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Todays progress


Andy_in_SD

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Today I swapped out the motor mounts on the 70 - 2000 (easy enough), also finished the mounts for the 2" exhaust + glass pack I put in last weekend. It's a lot more pleasant on the low end now as the old owners exhaust was dust in the process of falling apart. And I hate the chance of cooking exhaust valves.

 

I started on the body. I have 6 parts I need to cut out & replace. 4 you all know of off by heart, the front wheel wells (thats 2) and the in front of the rears (2 more), plus 2 on the trunk lid.

 

I don't bondo.

 

I am hand forming steel plate (20 gauge). I am hand shaping the steel and then will cut weld it into place. I will take pics along the way and then will post as I go (let me know if that would be helpful to others, if not then screw it). I would include all of the old school ways of doing this (except for using a wire feed welder). I cut 2x4's in curves to form steel etc... It's super old school the way I do this stuff.

 

For the 66... I am getting a rocker assembly that has sat in a garage since 72 (so it's pretty much unused). I will have a total of 3 assemblies from which I will build 1 set. I will (if needed) hand sand the rockers, I will then put together the best of all 3, and sand, polish where needed. The head will come out of the shop in 1 1/2 weeks. It will be 100% rebuild / redone / good as new! Cost for the head is 125 for the head plus ~600 in work= $725. Not bad fr a brand new head.

 

I will have some parts coming up as I have decided to go aftermarket on my gauges thanks to all you speed hut buggers!. They have some awesome stuff & I've already designed the dash to go with 4" 160 speed, 4" tach white background, black lettering (no speed hut logo/text). So that puts the interior on hold. Thus it is bodywork.

 

Hope all are well & post what you've doing on your car this weekend.

 

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Quote "I started on the body. I have 6 parts I need to cut out & replace. 4 you all know of off by heart, the front wheel wells (thats 2) and the in front of the rears (2 more), plus 2 on the trunk lid.

 

I don't bondo." unquote.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget one of the oldest repair techniques.  Cut the patch oversized and[[most probably on the inaccesable interior cavity]use a flanging tool, insert the patch and solder or braze the flat joint. You may want use a low expansion type foam to fill the cavity ln back on a low humidity day]]!

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Yes, take photos of everything you are doing. I am a huge fan of solid steel body repair work so I look forward to seeing your work.

 

One of these just came up for sale by me and out of the blue I suddenly want one. I've never cared for roadsters before, but now I think one of these will be next after my 510 wagon.

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