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L24E/810 Questions


tloh

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   Hello, I recently aquired a 810 50th ann with 145 original miles on the clock.  The plan is to pull the motor and completely go through it.  I am kinda new to the whole 810 side of things, but have always been a fan and thought the car was way ahead of its time lux wise.

   I have already contacted mazworx about making some headstuds, but still have a few questions they couldn't answer... well alot, but yea.  I have tried to search, but i either just find a thread where all the answers are "go search" "use search button" or one guy says one thing and the next post the other guy says completely diff....

 

Here's is some of the info I am looking for...

 

1. p90 drops the compression super low (mid 7s from what i heard) but how is the valve/piston clearance?  does it change any?

 

2. MLG/MHG type headgaskets for the p90 head on a l24e or one for the l24e with the 810 head(can't remember casting#)

 

3. I heard bearing sizes were diff in the 810 l24es vs other platforms, is this true or hear say?  If so, does anyone besides nissan make any? prefer ones more lead based. 

 

4. I understand the l24e has a forged crank, but with the differences with the 810 does this still hold true? 

 

5. Rods forged in the 810 version of the l24e? 

 

Where is a good shop to buy parts from for l engines?

 

What dealerships (coutesynissan doesnt) can you order all oem parts from or are they for the most part discontinued? interior trim, clutch pedal, etc.

 

 

Thanks in advance for the help and responses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A 50th anniversary 810???? The first 810 was the '78 and last was '80 before becoming the Maxima. Nissan has only been in North America since '58 so the first 50th anniversary would be in 2008 and I don't believe any model car from the '50s is being made in the 2000s.

 

With that few miles on it why are you taking it apart??? Have you started and run it? Is anything wrong with it??

 

1/ Why have headbolts or studs made for it??? The old ones are totally reusable and if you want to up grade get 280szx turbo head bolts. As far as studs, order a set for any L24, L26 or L28 engine from ARP.

 

2/ The P90 head is for the larger displacement L28 engine and yes will likely drop engine compression and worse the power. Mid 7s would be terrible. Just because this head was used on a turbo does not mean it will work well on a smaller L24.

 

3/ With 7 compression any head gasket will do. Get a factory one if you can afford it otherwise NAPA or any auto parts store.

 

4/ The L24E IS used in the 810 so what differences are you referring to??? The L24E crank is the same as the earlier L24 crank used in the Z car

 

5/ The only version of the L24E IS the one in the 810. It's not used anywhere else. Rods are the same as the much earlier L24 in the Z car.

 

NAPA or any auto supply store will have L gaskets and small parts. Interior and clutch pedals will have to be sourced from another car. You can also post an ad in our classifieds looking for parts... http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-body-and-interior/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc

 

 

You should be up front with what your plans are because this doesn't seem to make much sense. The P90 head will make this engine a dog unless running flattop or domed pistons to raise the compression.

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It was my grandmas old car her husband bought her new.  She rarely drove it.  it has a anniversary badge on it, could of sworn it said 50, but who knows; i'll have to take a look at it later this week.  It does have both nissan and datsun symbols on the car and badged as a maxima.   It drives good, but it smokes alot(valve seals prolly) and is low on power you can feel it. I use to drive her to the store in it all the time when i went to visit. Everything still works including the lady voice that reminds you all the simple stuff you forget, lol.   KEY IS IN THE IGNITION....KEY IS IN THE IGNITION....KEY IS IN THE IGNITION.... RIGHT DOOR IS OPEN ughhh.  power moonroof still works with no leaks.  It's pretty mint for the year. only bad spot is where she backed into her carport once is messed the side trim abit, lol.  I would just put another motor in i got have laying around, but I like the idea of matching numbers on old cars like this, so trying to do something with instead of the simple way out.

 

This will be a turbo build... i thought it was kind of clear with the lower compression, stud, hg, etc questions I was asking, sorry about the confusion.

 

I love mazworx products, i have there stud kit in my SR and at 28psi i haven't even needed to retorque them in 2 years.  The price they quoted me is hard to say no to. They are based of arp 2000 grade with a fixed stud design, they are awesome.

 

Thank you for the reply  though man and maybe with the added info I prolly should have given to begin with to make it clear you can reply alittle better.

