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My Sanity Saver 521


maxima_tyler

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Hey there Ratsun,

 

Its been a while since i posted here as a new member about 2 years ago. A lot of things have changed for me (for the better) and i'm super stoked to say im finally ready to truly join the forums with my own ratty datto!

 

***skip to pics at end if you dont care for background stories***

 

I have always been into the world of auto, but never had the chance to really dive into that world. Living with my parents, they did not understand the passion, so there were always roadblocks trying to work on family vehicles. i could never afford my own in high school so i tried to modify the family 1995 nissan maxima without my parents noticing too much. Obviously that didnt get very far.

 

When the 95 max died in my second year of university (with the help of myself and a lack of using the brakes) my dad and i picked out a 2003 maxima that the family would use until i graduated, where it would become mine as long as i maintained it while in school. I held up my end of the bargain, and i am still driving the car today. I modified this maxima a little more, but still, being a family car for most of my ownership, did not do much.

 

My datsun obsession started around 2010 when my dad and i bought the 03 maxima. I hung out with a cousin of mine a lot who was a huge VW fan. i would go to his house when i was home from university and work on his 53 beetle with him. We were chatting one day about some cars we thought were cool, and i thought it would be awesome to own a 1st generation GTR. Being a broke student, we knew that wasnt really an option, but my cousin then mentioned the datsun 510. I had never even heard of it before. We looked some up and they really caught my attention, small, good looks, simple mechanics, and quite a bit of modding potential.

 

472325_10151358590071899_1188669662_o.jp

 

I researched the 510 for about a couple months before finding the 510 wagon, which immediately grabbed my attention, cause wagons are just awesome. It wasnt until 2012 that i stumbled upon the 521 pickup. When i first saw that, i was hooked!

 

By September 2013 i was hooked on the nickle line of datsuns, but had still never seen a single one in real life (not very popular in Toronto). Thats when i moved to Seattle for an internship, and started my search for some real dastun action. I found a meet in Marysville, WA and found a ratsun member Q-tip who was willing to pick me up and drive to the meet (i had left my car in Toronto). So the first datsun i ever saw and got a ride in was a 70 510 with a KA24 and 5sp. So awesome (as was the meet).

 

***Here's where it really starts***

 

in July 2014 i graduated and moved to Seattle for full time work. A week later, i was transferred to Victoria, BC. I began to save my money and look for datsun's online. i knew i was in the mecca of dastunland being on the west coast, so i tried to take my time with it. In May of 2015 i stumbled upon a 72 521 on craigslist in Mount Vernon, WA. A few emails later and i was on my way to Washington to see the truck.

 

IMG_3294_zps3uahk4j0.jpg

 

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IMG_3296_zpstyrmer7q.jpg

 

IMG_3297_zpswhvrppy1.jpg

 

IMG_3299_zpsh4oreihu.jpg

 

The guy i bought it from was a real nice guy, selling the truck for family reasons. we went for a drive and worked out a deal! we loaded up the truck and i took it to a friends farm in Bellingham, WA. At this point i knew my employer had plans to transfer me back to the US, so i stored the vehicle instead of importing it to Canada ($$$) and then importing it back into the US ($$$$$). It sat there for 3.5 months, i only having driven it once during the test drive, and once to take it off the trailer and into barn storage.

 

In August of this year i was transferred to a project in Cadiz, KY (oh the joy). The truck arrived in KY shortly after i did, and just in time for my girlfriend, who was visiting at the time, to see it and see how truly obsessed i was over it (she may or may not be jealous).

 

IMG_4344_zpsfrxo6qvx.jpg

 

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I've had the car in my possession now for 6 weeks. Its a great daily driver, but definitely needs work. So far ive only done a tune-up: spark plugs, oil, idle adjust and drum brake adjustment). it actually makes a great daily driver, and i've driven it to work a few times (28 miles each way) and it hasnt skipped a beat. The people at work and around town love it, i've had 3 offers on it so far.

 

10835347_10152929509851899_6184191863087

 

Plans for it are to fix the rust on the doors and replace the rusted driver floorboard, fix the original radio and wipers, and clean up the existing wiring (which is a mess i will get into later). Then fix the ride, i like the stance but the front end is incredibly bouncy and a bit scary sometimes. Im not sure exactly what was done to lower it, but i'll be finding out.

 

IMG_4440_zpshprgrltm.jpg

 

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Let the fun begin!

