McSnooderson Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Rebuilt, new idle solenoid, no vac leaks, and still won't start. It was dying every time I stopped. Now it wont start unless I hold the pedal to the floor. Is there a ground somewhere I have overlookked? Really need help, miss my car. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Not that it matters for starting but when the key is turned on off on off the solenoid should click if wired correctly. Engine warmed up for at least 15 min. and turned off.... Take the top off the air filter and look. Is the choke on or off Engine cold and not started....Take the top off the air filter and watch as you pump the gas. The choke should close. Does it? Quote Link to comment
Veedonfleece Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 I'm not really qualified in any way to answer this post, but I wanted to throw this possible problem into the ring....you mentioned " It was dying every time I stopped." which reminded me of my wagon stalling out at stop lights because the brake booster went bad and it was causing a vacuum leak when I depressed the brake pedal. I thought I was going crackers, the car was sputtering and dying if I pressed on brake pedal haha. Anyhow, maybe power brake booster or some other vacuum leak? 1 Quote Link to comment
McSnooderson Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Checked the choke and it looks correct. Anyone know about the diaphrams on the carb? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Not that it matters for starting but when the key is turned on off on off the solenoid should click if wired correctly. Engine warmed up for at least 15 min. and turned off.... Take the top off the air filter and look. Is the choke on or off Engine cold and not started....Take the top off the air filter and watch as you pump the gas. The choke should close. Does it? This needs trouble shooting. Eliminating causes not guessing at them. Then moving on to the next. Having to hold the pedal down to start sounds like it too rich or flooded and needs more air. First eliminate the choke as the cause and move on Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 What year B210? Quote Link to comment
McSnooderson Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 1978 4dr 115,000 miles and ran great until it started dying. Now that the full ignition is new and the full fuel system is new it wont run at all. Scared to put a weber on it and I want it to stay as original as possible. Wish there was a trustworthy shop in the valley :) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 You don't need a rocket scientist to check this. Not that it matters for starting but when the key is turned on off on off the solenoid should click if wired correctly. Engine warmed up for at least 15 min. and turned off.... Take the top off the air filter and look. Is the choke on or offEngine cold and not started....Take the top off the air filter and watch as you pump the gas. The choke should close. Does it? Figure out what's wrong and then tell the mechanic to fix it if you can't. Always know more about what's wrong that the guy you're paying to fit it. Or you might as well hand him your wallet. 1978 4dr 115,000 miles and ran great until it started dying. Now that the full ignition is new and the full fuel system is new it wont run at all. Scared to put a weber on it and I want it to stay as original as possible. Wish there was a trustworthy shop in the valley :) How is the fuel system NEW? What did you do or replace on it.? Quote Link to comment
McSnooderson Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Pump, filter, lines, and all the carb components. i guess i didn't put a new tank so not ALL new but close. Thank u all for your input:) Nice to see there are still real people out there. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Pump. Mechanical or electric? I ask because if the output pressure is too high it will, or can, over power the float and flood the carb. I imagine the stock pressure is around 2.5-3 PSI Quote Link to comment
McSnooderson Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Mechanical, hey thanks for the info. I would have never thought of that:) Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Did you, Rebuild your own carb Buy a rebuilt carb Have yours rebuilt by a professional -------------------------------------------------- Did you do all of the work mentioned or was this done by a mechanic? Why did you change out the ignition? The 78 B210 came from the factory with the best available ign system for an A14. Above all, what prompted you to do all of the above work? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Almost always cheaper to trouble shoot, find the problem, replace the faulty part or make an adjustment. Almost Quote Link to comment
McSnooderson Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 With the lackof available on hand parts and the habit of exhausting all possibilities to accomplish a goal, it was an absolute must to change all inexpensive and not so invasive parts that make it run. If you think it is silly then fine. I can say I always like a good SPARK under the hood and there are no trustworthy mechanics around here. If they can't use a computer for diagnostics then they can't work. So I will do whatever is needed to get the result I want. Thank U all Again for your input Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted September 19, 2015 Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 Na, no I understand. When it is our daily, preemptive maintenance can be a smart move. I really would like to help, just need to try and get a vibe for the Dat, not being able to see it in person. With the info Mike, myself or another member can at least give you a more of an informed answer on where you may look for B210 happiness Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted September 19, 2015 Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 For starters there is a small metal screen filter at the carb fuel inlet. Being that all of your fuel components were changed, maybe some debris found its way to the carb. (before fuel sys replacement). Quote Link to comment
high winder Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Here is what I would do, not that I'm a guru just thinking out loud. 1st check for spark. If spark is good double check firing order. If spark is good make sure getting fuel to carb, if fuel to carb check sight window if it's a hitachi. Check choke to make sure it's working, next check for any obvious vacuum leaks. Now if all that's good and you have compression it should start, if not check timing. If it still doesn't start find dog and kick. Quote Link to comment
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