 

The build looks like this...roughly so far

 

used gt35 journal style .86 i got laying around

having enjuku source me a maker for the 1600cc injectors

340 aero pump with 044 bosh inline

4bar fuelpressure on vp e85

Having Martin from RS-E do the tune on a ems i have in another car currently

headstuds by mazworx

headgasket by ????  (I know the 28 is 86 bore and l24 is 83, but are the gaskets still the same?

acl race lead bearings ( if same as l24 z)

stock rods cryo treated

stock pistons cryo treated

Competition clutch is making the clutch for me. 

stock flywheel 

not really sure about the rearend of these cars and diff sizings, i have spares for r200v and r230v not sure if either would work.

 

I'd be happy to reach near where my 240 sits at now. Which is just shy of 500.

 

 

 

 

 I just didn't know if anyone made 83mm pistons for these motors or not, which is why i wanted to just keep the stock ones,cryo, and lower the compression, but wanted to make sure the piston/valve clearance would be ok.

 

 someone told me at z1 the z l24 and the 810 l24 had diff crank rod clearances which used a different bearing, if this is so I wouldn't be able to order z bearings from acl as they do not have 810s listed.

 

 

Ever since I was little i loved riding in this car and now that I have it.  I want to do something awesome with it, but at the same time keep the original motor/cahssis. I mean even now it's just an awesome car.

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Look on the driver's door jam the build date is there. Sounds like a later Maxima to me. 

 

I wouldn't run lower compression, it's run like a dog off boost.

 

1600cc injectors???? There are 6 cylinders spread over 2.4 liters, you won't need that much.

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   Meant to say 1000cc sorry i typed that kinda late, but vp e85 EATS all the fuel man.  I rather have too much than not enough, i can always run a lower idc.  injectors are usually same price regardless of cc when custom.   I have 1000cc with almost same setup on sr20 and it's at 92% idc with 28psi tune.. 2 less injectors but i'll have a bigger turbo on the l24 versus the sr which is just a frankenstein gt30.  I might try out 760cc, but it will be the same price and e85 hates flowing in any injector lower than 1000cc.  They tend to stop up easier too.  

   One thing about e85 tho is everything stay nice and clean and runs so much cooler I even removed my oil cooler due to the temps being to low.

 

Is there a better head out there that would lower it some or does anyone make a thicker gasket for the l24/l26?  Only thing I found was the p90, but you might know of something else, thanks again Kingrat.

 

Thanks lockleaf for the link!

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Mike, don't you know it's fast and furious cool to run over 20lbs boost? Who gives a rats ass about off boost drivability. In all seriousness, I'm with you on stock compression. I like how my 2.3 tbird turbo engined mgb runs around town off boost, it doesn't chug or hesitate and accelerates well before the turbo spools and pins you to the seat.

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vp's e85 is rated at 110, but yea.  the stock head would flow enough cc though?  not too sure on the flowrates of these heads yet. sorry.

 

Mike, don't you know it's fast and furious cool to run over 20lbs boost? Who gives a rats ass about off boost drivability. In all seriousness, I'm with you on stock compression. I like how my 2.3 tbird turbo engined mgb runs around town off boost, it doesn't chug or hesitate and accelerates well before the turbo spools and pins you to the seat.

it's not like that at all man, it's called mechanical traction control man.  Too much boost too fast out a corner and have fun sitting in sand pits. i track my 240 a fairly good amount as thats all it is, it's not a daily by any means besides fall weather when its nice. and have full boost at 3200rpm.  E85 allows you to run alot more timing, which helps with the spool time.  also if i'm at 2k rpm i dont want to be getting in boost.  I have 4.6 gearing in 240 and had a gtx2863 on it, super responsive, but would spin rs3's out of corners and want to be in boost at highway speeds, it just wasn't very fun.  I rather at 2krpm be out of boost and drive the car like normal, no need for boost that low anyway.      Response in on/off throttle at higher rpms relates to displacement, turbine exducer size, timing advance used doing spool, and afrs.   i also run no bov which helps throttle response as well.  but lets say getting off throttle at 4500 rpm i am back to full boost by 5100ish.

 

the l24 being higher displacement and 2 more cylinders i dont see how i'd have crazy lag from using a turbo that is just alittle bigger.

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kingrat, do you know any info on the rears of these cars? are they based of the z frame or a diff subframe?   trying to find out if i can use this r200 or r230 i have laying around or if i need to start sourcing a new one.  thanks again.

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The Maxima and the zx were based on the same platform. Six cylinder, IRS (sedan) 15/16 brake master and similar large calipers and vented rotors. The sedans had the R-180 3.545 differential. It's all on the engine tag under the hood.

 

The L24E and the 240 have the same size engines. The L24 will weigh more and make less power.

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