banzai510(hainz) Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 hope the trottle cable is releasing all the way is one I forgot to mention. but seems your on the right track. 2 motors there must be 2 carbs to choose from for trouble shooting Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 I have seen loose throttle shafts. I have also seen loose screws holding the throttle body of the carb to the main body. I would take the carb off, and check the carb screws, while waiting for the new Weber to show up. Good idea, I would like to know for sure what was up with this Setup and Hitachi carb. I am here on ratsun.net to learn everything I can about these little trucks and L series engines. I am a self taught mechanic/tinkerer (isnt it obvious yet?) so sometimes I understand whats going on and sometimes I am missing simple stuff. When I get the carb off I will be rebuilding it to get more familiar with the insides. I also have a set of Flattops that I want to rebuild and possibly use on another car someday. I am still fan-less so you can call me FanBoy. My brother just told me my new Weber conversion kit is waiting for me at home right now! THAT WAS FAST! !!!!!! Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 hope the trottle carble is releasing all the way is one I forgot to mention. but seems your on the right track. 2 motors there must be 2 carbs to choose from for trouble shooting The accel cable deffinitly returns all the way to the stop on the carb... it is about 1cm too long in fact and hangs off the gas pedal a bit but works. Na on extra carb unfortunatly, the L20B didn't come with a carb, flywheel or fan. and the L18 had this Hitachi on it so I wanted to use it because I am super cheap-o-mofo. and a single dad so no $$$ Here is a general cost breakout so far. + $650 Truck from a 75yo Mexican only 10 blocks from my house. + $150 Lightened/balanced Flywheel 225mm + $85 Clutch, disc, bearing, pilot- kit 225mm + $650 Used L20B from 1978 200sx - miles unknown + $58 Shop supplies, minor wiring stock and special connectors. + $279 Weber Carburetor 32/36 Total = $1,872 Yet to do or find + $375 2" Exhaust + $75 Cooling fan - or for $150 my friend can laser cut and bend an aluminum cooling fan for me. + $?? Run new rear brake lines + $100 Steering wheel + $8 Oven cleaner to remove rattle can paint from the original paint. I hear this works? anyone use this method? + $55 3" lowering blocks and hardware for rear. +$400 new Tires Total = $ + ish Estimated worth = Priceless Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Well, when I got home the box with the weber in it was damage and when I opened it up the weber was damaged. F%#$%&*@K!~!! I thought to myself, but it was just the mounting bracket for the manual choke pull wire. So I just (instead of loosing 2 weeks while I ship it back and crap) bent it back and called it good. The Weber install kit comes with everything you need except a bolt for mounting the accelerator bracket to the carb. Not sure why but I made one to put it on. I will say the weber has a really nice heavy feel to it, I like how it seems to function on the bench and I love the style of the square butterflies. The install went perfectly and without a hit(a)ch(i). I was able to confidently remove about 15lbs of smog BS from this engine and it already looks better under the bonnet. I still have a couple things to take off permanently. Once the weber was all hooked up (took about 1.25 hours) the car fired right up, went into high idle mode right at 1200 ish rpm and after about 5 minutes and one kick of the gas it dropped down to 770 or 800 and I check the timing and it is right at 11 BTC at idle. Just sits there like a happy purring kitten rock solid. When I rev it it hard it works and sounds great! When I hold it at a single higher than idle RPM there is a bit of stumble too it almost like a slight miss, then it catches up and runs fine. If I rev it the tiniest little bit at a time it works and progresses up the power range happy like. When I drive it, it no longer stalls out when I hit the brakes will idle on its own and seems powerfull. But that little Miss fire feel is still pretty prevalent at certain RPM. I am happy for now, maybe some new plugs wires and a new vac advance will fix this issue. I Have the vac advance from dizzy unhooked and capped off on both it and Carb right now. Taking it in for someone to put on an exhaust ASAP. And DESMO! from Ratsun.net hit me up and has a Fan here in Denver!!!! YES! It is driving me crazy not having a car as fall hits Denver in the face thank you to everyone who has helped me here so far. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 If you need a cable bracket, I have a couple of them here in AZ. Use the Cable sector from your old carb. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I widen the holes on the old bracket and redrilled the hole so the cable lines right up to the trottle linkage.(hole with slot) 1 Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Nice guys thank you! Everything has lined up really well thus far I haven't had to drill anything. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Get some nice NGK wire sets(NE 64) and ngk plus. wires set can be had on amazon also if you get the cheapest with free shipping then order 2 sets . Weird on the slight mis. I would just make sure the truck is close to timmed then just hook up the vaccum advance then play with adv and retard to see if its better under driving conditions. I noticed the if one used the stock carb cable bracket the cable dont line up right. If you use the cable holder one in the kit then its fine(if one is in the kit0 otherwise you get the 510 carb linkage adapter) the 521 cable pulley fits on the weber this is me: get a walker 1.75in muffler (stock quiet type) , weld 1.75 aluminized pipe from Y pipe to muffler then out like stock. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Slight miss off idle is likely a mild tunng issue. Webers have a specific off idle circuit that can be tuned if it bothers you Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I get a bog off idle with my 32/36. If you punch it from idle, it lags like a mofo. I heard it's a pretty common complaint and it can be tuned out with wizardry. 