New B210 owner

[Conley]

Hello!

I have been lurking on here for a month or two. I've driven and loved a B12 Sentra for years, always wanted to get a Datsun and I got the fever recently.

So, I found a 75 B210 coupe, California model. 83,000 miles according to odometer and documents. Previous owner repainted, doesn't look super but looks okay if you don't look too close ha! Also a new leather interior. Bastards hacked up the dash for a new head unit though.

I've replaced a few things and resoldered some bad wiring jobs, and it runs pretty well! I just now found a set of S130 280ZX struts and brakes to purchase, as I would like a firmer front end and more braking power, as well as more choice in wheels. So, I figured I'd finally pop in and say hello, so I can ask a few questions of you gentlemen (and lets not forget gentleladies) if you don't mind! (Although I have used the search for research beforehand!!)

Anyways, here's my B210, my B12, and I also have an 88 Pulsar NX twin cam that is under a loooong build haha but no pics of that.

Edit: Forgot to mention, its a 4 speed.

 

 

 

After wrenching on a B12 for years it's nice to find such a big community for the car, between here and the 1200 site, although 1200 info doesn't apply 100% I have noticed.

[datzenmike]

Welcome to Ratsun Conley. Ask away

[Conley]

Great! Thank you. I wanted to note, I have, since the pictures, removed the fog lights, and miller light sticker. Also picked up a FSM for it.

Anyways, I want to confirm my thoughts on this 280ZX strut swap. Other than replacing the 280ZX spring perch with the B210's and using the B210 springs, and top hats/strut mounts, it is a direct bolt on? I don't need any B310 control arms? I also read in another thread it is good to switch the L and R struts when installing so the caliper faces forwards, to clear the tie rod end. Do I need to switch the way the spring perches face? I fthought this might be obvious once I get the strut and spring apart and it's in front of me but I wanted to have all my ducks in a row.

[datzenmike]

Well you can also trim the B's spring slightly. This will increase the spring stiffness and contribute to better handling and braking. But don't go lopping off coils blindly.

 

The lower spring perch can be held in place with a split collar. This avoids welding and keeps the ride height adjustable still.

 

Keep in mind that the zx calipers are very large and likely won't clear the B's smaller 13" rims. You may need 14" rims or mags but do your offset homework!!! Do NOT end up with the tire outside the fender edge or lip. Wider, within reason, is preferable as you now can apply more braking effort and tire traction with be the limiting factor in stopping quickly.

 

Lowering on any strut vehicle can often do several things...

 

1/ it affects the steering geometry. Ideally the steering linkage center line should be even with the center line of the two front wheels at the steering knuckle. When lowered, the steering is below the center line and the two steering knuckle ends above. When traveling over bumps this will aggravate the angle and pull on the steering wheel which is annoying. This is called 'bump steering' and can be corrected by the addition of 'bump steer spacers' between the bottom of the struts and the steering knuckle.

 

2/ Except where bump steer spacers are used to correct for lowering there will be introduced toe out of the front wheels. You can adjust or have an alignment shop do this.

 

 

3/ The tops of the tires will move or appear to be outward from the vehicle. This is called positive camber and too much affects handling, tire wear, can rub the fender and frankly needlessly looks unprofessional. The cure is to adjust the top of the strut inward on the strut tower, often with the use of custom camber plates. The 710 top hat is offset to the inside of the strut tower from the factory.

 

 

 

I don't know about the B but on 510s? the caliper can interfere with the steering as the pads wear down. Forward facing calipers are cool looking but may not be necessary. Something to research more on.

 

 

Master Cylinder

 

Larger calipers need a larger volume of brake fluid to move them. To move more fluid the B's 3/4" master will simply have to travel farther towards the floor to do so. This will now 'feel' soft and mushy. Some say that the longer pedal travel give better brake control. If you are not sure get the 15/16" '79-'81 master from a 280zx. The '82-'83 has horizontal mounting bolts and won't bolt directly to your B. Failing that a 7/8" master? Don't worry about the increased pedal effort with this size increase.... your B has a brake booster and it will do all the work.  

[Conley]

Thanks for your reply!

I read on another thread that it is a good idea to cut off a single coil, (or even less) to better match the shorter strut. I had planned on cutting a single coil off, I would like a slightly higher spring rate anyways. Does that sound reasonable to start with?

 

As for the spring perch, I was worried as to whether the split collars would be strong enough to support the car, vs welding. I have noticed that many people on here are using them so they must not be failing. It certainly sounds easier than welding. I have a mig but am not skilled and would have to seek outside help to not damage the struts.

 

I did read that the 13's would not fit the new brakes. Having more wheel options was part of the reason I wanted the ZX struts. I want to get some 14", around 0 offset, 5.5 or 6 inch wide wheels, hopefully watanabe clones, though I may be able to get some slot mags on the cheap. I figured that could allow for a decent upgrade on tires and I may not have to roll the fenders. I need to research the wheel and tire width more before I purchase.

 

As for the steering linkage, I was not aware of the bump steer problem. I do not intend on lowering the car more than the shorter ZX struts will lower it already. However, I will look into the bump steer spacers, as I don't want any instability over bumps, that sounds like it could make for a hairy drive haha.

Is it safe to assume a bump steer kit for an 81 280ZX will fit the B210? I have found a few online but they seem to specify 15" wheels.

 

As for the camber, I can see how having the strut towers stay at the same spot and moving the bottom of the struts closer together would cause positive camber. I had read on another post that the ZX struts do not cause a positive camber problem on the B210, but I will have to see. Are there camber plates available off the shelf that fit, possibly for the 510? I have seen some conflicting information about the suspension interchangeability. The US B210 uses different suspension than the other market's A12 and A14 B210s and 120Ys from what I understand, the US model having the exact front suspension as the Datsun 610 or 510? Can anyone confirm that the three bolt holes in the strut tower on the 1975 US B210 are the same distance apart and hole size as those from the Datsun 510?

 

Finally, as for the master cyl, I was hoping I could just deal with the extra pedal travel. My uncle has a truckload of 280ZX parts so I may be able to score a master from him if necessary.

 

Again thanks for the reply and the help!