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I dont think this is really worthy of a full blown project car post since i dont plan to do anything major to the truck, so i'll be using this thread to track any progress i make, no matter how few and far between. I've done a ton of research on here, but hopefully people will still chime in as i go.

 

Goal for this truck is to keep the outside as is (original paint and i love it), and keep the original L16 running, only upgrading parts as i need to. i consider myself a well versed novice when it comes to mechanical work, so this truck will be my learning curve.

 

 

List of things to do/fix (in no particular order):

 

- wipers only work when they want to

- washer does not work at all. pump does not receive power, but fuses all look good.

- only one reverse light works, probably just a bad bulb

- fuel gauge does not work

- temp gauge does not work

- speedo back lights do not work

- Wiring is god awful and needs cleaning up (some cut wires, and plastic splicers here and there)

- Check if original radio works (was not wired in when i bought car), fix if it doesnt and add in aux hookup

- install some speakers

- fix oil leak (very minor leak)

- rust repair (i.e. learn to weld)

- find out why front end is incredibly bouncy (i think they are flipped torsion bars? does that make sense?)

- stop tail gate chain from falling off all the time

- aim headlights

- replace quarter window seals

- stop windows from rattling (need new window foam i think)

- replace all mechanical gaskets

- re-upholster bench seat

- disk brake conversion (distant future)

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Thanks guys!

 

There's a lot of story i glossed over, didnt want to write a novel since i have to go to sleep eventually, but the short of it is that i had a lot of motivation issues while in school, and the only thing that got me to the end was the knowledge that getting through it and landing a job in my field (im a structural engineer now) would help me do what i love to do: work on vintage cars. this truck helped me kept me from dropping out of school on a couple of occasions, even before i even knew it existed, lol. And now that i have it, its a great way to blow off steam after a stressful / long day at work.

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I know a bit about 521 electrical.

- wipers only work when they want to

Check the fuses.  Glass tube fuses can look good but are not.  Use a test light on the end of the fuse closest to the cab.

- washer does not work at all. pump does not receive power, but fuses all look good.

I believe the washer motor is hot, at least if the wiper.washer fuse is good.  The wiper switch grounds the washer motor when twisted.

- only one reverse light works, probably just a bad bulb

Definiately check the bulb.

- fuel gauge does not work

- temp gauge does not work

There is a gauge voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster.  it is probably bad, it supplies about 8 volts to both gauges.

- speedo back lights do not work

Remove the instrument cluster, and clean the surface of the printed circuit board where the lamp holders contact the circuit board.

- Wiring is god awful and needs cleaning up (some cut wires, and plastic splicers here and there)

Be more specific, I can help with that

- Check if original radio works (was not wired in when i bought car), fix if it doesnt and add in aux hookup

There are four wires under the ashtray. One is always hot, one key on accessory hot, one lights on hot, and a ground.  A stock datsun radio is mono, only needs one speaker.  Power wire on the radio hooks to the key on accessory hot wire.  The radio grounds to the dashboard.  There is a pair of wires from a stock Datsun radio, one with a female bullit connector, one witha male bullet connector.  these go to the radio.

 

Here is a wiring diagram for a 1970 521.  Your truck has an electric choke, some minor differences there.

521wires.jpg

 

Cleaning the fuse box by removing it, and soaking it in vinegar can help it by removing a lot of corrosion.  Rinse it wekll in water after this, and dry it good.

 

Make sure the truck has a good ground between the engine and cab.  Negative battery cable attaches to the engine by the fuel pump, and there is a pig tail on the battery cable that goes to the alternator frame.  There is also a black wire that goes into the wire harness, this wire goes to one of the voltage regulator mounting screws.  If the engine to cab grounds go bad, the cab grounds throught the throttle cable, overheats the plastic outer cable, ruins the cable and leaves you with a throttle stuck in whatever position the throttle was in when the ground went bad.

 

There is usefum electrical info scattered all through this thread, about a Datsunn 521 that I bought as a parts truck, but has been a relaible daily driver.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/

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I know this truck.

Gets passed around alot. Hope it will stay iun 1 hands for awhile.

 

Not to many Datsun parts in Kentucky!!!!!!!!! so take care of it

 

Daniel got it covered on how to fix it. Cant believe the other owner couldnt fix half of it . They EZ to fix most is just corrossion around fuse box area.

 

Last not my truck stopped chargin. Went to the t connector. wiggles it and all it good.

have a volt meter and youll catch it before you on the side of the road trying to figure it out

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Dig the 521. But...beautiful Maxima. I miss my 01. Your valve covers still leaking on that thing?

