Datsun 140J 4door '77

[tekkjosen]

I would leave the stock front end on and just lower it more and nice wheels

That's the plan, think i will have the smiley bumper on as well.

But have been looking for a front spoiler, saw a pic of a 711 with it and looked awesome ! :) but think it was without the bumper, can try to post it later today :)

[tekkjosen]

Anyone know what car this front spoiler lip is made for ? or where to get it bought ? :)

 

 

Think the car looked awesome ! B)  saved the pic a while ago, but think maybe the car belongs to someone on ratsun? :)

[tekkjosen]

03.09.16

 

Small update here :)

 

Got the alt. and fan mounted.

 

 

 

 

Got the radiator in, and attached all the water hoses, just missing one hose I think... from the bypass line for the thermostat to the block, hose was all eaten up so will buy a new one soon :)

 

 

Cleaned the starter 

 

Before

 

After

 

Mounted it and started a bit with the electrical. will continue with the electrical next time :)

 

But got some big news ! :D Picking up a new datsun tomorrow !! :)

 

If everything goes as planned I'll be picking up a 710 4door tomorrow for parts that's some older than mine, actually not sure what the model is yet :P but it has the other (older) rear end. 

 

I'm picking it up because it costs 3000 NOK  = 360 USD, and the worst part is that I might think this would be a better starting point than my car (because of all the rust on mine) (even though I paid triple for my car) Seller says it's pretty good for rust on this one (not sure yet tho) So should maybe have used my car as a parts car and buildt up this one. But want to finish my car since it's my first car and all ! :)

 

so will be taking some parts from this one, but when I'm finnished with mine I'll probably start on this one :) So I don't have any plans of scraping it ! :) There are some nice parts on it that i've been looking for, especially the driveshaft is a big reason for me buying the car, it's the short type driveshaft so I can fit a long 5'gearbox on it as I've understood is easier to get hands on than the short one ! :) (also it doesn't have an engine or gearbox atm) 

 

 

The trip is about 600 km to get this one as well tho :P

 

Also at the end I will recomend you to stop by our (2 friends and me) facebook page, a little summary of the projects we have going on :) Bankrupt Garage :thumbup:

Link: https://www.facebook.com/BankruptGarage/?fref=ts  

[tekkjosen]

(part 1)

So picked up the car 3 days ago !  :thumbup:

 

 

Bought it from a datsun guy in Norway, his garage was filled with laurels and a couple datsuns outside too, and he told me that was just "some" of his cars :P

 

Saw this 120Y behind his garage as well, wich is for sale now :)

 

 

Heads up: Prepare for lots of pics :P

 

Have only seen one pic of the car before I bought it: the right side wich looked really nice, but the left side wasn't quite the same... But seems like one of the PO's have bumped into something with the left side, most of the rust is around the bumps.

 

Me trying to fill the car from this fancy new pump we saw where we stopped for a break on our way :thumbup:  Don't know why it didn't work tho  :confused:  :lol:  

 

Stylish tunnel on our way  :thumbup:

 

 

Got it home

 

Also there was a homemade sunroof mounted... wasn't waterproof at all, so lied a water puddle (?) on the floor when I picked it up. Driver seat was also wet.

 

 

Started looking over the car and doing a little work the day after :)

 

Began with the backseat, was some dust and maybe mold on them so took it out and wanted to clean it with water and see if it helped. 

 

 

But when I took out the seat I saw this underneath 

 

Looks like a nest of some kind  :blink:

 

When I was cleaning it out I spotted this in the seat  :sick:

 

 

So this was what happened next  :lol:

 

 

 

Backrest

 

 

Helped alot with just some water and paper :)

 

Underneath the seat cover: really wet

 

Took off the driveshaft

[tekkjosen]

(Part 2)

Got some time in the garage after work yesterday to :)

 

 

Cleaned out from the trunk as well and found more bugs :/ 

Here's how the story was for all of them :P Using the universal tool that followed the car  :thumbup:  Bug killer, floor scraper.. and I've heard someone use it to change their wheels  :confused:  :lol: (tirewrench) 

 

 

 

Also wonders if this bugs eat rust or something haha :P found almost 10 bugs in a pile of rust in the trunk

 

So want to strip the car and clean out all the bugs, also I think it's good for the car to dry up a little :) (think I've killed like 20 - 30 bugs or something) 

 

Took a quick scrape on the floor and vaccumed up the bits.

