope might have helped maybe. 1 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 What the fuck is going on here?? 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Everyone is building race cars. 5 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 What the fuck is going on here?? You saw nothing. You were never here Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Must be a race car. I can tell by the fancy seats and the racing seat belt and shoulder harness set up I put racing 3 in lap belt and 2 in wide shoulder harness in my truck. Not racing seats but larger than stock bucket seats. had to go with lap belt and harness to get my seats to go back far enough, stock retractor prevented them from moving back. So do I have a race truck now? About those. I got rear ended and it broke my seat so i needed new one. Since I had the money at the time and I'm always driving in the hills figured it would be good to put a harness. Quote Link to comment
Rick-rat Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I prefer the harness set up too, more likely to use than the regular seat belts my shoulder harness is routed under the head rest between the posts so only way to get them out of the way is wear them 1 Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 The thing is not streetable at all... Its suprising what some people can street. My gramps was just telling me they had a street car shoot out at the drag strip. Old boy drove his car to the track, ran 6.xxx secs at 200 some oodd mph and drove it home. Street legal 1 Quote Link to comment
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