Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 That sounds more practical to me. Obviously I don't need a gigantic intercooler on the front of my car, nor do I want one, but how would I go about mounting the oil cooler? Is it best to put it outside the car like on the front bumper then intercooler? That makes sense to me since the oil gets the hottest and needs more cooler air running through it... Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Look to the turbo oe designs to see what is most important for longevity and power. Heat is always the enemy, but some things make more important differences than others. These are listed in order of importance. Proper system design will have huge effects on efficiency and heat generation, so that's actually the most important. Turbo size, Wastegate size, piping diameter, cold air intake etc. Increase efficiency, reduce boost pressure and achieve the same power. None of the stuff people have listed technically increase power. They reduce detonation, so you can push harder, which makes more power. 1. Oil and water cooled turbo. Older turbos and many cheap ones aren't water cooled. Get one that is. 2. Intercooler. Bigger is not always better. Pressure drop from one side to the other can be a large amount. Size this to your build. 3. Oil cooler. Where the first two help control intake air charge temperature, this helps control engine temperature. its attacking the heat problem from another side. Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Right. I'm trying to build something that will be fun to drive, but I don't want to blow it up. This isn't an ls1 or a 350sbc, it's an l28, and in Arizona it's not easy finding blocks and heads Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 So lockleaf, I want to build a carbureted blow through turbo l28 that will be running 10psi and driven on the street, track, long trips, etc. I'm looking to spend around 1500-2000 on this build as far as the motor goes. I'm going to do a smaller intercooler and a small oil cooler and I will try to find an oil cooled turbo. I want an oil cooled turbo because I've seen the inside of the water jackets in a water cooled turbo and it looks horrible. Oil cooled, imo, is a better choice. The intake I'm not even worried about, I've got a few people here that have done Holley blow throughs on small blocks and inline 6s. It's the actual turbo part that I need to know what these motors can take and how to keep it cool Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 You have your turbo cooling info backward. All turbos are "oil cooled" by the oil that is lubricating them. These turbos are known for a problem called coking, where oil turns to scary tar and destroys the guts. Newer turbos are both oil cooled and water cooled. The water keeps the temperature of the turbo way down and significantly helps in the prevention of oil coking. This also has the additional benefit of keeping the air charge a little cooler. The turbo won't impart quite as much heat to the air. You want the water cooling. If you think water jackets are scary, look up oil coking. Then lookup Lee Iacocca and why he insisted that factory turbo charged cars had to have water cooling. Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I'll look that up. I'm new to the turbo game lol Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Just snag a factory L28et manifold, oil pan, turbo and oil feed/drain lines, its already for that motor.You can just mount your oil cooler with the radiator, hanging it off the bumper on street cars is just style. Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 The trick is finding an l28et in Phoenix. Or Tucson. This ain't the coast haha we don't have datsuns just floating around out here. Let alone turbo 280zxs Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Craig's list turned up an l28et swap for 1500. If I had that money I'd get it lol. Full motor, harness and ecu Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 So I have decided that I will be doing this build over time. Buy the parts as I save for them seeing as I have a ton of bills, but in the mean time I will be doing other fun things like fabrication work and maybe make some goodies for everyone on here if they have an interest. But for now the turbo build will be pieced together from parts I buy individually. It come out as more expensive but I will try to find deals where I can. I'll keep you guys posted in the thread I start. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 since your going carbed you dont need half the stock stuff.just need the turbo related things, feed line, manifold, oil pan, ect. Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 So what's the difference between the stock oil pan and a turbo oil pan? I'm assuming there's a pick up or an inlet going to it but what exactly is the difference? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 in the last pic the black pan is a 240/60z pan Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Okay so question. If I cannot find a turbo oil pan, could I drill out my oil pan and add a nipple like an an-6 to the pan? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 i read that the turbo block has a slightly longer pick up tube so if you found a turbo pan, you might need the pick up tube... "If i'm not mistaken then the rusty one is a ZX pan, what is important is the ZX pan requires a longe oil pick up" Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Okay so question. If I cannot find a turbo oil pan, could I drill out my oil pan and add a nipple like an an-6 to the pan? yes as this should only be a return line under no pressure Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 That makes more sense to me honestly. Cheaper too. So is that the only difference? Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Yes, its just a gravity drain line. only reason for changing or modifying the pan. the oil going into the turbo needs to drain back into the pan. Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Then I don't really need a "factory turbo oil pan" is what I'm understanding. Are these oil pans steel or aluminum? 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 steel and no keep your pan and add a bung, some would say get it tig welded in others woud just use bolts gaskets and maybe high heat lock tight, Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I'll tig it lol I'm going into tig next faze in school so it'll give me a project 1 Quote Link to comment
Keep them Running! Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 You can have that motor for a Grand even that becuase you are local and a Z guy!!Just save the headaches chasing down parts and I will send you to a guy here local to swap it for you ( http://sakuragarage.com ) Jamal http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/pts/5243885820.html Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Thanks but I really just need the turbo/manifold/plumbing. I would kinda like to modify the oil pan just to have a project for tig class, and the intake I'm gonna do a Holley. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 since your going carbed you dont need half the stock stuff. just need the turbo related things, feed line, manifold, oil pan, ect. Mostly... this... Quote Link to comment
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