 

 

Removed the passengerseat 

Good enough to use in the car, backrest looked good, torn apart on the seat tho, but with a cover only over the seat I think it will be good :)

 

Tilt function went a bit slow... Not so suprisingly :P

 

Cleaned out and lubed it up again :)

 

Took the floor inside as well

 

Scraped 

 

 

Was a layer of dry dirt under the driverseat, but was soaking wet underneath it when I scraped it off 

 

 

Was a bunch of dirt/mud in front of the driverseat 

 

Vaccumed 

 

 

 

 

Haven't looked closely underneath it yet, but seems like it's not to bad with rust, so if it's not the worst (Know it's better than the '77 tho :P ) I'm thinking buying a new cheap engine, fixing some rust and ---> Winter car ?  :D  (A few roads around me that's not salted) if I can get a cheap engine I think I can get a lot done in a weekend with a little help. Seems like it's pretty complete other than the engine :)

 

 

Will try to remove the floormat in the middle today, and tow it over the garage as my dad wants the 77' out soon, not to thrilled about another datsun in the garage :P

BTW this is a '74 mod :)

 

Maybe it should have a nickname ? :P

 

- Noah's ark (because of all the animals :P )?

- Bug exterminator

- pest control 

 

:lol:

 

Think I will combine the project thread a little on these two :)

[tekkjosen]

Started restoring the L14 engine that sat in the '77 when I bought it. Took it out of the barn and into the garage :) Wanted to take a look on it and maybe put it in the '74 since I haven't got any new engine yet :)

 

 

Scraped the engine and gearbox and sealed all the intakes/outtakes on the engine and washed them with the pressure washer :) Not going to be a pretty engine, just want it to work :)

 

 

Was seriously over 1 cm thickness with oil and dirt in the clutch house walls before wash...

This was just by scraping my finger from back to the front one time  :P

 

 

 

 

After washing :)

 

 

 

 

 

Replaced the rear crank seal :)

 

 

 

 

I also used some time on the carb that followed the L16 engine, just put the carb away at once when i got the engine since the one I had on the L14 started to look way better :)  took a quick clean and mounted the things that were loose and cleaned out all the jets :)

(pic from before I cleaned it)

 

But I'm missing some parts for the '74... example the metalplate between the engine and gearbox that din't follow with the extra engine I bought, started making my own, cutting out in cardboard, but as I checked the original plate was 2,0mm + and the steel I had lying around was only 1,2 and thought that with the heat and eveything I didn't want to use such thin steel in case it moved.

 

But I'm looking for a cheap L 16 - L20b engine for the '74 that I just can dump in, so might prioritise that before I start using time on finding parts, Also I need the long type of a gearbox to fit the driveshaft, would be nice to find a 5gear while I'm at it  :thumbup:

 

A friend of me had 2x 14" tires lying around, so got em tested on the hayashi wheels :D 185/60 I think, but think I'm going for some thinner tyres, Have become a little fond of a little tirestretch lately  :rolleyes:

 

Have put the '74 outside with a cover over it, think it would be fun to put in an engine that at least goes so I can drive it in and out of the garage and hopefully on EU control later :P

[tekkjosen]

Small update again :)

 

Ended up with cutting out the plate between the engine and g.box of the steel I had lying around.

 

 

 

Tightened the flywheel

 

Mounted the steering rack

 

 

Found out I've got all for the coolant except 2 hoses, the one between the block and mani 

 

Original is all cracked up  :hmm:  Just started searching for this, but if anyone knows where to find this quick and cheap, i would be grateful for a link  :angel:

 

And the hose from the block to the thermostat bypass line is missing.. think I can use some universal hose here, since the size is more likely the same in both ends :)

 

Would be interrested in a full coolant hose kit for a L14/L16 since I'm missing alot for the other engine :)

 

Got my hands on a 5speed gearbox this weekend !! :) Short type, so hope it fits in the '77 :)

 

Went for a trip in total of 550 km, he sold a L24 really cheap along with the g.box, so took with me that as well, and bought 2 starters, 2 alternators and a new dizzy top cover for a nice price :)

 

the fan that was mounted on the L24 was crunchy as a biscuit tho  :P but a friend of me thought the fans from his toyotas might fit :)

 

 

 

 

Cleaned up a little in the elctrics in the engine bay, and put on some new cableshoes (?) 

