Bally23 Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 Hello everyone. New here but have been reading for a while. Just got a 74 620 and need a new radiator. Apparently there hard to find. Does anyone know where I can source one or what may be comparable. Searched around here and seems advanced auto used to have them but not now. Any help would be appreciated and seems this is the place for it Thank you Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 fairly easy to find an OE style replacement. Let me find the link Quote Link to comment
Bally23 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 I have looked on eBay they all seem to be up to 1973 and then 1975-1979. Can anyone tell me if those will fit the 74 l18 engine. Was also trying to source one fairly quickly. Thank you Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 check out this thread http://community.ratsun.net/topic/52739-620-radiator-not-availabe-wtf/?hl=radiator has the part number you need at advancedautoparts Quote Link to comment
Bally23 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 I did check that advance auto parts number and no longer available http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-toughone-radiator-433628/20920125-P?searchTerm=433638&vehicleIdSearch=19326&isAllVehicle=false This doesn't look correct Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 The 'up to '73' will work. After '74 the rad support changed and was bumped out to the front to allow a deeper 3 core rad.... those may not work. Core Height: 18 7/8 in Core Thickness: 1 1/4 in Core Width: 26 1/8 in Fan Included: No Inlet Location: Middle Left Inlet Size(s): 1 1/2 in Outlet Location: Bottom Left Outlet Size(s): 1 1/2 in Row Quantity: 1 Transmission Cooler: Yes Tube Size: 1 1/4 Bottom outlet definitely wrong. Only works if bottom right or Passenger side. Other than that the picture may be a generic 'picture of rad' . Quote Link to comment
Bally23 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 Excellent. Thank you very much for the input Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 I recently picked up a 3 core aluminium one off amazon. It looks nice and while I was worried it might be too tall it cleared the hood on the test fit. It will require new holes in the core support as the mounting locations do not line up. I won't be reusing the factory fan shroud and have not tested to see if it will fit, but it is probably safe to assume not. I haven't had a chance to actually run with the new rad, so I cannot yet attest to the water tightness. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOYQC82?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 I got mine from advanced it's a straight bolt on affair. No issues Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Not trying to hijack, but I was browsing radiators the other day and was thinking some of the Chevy/GM aluminum rads would work (merely because of inlet/outlet location) thanks to whoever posted offical sizes - my Datsun has ran with the needle in the center of the gauge from Feb to middle of may, since its been 80+ degrees every day she now runs right below the hot line... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 As long as in the normal range you're fine. If you run in a usual position and it suddenly changes then you might get concerned. High in the normal range is a little disconcerting but just check it more often. Things that might lower it slightly are Always run with the fan shroud on, it increases fan efficiency at lower speeds. Be sure the fins are clear of bugs and debris. If you have a clutch fan the plastic blades should be firm to turn by hand. Too loose means the silicone coupling fluid has leaked out and it will slip too much. Be sure that there are no spaces around the rad where air can get past. Use foam rubber to seal any gaps. Some vehicles have a rubber strip on the underside of the hood that when closed, seals air out. Close off any unused holes for wiring in the rad support. Always run a good quality anti-freeze coolant. It raises the boiling point but best, it prevents corrosion. Use only distilled water for replacement. Most tap water has dissolved minerals in it and these consecrate as water evaporates. Also known as scale. Look inside your electric kettle. This stuff will plug the rad. Paint your rad flat or matte black, it radiates more heat than shiny black and way more than any other color. Replace a lower rad hose that has gone soft. Suction from the water pump will collapse this and overheat an engine at high speeds. If your heater leaks or is a problem, never loop the hose from the head back to the lower rad hose inlet to the water pump. This is hot water that by passes the rad (or the heater core) and is not cooled adding to the rad's work. Add a coolant recovery container. You only need a special rad cap, rubber hose and a container for the coolant. Coolant always expands or boils over and can burp out of the rad cap from small heat spikes when shut off hot. This coolant is captured in a container. When the cooling system cools down the special rad cap allows it to siphon back into the rad. It's simply amazing and amazingly simple.The rad never needs topping up. Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 The bypass is my problem I think, the guy I bought the truck from had the heater removed and capped off what I now believe to be the inlet and outlet for the heater core, I swapped his plugs for a bypass and that's when I started running hotter... I think lol its been a while since I altered the setup. my bypass my "piss tank" for overflow. Good margaritas... Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Good thing I kept his caps lol - I'll be putting those back on and seeing if that puts my needle back in the middle. Which it obviously will lol. Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge datzenmike Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 No problem. This is what the heater shut off control does. It stops coolant flow so there's no harm sealing those two pipes off. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 just buy the 3 core Amazon Rad . 3 core is the way to go if in Hotclimate 1 Quote Link to comment
Cardinal Grammeter Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 People were saying the horizontal (!) flow 433628 is NLA but that is the wrong P/N, the correct one is 433638 and yes, it is still available. It is a Ready Rad made by Vista Pro. Quote Link to comment
Cardinal Grammeter Posted April 23, 2016 Report Share Posted April 23, 2016 UPDATE: I finally put the 433638 radiator in my 1974 L18 620. Got it from Advance w/lifetime warranty. Here is a thread link where I discuss the mods required to do it: (info is at end of thread) Radiator Shroud Identification and Interchange Quote Link to comment
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