banzai510(hainz) Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 any updates?????????? Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Ahh, sorry been a bit layed back on the updates :sweat: Slave cylinder stick just went through the lever on the g.box, fits the 5spd but not the new 4spd. so maybe it looked different on the old g.box :) but formed a washer to keep it in place :) Bought some coolant hoses and clamps this week, so when I was mounting the slavecylinder like 5 times <_< a friend of me that was visiting fixed the last coolant hose missing :thumbup: Over to the ignition.. :) Ended up wiring a new wire from ON pos. key and right to the resistor in. so I didn't need any extra switches ^_^ Seems a bit messy since I had to lengthen a cable and connect the wires that were loose from before. Really nice to use Wago's :thumbup: anyone else tried em? using them at work in electric installations, mean it's a big german company that makes em :) Bleeded the clutch and front brakes enough to make it working by myself, only got to fill 2L with coolant, didn't have any more and don't want to water it out any more than 50/50 because it's so cold here that it should manage at least -25 C just in case ^_^ So then over to the starting ! :) It starts and goes on its own now (electrical) ! :) to check if it worked I drove it back a meter and front again, first meter on new engine ! :thumbup: But stopped it quickly cause I don't think it gets coolant... as said, it's only a small amount filled in the radiator, but is it possible to force through water first ?, don't know if it's just sucking air now.. no water in hoses, just a little in the bottom hose radiator, so getting hot real quick. Could I just open the thermostat housing and pour some water in there first ? will buy more coolant tomorrow :) Posts a little video on the starting, had to use choke to get it going. Will need to adjust some ignition and mixture later. http://vid1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah183/tekkjosen1/Oppdatering%202-3/20161207_230141_zpssmnj3o8i.mp4 Sounds like shit on the video because the exhaust stops at the mani, and i was filming with my phone so it got all weird with the loud noises :P Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 You cant find the ON wire from key switch to the coil? Its has to be there somewhere? on your ballast resisitor on the (left side) has 2 wires hooked up. One is the START. Most people but this on the + side coil (right side) I will think this come from key switch ON Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted December 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 The two wires on left side was only one before, the second one is the one i wired up the other day, right from the ON pos. switch ;) Originally when I bought it it had only that one (start) wire on the resistor then out again to the coil. Don't know what's missing, cause it worked when i bought it, but not now. have followed the ON pos. wire abit, but ended up wiring a new.. but know the ON pos. wire ends up in one of the 6pins connections, really wondering what's supposed to be connected to it, can't find any pics of it from before.. Black - white wire that's the ign. 12V wire from ON pos. ends up in this 6pin And to this... pretty sure this never been connected to anything (not original but from when I bought it, don't know what all the PO's have done) But anyways, it's working now with the new wire, I will do some more troubleshooting later, but working as a temperary fix now :) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 that 6 pin should go to on side of the ballast resisitor maybe you plug in the wrong connector to soemthing else. I worked on a 510 and under the glove compartment the connectors was mixed up. The previous owner put connecttors wrong Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted December 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 according to old pics it's the right 6 pin that's connected to the box, but can't find the one not connected to anything, so migh but as you said it can have been wrong all since i bought it, but it was working at thee time. I think i could just plug a wire from the bottom picture in prev. post to the resistor. this wasn't connected to anything when I bought it either.... It's an awful lot that weren't connected to anything when I bought the car... but will have to sit down one day and look at some wiring diagrams i think :) Just came home from work and bought coolant today, so will fill up the radiator and try to start it again today :) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 ON wire12volt) to the ballast > out ballast wire> to the +coil. START 12volt wire > +coil Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted December 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 ON wire12volt) to the ballast > out ballast wire> to the +coil. START 12volt wire > +coil When I got the car : START: Ign > ballast in > ballast out > Coil +. could it be that some datsuns didn't have start wire 12V directly to coil but through ballast first ? seems pretty right with the lengths of the cables and so... Anyways it's working now, and can't be that bad if it should bypass the ballast, other than the starter won't be so powerful now, but if i get problem with the starter being to weak i just hook the start wire from ballast in to coil + :) Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted December 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 Small update from what happened.... 2 weeks ago actually :lol: Been busy at work lately now before xmas and was on a xmas company-party a week ago and pretty sure I've busted a rib... worst thing is I can't even remember how it happened :lol: but big things (imo) happened 2 weeks ago :thumbup: Filled more coolant and tried to adjust a little on carb and ign. ... got the exhaust mounted after the mani and started it. coolant flows and think the thermostat's working. bleeded brakes and clutch as much as i managed on my own (wich seemed to be nothing at all when I headed to the mainroad on a gentle slope and breaks didn't grab and almost no response on the e-brake on the ice either :frantics:) Hoped for the best and drove it across the road and onto the barn :) we have a steep entry on the barn right after the road, so have to bring some help and bleed brakes before I try to come down again :rofl: Got some vacation ahead now, so hope to get some more done on the datto, next on the list now, will be adjusting ign and carb a bit more (drives with the choke on now) then I will proceed more with rust welding I think, but hope it will slowly be more and more driveable so I can