 

 

 

 

[sebpv]

good luck getting that PCV hose for a L16. Ive been lerking on internet for over 2 years in vain...My last resort i shaping a hose using malleable type rubber

[banzai510(hainz)]

if your still using point ignition you should still use a point coil(say 1.6 ohms) and the stock ballast resisitor

[tekkjosen]

good luck getting that PCV hose for a L16. Ive been lerking on internet for over 2 years in vain...My last resort i shaping a hose using malleable type rubber

Found one yesterday, but costs 45 USD, thought it was to pricey so just continued searching. If it's that hard to get maybe I should consider the one I found. Just took a quick look, can try to find it again and send you the link if you're interrested ? :)

[tekkjosen]

if your still using point ignition you should still use a point coil(say 1.6 ohms) and the stock ballast resisitor

Still have point ign.

Using the coil that was on the car when I bought it.

I've forgotten the resistor, honestly wasn't quite sure what it was meant for as I wasn't aware it needed it. but will wire that up to ! Thanks :)

[sebpv]

probably on New Datsun Parts? Their shipping is also ridiculous. Would come up to 80$ CAN for a piece of rubber. Would rather make one myself

[tekkjosen]

Yup, found the site now it's on new datsun parts ;) Typical to have shipping costing more than the product especcially to Europe...

 

Took a quick look on some custom made hoses from china, seemed like you could send them a sample and they would make a custom one for free, costing no more than a regular one, this was silicone tho, but think I will look more into that ! :) Have the cracked one so if I can send that down and they make for free I think i will order a few :P

[tekkjosen]

Little update on whats happend the past month :)

 

Had to move the car outside, so I'm pushing it in and out of the garage when I'm working on it... a bit shitty now that it's snow here as well, but can make room for it in the barn luckily so when I get it started I will store it inside on the barn across the road and drive it to the garage when I need to :) 

 

 

So are focusing on getting it started now.

 

Replaced the slave cylinder with the one that followed the L24, old one looked crap. 

 

 

New one

 

 

Have been searching for the coolant hose and sent an email to where i usually buy parts, without finding anything else than a couple that's real pricey  :no:  

 

 

So ended up finding a couple brasspipes lying at home, soldered together a 90 degree bend bigger in one end than the other, and think I've found hoses to fit on both sides now :) don't know how long it will hold, but maybe it's just enough to get the engine started and tested until I get something else :)

 

 

Checked that the timing was correct before I took out the oil pump housing :) everything looked great imo

 

 

 

Removed the pump and filled the housing with oil and mounted it again. 

 

 

 

dizzy in place  :thumbup:

 

Wasn't aware of this at first, but there's a difference on the oil pans from the L14 I've got and the L16. the L16 builds more in the front, so therefore my steering gets dragged on the oil pan... Looked like this after just pushing the car a couple times in and out from the garage, was already almost through.

 

 

didn't notice it beore I was turning on the steering wheel before I took out the oil pump and saw the whole engine was moving  :P

 

So changed the oil pans  :thumbup:

 

 

Also I found this in the old pan that was mounted on the L14  :o Biggest concern was the tall washer/steel sleeve that i couldn't figure out where it was supposed to be  :P along with some steel/casting bits and rubber

 

 

Gave it a quick clean before mounting it :)

 

Had to lift the engine from it's mounts to get it mounted again. 

 

A bit better place under here now  :thumbup:

 

So the next now will be to fill up engine and g.box with oil, get fuel to the carb and finish the ignition and some electrical and I can try to start !  :thumbup:

[banzai510(hainz)]

LOve it!!!!!!!!

[tekkjosen]

Update coming soon ! :)

 

Filled oil and primed it, got the fuel to the carb and finished the ignition. 

 

Used the last couple days trying to start it, but have some problems. after some troubleshooting and some help I've found what I think is the problem... Engine cranks and all plugs are igniting. The engine fires up when cranking, but as soon as I put the key in ON posision the ignition stops and the engine stops immediately,

 

we've also tried to crank it till it fires, then take off the "switch cable" to the starter so it stops spinning around.. and the engine runs on its own !!  :thumbup:  (when still holding key on CRANK pos. tho  :P ) sounds like the ignition timing isn't to bad either. :) 

 

So therefore I think the problem must be the supply from the ignition in ON pos. somewhere between that and the coil. 

