Transmission won't mate

[DatsSully]

So I've been struggling for a couple days now trying to get this trans in but it just doesn't want to. I thought it might be the pilot bushing so I sanded that down a little as well as the end input shaft a little bit, it helped a little but it's still about half an inch from the engine. I used an alignment tool to do the clutch and I know the splines are together because I can turn the engine and the shaft moves with it and I had it at about the same angle as the engine(I have the front hoisted up and I used 2 floor jacks to angle the trans). I really don't feel like taking it out a 5th time and grinding more because it might not even be the issue but I can't tell what is. Pics

 

 

 

Anyone have any guesses? This is my first time doing this and I've been doing it by myself so it's pretty fun to say the least.

[datzenmike]

Did you replace the pilot bushing? I recommend you do this any time a clutch is changed, they are after all, only $3 or so. You were there last... did you look into the pilot bushing? Could there be something in there? I've broken a new one from jamming the nose of the spline into one, they are quite soft.

 

There are two hollow alignment dowels on the engine that the transmission must 'align' with for it to slip in the last 1/2". Could the mating hole(s) on the transmission be blocked? Or the dowel(s) damaged?

[DatsSully]

I replaced the bushing and cleaned out the hole so I don't think anything is blocking it there besides maybe the bushing itself. There's one hollow dowel and a solid one but it hasn't reached them yet.

 

My friend brought up that it might be the pressure plate hitting the bellhousing(I got this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/301666565003?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)but I can't see far enough into the trans to tell. I guess I'll have to go take it all out again and check it all out.

[Draker]

It might be a bitch, but you could just pull the engine and the tranny, mate them up then drop them both in at the same time. Sometimes fucking with it over and over takes longer than just removing the engine too.

 

I just went through this last weekend. I was having a tough time doing it solo. I like to get the bolts threaded. Put the tranny in gear and either turn the crank or, turn the output shaft until you can feel the splines lock. Then tighten the bolts a bit more until they mate. No need to force it though.. 

[datzenmike]

I just checked and this is an automatic to a standard transmission swap and I think I know what the problem might be. Two things...

 

1/ Automatics had a small plate that mounts over the end of the crankshaft and aligns the center of the torque converter when it is bolted up to the flex plate. This cover MUST be removed before mounting the flywheel. 

[DatsSully]

The car was an l18 auto originally but this engine is an l20b from a local guy, pretty sure it was from a car he raced so it was most likely mated to a manual. 

 

@Draker Did you just have the engine on the ground? I tried this on a wood frame I made for the engine but couldn't get the leverage on the engine to get the trans in.

[datzenmike]

Well there is one other way to get it mated but you mustn't use force.

 

Line up as well as possible and insert the mounting bolts. If they don't reach buy longer ones. Install them on each side and snug them up a little on each side. Go back and forth side to side evenly and draw the transmission onto the engine. Naturally if the bolts tighten and nothing moves you have to stop, but if they tighten in without forcing them little by little it should be ok. At some point remove the longer bolts and fit the proper length ones.

 

I've done this on a Fiat diesel and a GMC dual axle truck. The transmissions were so heavy and awkward they couldn't be pushed and wrestled into full mated position.

[DatsSully]

I had a couple bolts that happened to be the same size thread and longer and got one side started, looks like that's probably going to work. I just need to pick up a couple slightly longer ones for the other side tomorrow, thanks Mike.

[datzenmike]

This will work as long as there is nothing wrong really. You'll know if the bolts tighten up and nothing is moving.

[MicroMachinery]

Question: Is this a trans swap? If so, there might be 2 dowels on the engine and trans trying to occupy the same hole. Just a thought.

[kelowg]

if tightening bolts draws them together,great. but once trans and motor r tight together, loosen bolts and see if trans and motor push themselves apart. if so, looks like u have wrong length t/o collar.

[bananahamuck]

If it was me i would take the slave cylinder OFF  and remove those two re-enforcement brackets so you have more wiggle room up and down .. 

 

and put them on ,,, after trans is bolted up.

 

So I've been struggling for a couple days now trying to get this trans in but it just doesn't want to. I thought it might be the pilot bushing so I s

 

 

 

 

 

Anyone have any guesses? This is my first time doing this and I've been doing it by myself so it's pretty fun to say the least.

[banzai510(hainz)]

do as mention remove slave cylinder and if sure splines lined up should go it.

 

I see you got a 510 clutch in there and this is a l20 motor so assume its a 200mm flywheel.

only other is the t/o bearing collar length.

 

I never buy off brand clutch kits anymore.

Nissan or Exedy

 

also could be wrong T/ O bearing in kit

 

 

photos would be nice

 

 

Mike I dont think the flywheel will go on if the auto adapter on back of crank

[Draker]

The car was an l18 auto originally but this engine is an l20b from a local guy, pretty sure it was from a car he raced so it was most likely mated to a manual. 

 

@Draker Did you just have the engine on the ground? I tried this on a wood frame I made for the engine but couldn't get the leverage on the engine to get the trans in.

 

 

No, I actually used the method that Mike described above. Used longer bolts and used the driveshaft to move the splines until they were locked in. Then tightened them up and I was good to go. It took a long time.. but I got it. My problem was my longer bolts would bottom out because they were threaded only about half way. Derp.. took me a bit to figure out why it would start so easy... but I couldn't quite close the gap all the way. Thats when I switched out the long bolts for the originals one by one and got it to mate up.

[DatsSully]

Getting the longer bolts to thread it in worked. What I didn't realize is the mounting holes on the housing are about twice as thick as the automatic's so that explained why the bolts only stuck out about a 1/4" so I have a mix of class 8.8 and original bolts on there until I can get the right ones. I also found that the driver's side bracket doesn't line up with any of the trans holes and the trans doesn't have threads on the lower holes like the auto so I just put longer bolts and nuts to secure them. Everything still spins so it should work fine, hooking all the wires and shit up now.

[datzenmike]

Hainz is bang on. $80 for a clutch assy is asking for problems. Nissan ones for this are over $120 15 years ago and does not include the bearing. 

 

Open the bleeder on the slave to release any trapped pressure... doubtful but just in case.

[DatsSully]

I'm going to learn to drive manual on it so I was going for cheap since I'll probably beat it up doing so and have to replace it anyway, no sense in wasting what little money I have on 2 nice clutches.

[Draker]

I've had good luck with 'Luk' clutches.

 

I've now installed 3 of them, and they have all been great! It was recommended to me by a tech that previously ran a clutch specialty shop. Paid $65 from RockAuto for the last one I installed.

 

Of course, OEM or Exedy (OEM supplier to Nissan) are great too! These were only $80 from Rockauto I believe.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Did you have the clutch apart? I've seen people put the disc in backwards before, but then the disc hits the flywheel bolts.

 

It's probably the wrong throw out bearing sleeve.

[datzenmike]

Maybe the disc make but all the discs I've seen were impossible to put on backwards. The PP bolts wouldn't be long enough.

[banzai510(hainz)]

LUK clutches? If say made in Japan its most likely fine

 

just buy the Exedy oe Nissan stuff or made in Japan.  Im sure some other are fine also.  I had Asco(now Asin) fine also

[KoHeartsGPA]

I'm on the "take slave off" boat, I didn't even have to wrestle mine in, I was under the car with tranny on my chest, lifted, pushed, in. Simple.