 

Ha, thanks man, i really do love that car, its got some great power and so nice to drive. i've only started to notice it burning a bit of oil about a week ago, but it was my first oil change since my 4000 mile road trip, so hopefully that had a lot to do with it. no leaks to speak of.

 

I know this truck.

Gets passed around alot. Hope it will stay iun 1 hands for awhile.

 

Not to many Datsun parts in Kentucky!!!!!!!!! so take care of it

 

Daniel got it covered on how to fix it. Cant believe the other owner couldnt fix half of it . They EZ to fix most is just corrossion around fuse box area.

 

Last not my truck stopped chargin. Went to the t connector. wiggles it and all it good.

have a volt meter and youll catch it before you on the side of the road trying to figure it out

 

I'd like to hear what you know about the vehicle! The guy i bought it from told me he bought it from the original owners son. I was told the father used it as a work truck, and then the car was put away for about 10 years. The son took it out and got it running after the father passed and sold it to this guy a couple years later. a year after that i bought the car. If you know different i'd like to hear the story. How did you recognize the truck? Whatever its past, i havent the nearest intention of selling this truck. I'm in it for the long haul.

 

I have a voltmeter to check this stuff, but hopefully with daniels (and hopefully some other guys) help i can get it all figured.

 

I know a bit about 521 electrical.

- wipers only work when they want to

Check the fuses.  Glass tube fuses can look good but are not.  Use a test light on the end of the fuse closest to the cab.

- washer does not work at all. pump does not receive power, but fuses all look good.

I believe the washer motor is hot, at least if the wiper.washer fuse is good.  The wiper switch grounds the washer motor when twisted.

- only one reverse light works, probably just a bad bulb

Definiately check the bulb.

- fuel gauge does not work

- temp gauge does not work

There is a gauge voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster.  it is probably bad, it supplies about 8 volts to both gauges.

- speedo back lights do not work

Remove the instrument cluster, and clean the surface of the printed circuit board where the lamp holders contact the circuit board.

- Wiring is god awful and needs cleaning up (some cut wires, and plastic splicers here and there)

Be more specific, I can help with that

- Check if original radio works (was not wired in when i bought car), fix if it doesnt and add in aux hookup

There are four wires under the ashtray. One is always hot, one key on accessory hot, one lights on hot, and a ground.  A stock datsun radio is mono, only needs one speaker.  Power wire on the radio hooks to the key on accessory hot wire.  The radio grounds to the dashboard.  There is a pair of wires from a stock Datsun radio, one with a female bullit connector, one witha male bullet connector.  these go to the radio.

 

Here is a wiring diagram for a 1970 521.  Your truck has an electric choke, some minor differences there.

 

***WIRING DIAGRAM PICTURE***

 

Cleaning the fuse box by removing it, and soaking it in vinegar can help it by removing a lot of corrosion.  Rinse it well in water after this, and dry it good.

 

Make sure the truck has a good ground between the engine and cab.  Negative battery cable attaches to the engine by the fuel pump, and there is a pig tail on the battery cable that goes to the alternator frame.  There is also a black wire that goes into the wire harness, this wire goes to one of the voltage regulator mounting screws.  If the engine to cab grounds go bad, the cab grounds through the throttle cable, overheats the plastic outer cable, ruins the cable and leaves you with a throttle stuck in whatever position the throttle was in when the ground went bad.

 

There is useful electrical info scattered all through this thread, about a Datsun 521 that I bought as a parts truck, but has been a reliable daily driver.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/

 

thanks for all the tips!

 

i have a wiring diagram for the truck, but its nice to have one with some colour.

 

I visually checked the fuses, they all looked good except for one which i replaced. i didnt know these glass ones could be dead and still look good. after a cleaning, which youre right, it does need, i'll just replace all the fuses in that panel to be safe.

 

for the washer motor, i checked the voltage across the thing, but im now thinking i would have only seen power if i had someone twisting the dash knob (which i didnt). i'll have to recheck that.

 

i'll pull the speedo and clean it up / replace all the bulbs to be safe. is the gauge voltage regulator something i can buy at a parts store? there is a serious lack of non z datsuns in the auto graveyards around here, so used parts are hard to come by.

 

I'll get into more detail on wiring questions later, but here is a small taster of what i'm dealing with.. wires that seem to be missing, and cut.