 

So hoped someone here maybe could think of a typical thing I might have forgotten. Suspect I've forgotten something obvious and important, but been some time sine I took the electrical apart so can't remember all when I'm putting it together again although I thought I marked it all :P will come more pics in the update later. 

 

Also... the coil is supposed to have 12V when the key is in ON pos. ? I assume it should have 12V when cranking also, measured a little on it and when it's cranking I only get about almost 3-4 V...

in ON position it's 0V 

Could it be the coil it's something wrong with when it measures 3V or just the power in ? if so I have an extra coil I could test :)

 

It's unusual of me not to have any pics in update, so have to drop in this one  :lol:

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Datsun 510s there is a Hot START wire. which when key is in START it gets 12volts. This is bypassing the Ballast resisitor. So when the akey snaps back to ON position your losing your 12volts  to the ballast resisitor then to the coil.  So either your ignition fuse is broke or your ballast resisitor is OPEN or your key switch connector is dirty or loose.

 

most datsun the Black white wire will have 12volts with key to ON. 

should get 12volts from the fuse to the + side of ballast resistor then other side of resisitor is about 6 volts. I cant remeber if the points needs to be open or closed for this ck .

 

when Motor is cranking the voltage drops alot that why the HOT start  wire is bypassing the ballast resisitor.

You should use the orginal coil with the points ignitions.Points only wants like 6 volts as the ballast cuts the current in Half so the points last longer.

[tekkjosen]

Thanks, will look into it after work today. Measured connection through the resistor, but the points on the resistor have connection to ground, thought this was right cause resistor hasn't any insulation on the backside where it's mounted to the chassi?. Where is the ign. Fuse ? Checked all fuses in the fuse box at the floor in front of door, and all were good. I do have 2 pcs of 6pins connectors at the "connection box" in engine room I don't know where to go, + a few wires, some of them weren't connected to anything before I took out the engine tho. Can't remember but suspecting i might miss a small wire set. Will post some pics of it today after work and try some more then :)

[banzai510(hainz)]

measure the voltage at the resisiter and after the resisitor.

If you get 12volts at resisitor and say 9-6 volts after resisitor then your fuse is OK.

 

back side resistor you can see the wire this is NORMAL.

[tekkjosen]

Update from the last couple days :)

 

Filled engine and gear oil :)

 

 

Primed oil and got fuel to carb

 

Finished the rest of ignition, and after fixing some fuel leaks I was ready to start. But had the problem with only power to coil when cranking.. Think I figured it out yesterday ! :thumbup:

 

Followed all cables to understand how it worked, couldn't quite get how the coil could get one pulse from CRANK and another one from ON when it's only one cable in on the (+) side of coil.

But can try to explain how I understood it, correct me if i'm wrong :P

 

 

So it goes a cable from:

 

IGN ---> green connection (in connection box) ---> To ballast resistor ---> out from ballast resistor to (+) coil ---> (-) coil to dizzy

 

Pink stripe is the cable that was taped up with the coil ( never been conneted to anything, but had to see where it went.)

 

Green Stripe is the problem fixer, constant + to the coil and it started and idled at it's own !! :)

 

 

 

The cable that's never been connected

 

Ended up here

 

Since the CRANK and ON pos. had to come in the same cable to the coil I looked at the ignition switch again, and measured where it got 12V in crank and on.

 

And this is what I came up with :)

 

(How I think it's supposed to be)

 

 

So one of the "X" is the supply, wich sends electricity to the "crank pin" in crank pos (wich goes to the coil). and then to the "on pin" in on position. and I think it's supposed to be a connection between the "crank pin" and the "on pin" in ON pos. like on the picture above.

 

But I'm missing that connection, checked with the beep Ohm thing on the multimeter. and does get a little connection between these pins after cranking and then in ON pos, but it's not constant.

 

So tried to short circuit the pins and then it works, so if I don't open the ignition switch to try to fix the bad connection, I could just solder on a cable on each of the pins to a manual switch so I can turn the ign on and off :)

 

 

Uploaded a short film to photobucket that I hope works :)

http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/tekkjosen1/media/Oppdatering%202-2/20161201_232918_zpscmwbcdh4.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0

Sorry for unsteady filming

Half way into film I suddenly remembers I don't have 3 arms to hold camera, wire and crank at same time :D so are stumbling to balance my phone on my knee :D

 

And here's some more of the great electric work one of the PO's have done.