get it tested a bit again :angel: 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Adjusted the ign. somewhat correctly from what I could hear today, but will take the finnish of it with an "ignition timing pistol" later. Adjusted the idle screw on the carb as well, but even though it sounded like it was running ok on idle I couldn't start it without choke on and if I didn't throttle every now and then to keep it alive it would die after about 10 seconds of idling. So started looking at the idling solenoid, found out it didn't click when key to ON. so that explains why it dies after seconds of idling afterall the mixture seems good. measured the wire to the solenoid : 0V. black/white wire ended up in the 6pin contact I cant figure out where's supposed to connect to. Black/white wire ends up in 6pin contact i'm holding in the pic underneath. it fits the one where the 6 pin contact with all the red wires is connected to, but according to old pics the red wire 6 pin have been connected to this since I got the car, so can't figure out where the one with black/white wire should go :confused: (remembered now while I wrote that when I got the car the solenoid missed the parts inside so it didn't work, don't think I measured on it then, but could be that this problem have been there since I got the car that the solenoid have been missing 12V in ON pos, all the time <_<) With all these loose 6 pins I'm afraid I've stored away and forgotten a major part of the harness :confused: :blush: really can't figure this out, cause I've used pics from before I took it apart to get it right together again, but I can't find pics of these 6 pins that's not connected to anything, might have been behind the box earlier but must have been connected to something ? I also suspect much of the electric's weren't correct when I got the car either, would have been nice to find a pic of how it is originally with the connection box thing, cause it's several unused spaces I don't know if PO's taken out what's in there or if its never been anything there. btw put 12V right to the solenoid and it clicks so should work as it's supposed to :) Also moved the START wire from ballast to directly to coil, lack of power on the starter when the battery weren't fully charged and it went through the ballast first. 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 Worked on the electric a bit the other day, changed some connections, still more to figure out but satisfied for now, got 12V on the solenoid so it idles now and the electric for the ignition is correct. Got some help from a bud today to bleed the brakes. Took a look at the dizzy as well, saw that my breaker points was bad so will order a new one + a condensator. Hopefully I can borrow his ignition timing pistol when I'm putting in new parts to det the ign. Just right :) Will try to get time after work tomorrow to move the datto to the garage again and continue with some rust/bodywork on the rear and work my way to the front :) 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 (Part 1) Long time since last update now, but here comes a summary ^_^ Placed the car in the garage again and put it on stands, began looking at rust on the rear. Got some help and tips from a friend one afternoon on how the welds should be and look like, found out what I've thought was correct heat on my welds have been too cold. So got the welder cranked up a bit and the welds looks way better now ! :thumbup: just practising left now :) Started grinding down left rear where it had been covered with paint from PO, looked like it had been welded and applied body filler. grinded down alot of bodyfiller and saw the panel that was "welded" on was barely attatched. Cut it off, and looked behind where it was badly rusted.. so welded in a new plate behind :) Welded in some small squares where it almost had rustet through on the side as well (mostly for practising) 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 (part 2) Haven't done much more actually, was working on this the night before I went the day after to pick up a new car ! :lol: Went about 750km to pick up a toyota corolla ke36 '77 2 door. Was actually intended to be a "fun car" for the winter, a car I could give alittle "F" in, looked like it was in worse shape on the pics i got than how it turned out to be when I picked it up actually. Picked it up for a cheap price, road legal and stuff :) Loved to finally drive an old japanese car that was mine and road legal :rolleyes: :hyper: Ended up being my new daily instead of the 30 year younger Volvo s60 I currently drove :thumbup: . drove it every day and used it to work for about a month :) And to say it mildly, I did use it :lol: :lol: :no: Found out it actually was a bit more "valuable" than I thought, been in one family all the time, only gone 80 000 something km, thought it had turned over and started counting a new round (heard they go to 100k then start on 0 again) but Looked up the 10'ish latest EU controls. (every second year) and seems to be the legit km !! :o Wich I find it rarely to find up here. It's all original and electric looks like it almost haven't been touched, uncept a little stereo that was removed before I got it :) Was like a dream to look on it in contrast from the raped electrics on the datto from the PO's... But it was a few dents on it and the left door is aggresively attacked by rust, was told the door was changed pretty early, like in the 80's, so must have been bad painted or something, cause it's really bad in contrast of the rest of the car, wich isn't quite so bad at all. it's some rust of course but mostly surfacerust :) Did some work on it after I got it.. cleaned carb, changed oil, and fuel filter ( don't think it's ever been changed the fuel filter :lol: wouldn't start one day so changed it, and cut the original filter in half just to see, and was BIG clumps with dirt that was pressed together over time). 