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Mounting the vg30 (in 510)


Datfabio

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Hey guys,

I've been working a little on my 510 and finally pulled the stock 4 banger out and started the swap.

I'm using the motor and tranny out of a 300zx but I'm having clearance issues mainly with the starter. I can't really push the motor any further back without messing with the firewall, some people are using 200sx intakes to gain a couple more inches but they're are near impossible to find. 

I actually really like how it sits right now because the left mount was pretty easy to make, and the original (auto) tranny crossmember also lines up perfectly.

I was wondering if anyone has this setup and how they worked around the starter :confused:  Any ideas? what about exhaust manifolds? I picked up some pathfinder manifolds but they still hit the steering box.

here are some pics: 

image1_zpsa7duee81.jpg

 

image2_zpschleo0fi.jpgimage3_zpsyncnvggh.jpgimage4_zpssozmsojy.jpgimage5_zpsiurqyeow.jpgimage6_zpsxqhtinqm.jpg

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If it were me, I would just cut the mount off the crossmember and move it forward. Think ahead though and allow enough room to be able to remove the starter without having to remove the motor mount as well.

 

Also, that firewall clearance does not look like it will be enough. Unless you have some really rigid motor mounts, the flex will probably allow enough movement for that to be a problem. Hopefully I'm wrong.

 

What are you going to do for a radiator and fan(s)?

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Welcome to Ratsun! Cool to see another VG project getting started. As to the starter, I'm not sure on the 510 install which is better. I do remember from helping Yello620 put in his VG that he found the VG starters to be quite different in regards to how they are "clocked" in relation to the mounting tabs. Some would have the relay up high while others had it clocked further down. You may also want to look in the project thread section for VG powered dimes and see if anyone has made reference to starter options. 

How would the extra 2" of rearward movement affect the starter issues?

As for the intake, I would seriously look into getting the 200SX intake. It may be harder to find and cost a little more, but, the more weight you can get off the frontend, the better.

Good luck. I know a couple people locally that have gone VG in their 510's. I'll ask.

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Thanks for the input guys,

I'm also worried about the engine hitting the firewall, its not very clear on my pictures but the terminals on the starter selenoid are literally less than 1/4 of an inch away from the crossmember mount. They say the vg is a very smooth engine but I don't think its smooth enough to allow such small clearances. Moving the engine 2" back would at least prevent them from shorting out. I think I'm gonna have to go with the idea of cutting the mount off and moving it, because Ive been looking for a 200sx intake on junkyards, craigslist, ebay and no one has it.

For radiator, Im going with everyones advise of using the radiator from a vr6 jetta, and just attach some universal fans to it. Seems pretty straight forward.

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Due to starter clearance issues when I put the VG in my 620, I used the starter from a 98 Pathfinder VG33. It bolted right up, is significantly smaller and the solenoid is clocked to be at the top of the starter. It solved a lot of clearance issues for me. I believe it is a more powerful starter too.

 

Also, seriously consider finding the 200sx intake, you don't want that much weight hanging out front.

 

Sorry, you can't have my 200sx manifold either.

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Maybe an old maxima intake? What about the pathfinder intake? Its ugly but if it works, it works.
Im definetly going to look after a pathfinder starter, if it clears I think I can leave the engine were its at. Im not going to be racing or anything like that, just cruise around on the weekends. I beleive its still mounted further back than the original motor.
For the oil pan I dont think theyre still sold to the public, I simply bought a cheap harbor freight mig welder for about 100 bucks and made my pan. Just cut it short about an inch, add more volume on the sides and notch it for the steering to clear. I still have to shave my pan to clear the steering, my eyeballing wasnt good enough haha.
I dont know how to copy the link for a picture from my phone but just google "vg30 510 oil pan" and you will see some oil pans that were sold by experimental enginering, I dont think he still sells them anymore.

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Here are my two favorite links pertaining to the VG and some info about them. The first will give you some ideas as to what you need to keep to allow them to run as well as each part you can remove and what they are for.

 

http://www.vondrachek.org/automotive/datsuns/vg30_project/

 

This one has a ton of links! Check out the intake page. It has a LOT of good info. You will find that the Pathy intake will work and work very well, BUT, it has to be modified to clear the hood. 

 

http://www.redz31.net/

 

 

In all seriousness, don't be in such a hurry to get your car driving. Seriously consider the affects of the weight being on top of the front suspension and what it will do to the handling of your car. These 510's are known for their abilities. Even 1" of rearward movement of the engine weight will make a significant difference.

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  • 1 year later...

Reviving an old thread in case someone is looking around for options on their vg swaps...

IMG_8957_zpsj1df2cwz.jpg

I havn't really touched her in months, but I did modify the 300zx intake manifold to shorten it out and push back the motor. I never came across a 200sx intake or exhaust manifolds, still looking for those.

Also sort of mounted the radiator along with electric fans, surge tank and fuel pumps plumbed up and wired. Ecu harness ready and wired. Cranks and has spark but no start yet. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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