 

The blue cable is the one that goes to the ON pin, that was connected with the red cable that was only wired around the steering rack :confused: Maybe to some extra lights before... haven't followed the blue cable yet, might be there it has been a bad connection... just fell out when moving the cables.

 

Will see where the blue cable goes tomorrow, think I will wire up a switch for the ignition at least temporary if not pemanent to :)

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you have 1 wire(stock wiring) to the + coil will have +12 on START and +12 when key is ON..

 

this means where is a  2wires splice under the tape some where or a relay.   Datsun 510s are more simple with the wireing. I don't know your 710. But with point ignition this is how it works.

 

 

I have never seen a ignition switch set up wire the wires are soldered to the steering assembly. On 510s its the switch and a connector

 

Your Prolem fix:

the GREEN  is like putting the key to START. you do not want to run the car very long like this. This will BURN up the points.

Red in your photo is what the it should be... To TEMP run you car put +12volt to the + side of the ballast then thru to coil so you don't burn up your points in your distributor

 

 

 

hook Your green wire to the + side of the ballast resistor that will go thru the resisitor then to the + side of the coil. this will be like the key in the ON position.  this will run the car for now. But when not running pull the wire or bad things will happen and maybe frain the battery if the points are closed or burn up.

 

 

 

what I would do is pull the stater wire from the starter so you don't try to start the motor.

 

 

 

on your WHITE ballast resisitor   one wire is from the fuse box to Key switch to the coil + side coil(this is the + side of the ballast)

the other side of the ballast, a wire (on my car is black/green) will be shorted to the the plus side of the coil  this is the - side and will go to the + side coil.    Now this might be shorted under the black tape where you can not see it.

 

 

So if you can find the 12volts with Key to START and with KEY to ON then this is a simple hook up.

 

Then you know you get 12volts to the coil when key in start. That wiring is OK

now put the key to ON and find the 12volts that come from the ignition fuse box to the key switch and pass thru to the coil.  It might go to that relay box your something as I don't know 710s in Finland.

[INDY510]

On a 710 ignition switch:

 

White/red: constant 12V

Black/yellow: 12V when cranking starter motor

Blue or Blue/black: is 12V when key is to "ACC" and when key is to "ON"

Black/white: 12V when key is to "ON" ... this is your coil wire

[tekkjosen]

thanks for the replies ! :) 

 

Will do some more troubleshooting on what you said, but think I might temporary wire up a switch in the car ..... + --> switch ---> resistor in --- resistor out ---> + side coil. 

 

Then this should be like the original wiring for ON pos. if the points don't like the voltage bypassing resistor :) 

 

 

 

currently bleeding clutch and brakes, just mounted and changed the clutch slave cylinder like 3 times because 2 of them were stuck,  and the one  working had a stuck bleeding screw... not to funny when clutch line screw is all round so have to use a wise-grip plier to screw it on and off  :poop:   

 

got the coolant hose fixed, filled water... So heading out to the garage again now, wire up switch, finish bleeding clutch and brakes and then hopefully I can drive it onto the barn tonight !!!  :frantics:  standing in the garage on overtime now, but would be nice getting it to the barn under roof   ^_^

[tekkjosen]

On a 710 ignition switch:

 

White/red: constant 12V

Black/yellow: 12V when cranking starter motor

Blue or Blue/black: is 12V when key is to "ACC" and when key is to "ON"

Black/white: 12V when key is to "ON" ... this is your coil wire

 

Thanks !

very helpful and much easier when I'm going to troubleshoot later !  :thumbup:

[tekkjosen]

Just a quick question more :P

 

Does anyone know what these might be meant for ? it's 2 pcs of 6 pins (female) connections. not sure but mean that I followed the blue cable from ignition switch through fusebox and ended up in one of the 6pins connectors. 

 

BTW these two fits the relay or something the 6 pin on the left with red wires is connected to, but know the red one is supposed to be there from an old pic :)

 

 

The one pointed out, I'm pretty sure this was taped up (not in use) under the white connection/relay box. looked through some old pics. Think it's a 4 pin (male) round pins :)