 

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Those two wires both lead into the back of the speedo cluster. not sure what they do exactly..

 

2015-09-27%2015.05.13_zpspr0jxraw.jpg

 

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lots of this going on. took out what i could without causing any problems..

 

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Fixed up this one. lead into the block, below the distributor cap. not sure what its for tbh... can anyone tell me?

 

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and the radio. looked really good. the only problem i found was the volume knob wont stay on, it seems like the pin for it is too short because with the knob on i cannot push it in to turn the power on/off. also, the dial for the tuner has separated at the gear, but is an easy fix.

 

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and for the person that asked (sorry for the no quote), a video of the truck coming out of the trailer.

 

**link in post below**

 

The truck didnt run so well when it came off the truck, low on power, stalled all the time and sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders. An oil change, spark plug replacement and idle adjustment later and it runs absolutely great!

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Time for this thread to get a little more focused.. One problem at a time here.

 

On the advice of DanielC, i gave the fuse panel a vinegar wash. looks a lot cleaner to me (sorry for shitty cell pics).

 

Before:

0C7C6C40-01E0-4BAC-9B23-45398D20CC08_zps

 

After:

8E7C7296-002C-42C0-A12A-99BDF1F0A44C_zps

 

i am letting it dry overnight, and will install tomorrow with new fuses. I checked the fuses much more closely this time, and in addition to finding one more that looked burnt out, i found that they were ALL 15A fuses. That will be corrected.

 

My question right now is if the wiring alignment in the before photo looks correct. the cab side of the fuse panel looks correct according to the wiring diagram i have (a bit different from the one a few posts up it seems), but the engine side (near side) doesnt seem to match up as well.

 

From left to right:

- On the first tab can see the wire that go to the voltage regulator an extra wire on here.

- There is nothing on the second tab. im assuming one of the wires from the first tab should go on here. Doesnt seem to matter, as those two tabs are connected at the bottom of the fuse panel.

- The third tab should lead to the battery, but instead leads to this cylinder mounted on the firewall. Does anyone know what this is? I havent traced the wires on the other end of it yet. There is only supposed to be one wire on this tab, so im assuming the one that is cut was put there by the PO. its a clean cut, so i doubt it was something that "just fell apart".

- The 4th wire should be white. Looks yellow to me, but could just be because of age. im assuming it is correct, since i lose it in the wiring harness. Any way i can check that this wire actually leads to the ignition switch?

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Put in the cleaned fuse panel with new fuses. no change in status, which also means i didnt break anything. Bonus!

 

Couldnt really do much this weekend. I found a new place to live closer to work that has a sweet garage i can actually use (my current garage has a roommates boat in it). pics to come soon-ish.

 

next weekend might be spent moving, but if i can, im going to remove the cluster and see if i can get the speedo lights working. they are the only lights not working on that thing.

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Here is a picture of a fairly stock 521 fuse box, and it's power connections.  Notice the fusebox just gets power directly fron the battery.

FuseboxFar_zpsrlfkzejo.jpg

A closer picture of the connections.  The four screw connections are in pairs.  Both pairs are connected to each other under the fusebox, but the paired screw connectors are not connected under the fusebox.

Ignore the orange wire, with a fuse holder for now.  The big thick clean white wire comes from the battery.  The thinner dirty white wire goes into the wiring harness, and to the key switch.  On this fuse box, three fuses are always hot.  Some 521 fuseboxes have four always hot fuses.

There are two wires, black witha white stripe.  One of these wires comes from the ignition switch, and is hot when the key is in run, and start.  The other black wire, with a white stripe goes to the ballast resistor, for the ignition coil.  The last wire, white with a blue stripe, goes to the voltage regulator, and is used by the alternator, when the ignition is on.

FuseboxClose_zpswv5eoj04.jpg

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I dont have that canistor looking thng on my 521.

Sometimes its added for noises suppression for the radio.

 

I see that cut wire on the fuse box and the other wire is fine. I would think this went to the battery(most is a whitle wire but I see Daniels is the next lug over. I would have to ck mine if its the same.

 

under the fuse cover its usually laboled. what is what.

 

that on the fire wal if goes no where just get rid of it.

 

under /by the the distributor thats the temp sender.  clean it and see if temp gauge works.

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I dont have that canistor looking thng on my 521.

Sometimes its added for noises suppression for the radio.

 

I see that cut wire on the fuse box and the other wire is fine. I would think this went to the battery(most is a whitle wire but I see Daniels is the next lug over. I would have to ck mine if its the same.

