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L28 turbo options


Mr.Dean_Yates

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A regular L28et block will handle that no problem.

 

Even an L28e will take it. If you want to be safe run a block with dished pistons and a P90 head.

 

You can run different pistons and a different head without poping anything but that will come down to tuning it well.
Detonation is what kills engines.

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i think the holley would be more enjoyable and cost effetive as you wouldnt have to constantly tune 3 carbs before driving every week.

 

 

cheaper and easier to source for sure

I had a zcar guy tell me once that putting a Holley on a zcar is like putting a turd into a milkshake.

 

But I see more gains from running a Holley than triple webers. More pros. And I know hollers can handle boost lol

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Alright so as far as intake manifold I am kinda torn between the Clifford and the Arizona ZCar four barrel carb manifolds. The azzcar ones is cheaper an I don't have to pay shipping seeing as the shop is in Phx. Anyone have experience with either of these manifolds?

 

And I found I can buy a remand l28et exhaust manifold from thezstore for the same price the two on eBay are going for. I'm still looking for a turbo too.

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My buddy had an Arizona manifold. It worked fine, so did the Holley. It all worked better when he sold that stuff and put in side drafts. That was n/a. Doing turbo, the Holley makes more sense in my opinion. Huge amounts of blow through experience can be found on those carbs, which should help you figure out your build.

 

If you don't know how to read turbo maps, go learn it. Then you can actually choose a turbo based on science, not what anyone thinks it does. Garrett has three excellent articles about choosing turbos and reading maps on their website.

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My buddy had an Arizona manifold. It worked fine, so did the Holley. It all worked better when he sold that stuff and put in side drafts. That was n/a. Doing turbo, the Holley makes more sense in my opinion. Huge amounts of blow through experience can be found on those carbs, which should help you figure out your build.

 

If you don't know how to read turbo maps, go learn it. Then you can actually choose a turbo based on science, not what anyone thinks it does. Garrett has three excellent articles about choosing turbos and reading maps on their website.

this is a great reply. I'll check on that on my way to Tucson. Gotta do an overhead open groove weld test with stick right now lol

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The 'turd in a milkshake' comment is just a Datsun purist who doesn't like to see N Am crap on his L28. He probably has weber or mikuni side drafts on his.

 

Yup, pretty much. I want to build a fun car on a budget. Getting things as cheap as I can while still being realistic and achieving my goals.

 

He also had a carbon fiber valve cover cap...

 

kermit-meme.jpg

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I have witnessed that. So an L28e block can handle around 14psi no problem with dished pistons and a p90 head? What's the difference between the p90 head and the n47 (I think it's an n47, I've been outta this game for too long haha)

 

Chamber size, the P90 gives it lower compression.

Block isnt much of an issue at all. Just make sure your shits tuned well, detonation is what will kill it.

 

and running a 4 barrel carb would be simplest. Theres plenty of other (not just holly) carbs out there that are designed specifically for blow threw turbo applications.

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Chamber size, the P90 gives it lower compression.

Block isnt much of an issue at all. Just make sure your shits tuned well, detonation is what will kill it.

 

and running a 4 barrel carb would be simplest. Theres plenty of other (not just holly) carbs out there that are designed specifically for blow threw turbo applications.

That make sence. I know Holley pretty well, so that's what I'm looking fort
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The block strength is never an issue. No one has ever had a block fail. Moving parts can fail.

 

The L28ET and the regular n/a L28E use the same block.

 

Stock pistons will survive 5-7 PSI all day and short blips to 10. Fourteen isn't practical without expensive ignition retard/knock sensor/detonation control and forged pistons. Heat is a turbo engine's worst nightmare. If the intake air is too warm the turbo and the compression turns the engine into a diesel and a junk pile shortly after. While not totally required, it will be easier to achieve higher output by reducing or by eliminating heat before, rather than dealing with it after, by using an intercooler, oil cooler, alcohol injection, cold air intake, larger rad, KA D-21 oil pump. To keep an eye on what's going on... an air fuel ratio gauge and an exhaust gas temp gauge.   

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The block strength is never an issue. No one has ever had a block fail. Moving parts can fail.

 

The L28ET and the regular n/a L28E use the same block.

 

Stock pistons will survive 5-7 PSI all day and short blips to 10. Fourteen isn't practical without expensive ignition retard/knock sensor/detonation control and forged pistons. Heat is a turbo engine's worst nightmare. If the intake air is too warm the turbo and the compression turns the engine into a diesel and a junk pile shortly after. While not totally required, it will be easier to achieve higher output by reducing or by eliminating heat before, rather than dealing with it after, by using an intercooler, oil cooler, alcohol injection, cold air intake, larger rad, KA D-21 oil pump. To keep an eye on what's going on... an air fuel ratio gauge and an exhaust gas temp gauge.

This is why I ratsun.

 

I'm definitely going to get an air fuel gauge and egt gauge, i had planned on running an intercooler and possibly an oil cooler, need cold air intake. Would an oil cooler be needed if I use an intercooler? And when would an alcohol injection be needed? Like at what psi range? I don't rally plan on running more than 10 psi because I don't really want to spend the money on the forged rods and what not.

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10psi youl be fine on alcohol 

 

Start it out at 6-7 and work your way up.

 

An intercooler will greatly help, and an oil cooler is nice but not necessary IMO

on the factory turbo cars the oil cooler only came on autos and even then its not a big one.

That said I do like having mine though, esp because the factory T3 is only oil cooled (no water like the later ones)

 

 

The biggest thing you need to keep an eye on is your AFRs

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Oil cooler. Oil gets to the hottest places on an engine (turbo) as seen by the temperature it can get to. Heat removed from the oil is heat that the rad doesn't have to deal with. Even the piston bottoms are oil cooled. You want to build with sustained full throttle in mind, not just a quick temperature spike. When the fun starts you don't want to have to back off.

 

Get an air conditioner condenser from a GM. They are huge and hold lots of oil. It soesn't have to be expensive.

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