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 (part 3) I also got to borrow a steering hub and wheel from my friend, so mounted that. And threw in my stereo, finally got a reason to carpeting the sub and throw a rising sun flag on it ! :) Looks pretty nice IMO :) Welded some hooks in the floor as well to strap the sub securely :) Also changed ignition points and got the ign. fine adjusted. recieved a new steering hub in the mail a few weeks ago, and got a new steering wheel last week :) Bought a Nardi wood steeering wheel 330mm, have been wanting one for the datsun a long time, so I finally boght one ! :) will use it in the corolla now, and later in the datsun when I finnish with it ! :) Haven't mounted it yet tho. After driving the rolla for a month without touching the volvo I decided to test the volvo a trip again, cause it was all frosen and stuff :P Was actually just going to warm it up and get rid of all the ice. So drove it a small trip, didn't put on any music or anything, but god damn it was real good driving that again !! :lol: :lol: It was comfy and quiet as hell in contrast of the rolla :D and felt like I was driving a car with 500 hp :thumbup: instead of the 50+ in the rolla :rofl: (currently 250hp in the volvo) so used the volvo again this last week til now :) Think it's really to different types of driving when driving a new vs an old car, but love both types, so think I've found a balance on what to drive now, using the volvo most for daily and long trips and stuff, but using the veteran more in periods and just when i feel for it :) Think I will be using the datsun alot in the summers tho ! :) Have some minor problems with the volvo also atm, missing some boost, so bought a turbo boost pressure gauge and hooked it up to moniture it a bit, and the boost really isn't reliable... very up and down on how much it charge, but will order a new TCV (Turbo Control Valve) and change that, pretty sure it will be better with that, but if it's not all good after this I will have to do some more troubleshooting... Anyways so this is what's happened lately :) and therefore not to much progress on the datsun either, but it will come ! :) (Sending the rolla for a new EU control in this or next month I think, so it keeps being road legal, so if it passes, or can without to much work I might keep it and fix it up alittle when I got time :) ) 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 2x original ignition breaker points arrived in mail last week. So can adjust the ignition correctly now :) Also picked up more parts from a guy who was selling all his datsun stuff after importing a nissan skyline RD30, (the only one in Norway!! Maybe in europe to ?) He had 3x 510's and 3 more in parts 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 29, 2017 Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 YOu have sigle or dual pointdistributors? if single point you might be able to convert to a Pertronix electrnic ignition conversion 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 YOu have sigle or dual pointdistributors? if single point you might be able to convert to a Pertronix electrnic ignition conversion Single (y) I did look into the Pertronix electric ign. A while back (think you mentioned it earlier) must have forgotten it abit now, but will definetily look into it later ! Think I remember that it should fit my dizzy (y) Thanks for the reminder :) 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 Yes it a Pertronix 1741 should fit fit. Most Pertronix around here is about 80 Dollars US. 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted March 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 Nice, I'll use one of the points i bought fist to see that everything is as it should be before mounting a pertronix so I don't have to wonder if it's the tronix or something else if it's not going as it should after conversion :) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 maybe someone has a used Pertronix thay can send you Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted March 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 Yeah, maybe... But think I'll just order a new one from ebay, it's 90 ish us dollars included shipping :) saw that I'we actually clicked "watch" on one for a while ago Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted April 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 Got some time in the garage saturday on the day Used a good hour just to clean up the garage ^_^ then throwed out all the junk that had been laying in the car for storage for a long time. got it sorted and stored away lots of parts on the barn and threw away all of the garbage :) Also removed all 4 doors And stored them safely Parts to the datsun stored together with the stuff I picked up last week L18, it's stuck. brought it with me cause it just occupied space for the guy I bought it from, but when I've got time I will take a look at it 2x radiators, actually surprised how big they were in contrast of the one that sits in the datsun and rolla and lots of other useful extra parts :) Used some time on all the parts carrying so that was all I got time for before leaving on a party on saturday. And a small update from today :) Much nicer temp. outside and in the garage lately so that helps alot :thumbup: The winter have been really weird up here this year... were out on thursday taking some pics of my friends cars, and have been passing that spot were we took photos when I've been to work the last couple days so had to take some before and after pics just to give you guys an example on how much it have changed from day to day :) So... Thursday: Friday: Sunday: But more and more days with good temperature now, so that's nice :thumbup: Anyways.. Got a little done this afternoon after work. Started with vaccuming the floors in the car, were alot of grinding remains and stuff, good to just get rid of it... Continued on the rust behind left rear wheel arch. Think I get a little fixated on small details when welding, cause I actually did some long headscratching how to weld this together again like the opposite side, even though no one's gonna see the spot at all :lol: Using alot of time on small and easy welds to try to make it nicer and nicer, but think at least that helps alittle when I need to weld like on the middle of the door f.eg. later :) Still practising, but looks better and better at least :) will try to finish that part of the wheel arch tomorrow after work again :) (am going to cut away more, just have to leave some for reference point) 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted April 3, 2017 Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 If I didn't live in washington I would think those weather pictures are staged. But I've seen 90 degrees turn to rain and hail in a matter of an hour before. Shit, rain hail sun and snow all in one day even. Climate zones are weird sometimes 1 Quote Link to comment
tekkjosen Posted April 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Yeah and usually up here I live, if I'm on the field with a snowmobile and jump off, the snow reaches often up to the hips. But this year I think it was enough snow like 2-3 days that we could use the snowmobile at home without being to close to the ground. It's been bare spots on the field most of the year. And when the temp. Drops a bit it feels a hell of a lot colder IMO without the snow around 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.