 

under the fuse cover its usually laboled. what is what.

 

that on the fire wal if goes no where just get rid of it.

 

under /by the the distributor thats the temp sender.  clean it and see if temp gauge works.

 

the ink on the label on the lid of my fusebox has long since disappeared. its only a white wrinkly piece of paper now.

i am thinking the same that the cut wire in my picture once led to the battery. i'll get that back in once i buy the right gauge of wire. i only have 14 gauge right now.

does anyone have any idea what that thing on the firewall is? there is a black wire coming out the other side of it, but i lose it in the wiring harness by the fusebox..

 

i put a new female bullet connector on the wire to the temp sender. it didnt fix the temp gauge, but i never cleaned the male bullet end. I'll try that and see what happens.

 

Here is a picture of a fairly stock 521 fuse box, and it's power connections.  Notice the fusebox just gets power directly fron the battery.

FuseboxFar_zpsrlfkzejo.jpg

A closer picture of the connections.  The four screw connections are in pairs.  Both pairs are connected to each other under the fusebox, but the paired screw connectors are not connected under the fusebox.

Ignore the orange wire, with a fuse holder for now.  The big thick clean white wire comes from the battery.  The thinner dirty white wire goes into the wiring harness, and to the key switch.  On this fuse box, three fuses are always hot.  Some 521 fuseboxes have four always hot fuses.

There are two wires, black witha white stripe.  One of these wires comes from the ignition switch, and is hot when the key is in run, and start.  The other black wire, with a white stripe goes to the ballast resistor, for the ignition coil.  The last wire, white with a blue stripe, goes to the voltage regulator, and is used by the alternator, when the ignition is on.

FuseboxClose_zpswv5eoj04.jpg

from comparing our two pictures, and your description, it looks like im missing the wire to my battery, and the wire to my voltage regulator..

 

where would i find the voltage regulator? if i can find it i can try and trace the wires, see where they end up.

 

This wiring stuff is a whole new game for me. not that easy of a process to fix, but im determined!

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A bit of sad news to round off tonights posts...

 

on my way to work this morning in my maxima, while stopped behind a semi waiting to left turn, i was rear ended by another maxima who didnt see me. he was going about 25mph when he made impact.

 

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As bad as mine was, what you can see in the pictures plus a shifted trunk lid, his maxima didnt turn out any better...

 

2015-10-05%2006.12.32_zpsujyxl9no.jpg

 

went to the doctors with a little lower back pain that morning, so we'll see what comes of the x-rays. the guy that hit me was an alright guy, took fault to the accident, so we're sorting things out through insurance. as bad as it was, im just glad it wasnt in the datsun. it would have been a write-off im sure, and i would have been much worse for wear without a seat-belt.

 

always wear your seat belt boys and girls! installing one of those will be a winter project for the 521.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a little update and some help needed..

 

First off, i found out why my horn isnt working, basically missing all the parts behind the button All the parts i have are in the pics below. I took off the shroud around the steering column and found the little metal tab that operates the horn. If i press it with my hand against the contact plate, the horn works great!

 

Video how i operate the horn without getting shocked! http://https://www.youtube.com/embed/FOQZ9DmsaSM

 

2015-10-17%2011.40.39_zpsr1v18wal.jpg

 

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so now i just have to either find the parts to complete my horn assembly, or wire up a switch to operate the horn. All i have for the horn assembly is what is in these pics. If anyone can tell or show me exactly what im missing, it would really cut down the hunt process for me.

 

 

 

The bigger thing right now is a mechanical issue. I'll be honest i havent done much research or fiddling yet since works been working me a lot of hours, but i will be soon. On startup i've been noticing the engine hiccuping. only really happens when i apply the gas, in any gear and in neutral, and will last for about 15 minutes after startup. I took the air filter off and checked things out..

 

Video of the hiccuping:

 

2015-10-17%2011.23.03_zpsherwqdzu.jpg

 

2015-10-17%2011.23.47_zpsv8ojjbw2.jpg

 

The choke side of the carb is completely black, same with that side of the air filter. I checked the choke when the engine was cold, and it stays in the completely open position. i tried operating it with my hand, and it wiggles a little, but does not leave that position. There is also a spring that im pointing at in one of the pictures that is just kind of hanging loose, that im thinking is supposed to operate the chock from the throttle. Im not sure how they go together though.

 

Any thoughts?

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