1 Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Desmo is dropping the fan off to my work in an hour or so and when I get home tonight I will put it on. I still have not been able to take the time (daylight is nice) (also i need a friend) to diagnose the headlights yet. :( My Weber does not seem to stumble or lag when I hit the gas hard, it's only when I hold the rpm at one place and even then its only for about one second. I bet a little retarding of the Distributor will make it run better. How would I go about adjusting the carb then, do I need special wizardly tools? :) I love driving this truck everyone stares at it and smiles a lot or have a really confused look on their faces which I love. I am 6'6" and I really do not fit in the truck very well, at least not getting in or out, but once I fold myself up in there I love it. Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 DESMO! just brought me his old fan from his Dime that I need for my L20B and donated it to my project. Did I mention Ratsun.net is the best yet because it is. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Just found this. Fast unexplained idle is likely a stuck or set too sensitive BCDD. This feature is a small 'carb within a carb' that supplies fuel and air around the throttle plate. It's intended for reducing emissions when decelerating. A $300 weber will also fix the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 That might be it Mike. I am curious what all I Find when I take this other carb. apart to rebuild it. Took the truck out for a little drive after installing the fan last night, to test it all out just now. Running great and even the miss is going away. Brakes work great, steering is good even with the small old beat up wheel. I went to get gas shut the truck off and when I went to start it the battery was pretty dead, and wouldn't turn over. My brother came down with another battery and I drove it home. Diagnosing the alternator and charging system today with ^^previous technical provided on this forum. Working on the Headlight wiring also. Getting a longer hose for the valve cover vent. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 this works great http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0 get rid that double ground batt cable and get some new molded type short as possible is better. battery plus should be to ward fire wall Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Yeah these battery cables are totally temporary. That is a cool little tool THanks! Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Has anyone installed these before? Are they okay quality and does the kit really include everything I need? http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-620-520-521-310/brake-upgrades/620-520-521-310-front-brake-upgrade Front and back are same basic price. I think I would l like this truck to stop well since I am in Colorado and drive in the mountains sometimes. PLANNING FOR FUTURE when I have more money. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 id be looking for a new rad soon unnless that one works ok but its not a 510/521 radiator and then get the 521 hoses also a electric ignition also Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Looking for Radiator in town. Found a 510 one on C-List might be picking that one up this week. So far the radiator that is in there seems to function well after routing the hoses better. On the list is an electric ignition system for sure. Gotta get the alternator charging first thing so its probably time to do new battery cables. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 my 521 has givein me the most trouble when comes to chargin. I would have alternator cked out first(load tested) 1 time was a loose connection in back of instrument panel(the big connector) that would cause the fuse to blow then no charging. was just corrossion and didnt let the 12volts go to the alternator windings. next was a crack in battery cable. dirty fuse block Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I will check all that out asap, I also have a spare Alternator from the L24 I was going to take them both in and have them tested so I can rule that out. I feel like it stopped charging after I moved a wire on an ignition post to get rid of the Oil and Ignition lights staying on even with key off... I hate wiring issues. Why my brain does not work like that I have no idea. Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 For the headlights I found this thread that might apply to my truck. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/67806-521-high-beams/?hl=headlights&do=findComment&comment=1309615 Going to try soaking the fuse box and look into the switch at the Steering column because I did remove steering wheel and the lights worked before so might be that! Quote Link to comment
5280Datsun Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Looking good, Dude! 5280 represent! 1 Quote Link to comment
biggaryT78 Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Update! Got my headlights fixed up... It was corrosion on the leads, on the passenger fender wall relay connections. Once I pulled them off and cleaned them I put them back and the headlights/brights worked againt! must have bumped it a bit when I was installing the engine, battery etc.... Purchased a new alternator "1980 200SX" that is more amps and Internally regulated... $58.95 after they tested mine and it was bad. I had a very slight clearance issue fitting the newer 'slightly bigger' alternator. The bracket would touch against the case of the alternator so it could not be bolted to bracket or moved out enough to tighten the belt. I simply flipped the bracket over "So it is now like a U" and it worked perfectly. After I installed the new alternator, I pulled the plug off the regulator and made jumper wires from WB to WR and from Y to W. NOW the ignition light goes out when truck is running, and now the battery is charging. Fixed. I put on a temporary make shift Exhaust so I can drive it and test and tune it. I simple bought a flexible 2" exhaust hose and put a clamp on one end... Stuck that end into the Mani - and Made my own bracket out of Flashing to hold it onto the manifold bolts. Then clamped the 2" Borla muffler that came with this truck onto that pipe and sent it out by the drivers door. Simple and not elegant but good for now. When I get my next check I will be able to get an exhaust on this thing and then it should pass smog test. I will keep adding parts and updates to this truck as often as I can. For now she starts, idles and drives and I am very happy with how zippy this engine is! it's FAST around town but runs out of gears real quick. I want a tachometer a voltage meter and a radio would be nice. Interior is looking pretty good actually. I will post some real photos of the finished/ongoing project truck soon! I took it out for a test drive and a beer. 3 Quote Link to comment
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