oil qustion? just became due for a service.

[btd19m]

im running this

 

 

 

 

have put pure metho in the fuel seems to be running super smooth. 

 

 

same as my 1977 ss and one of my Toyota's (70 something  model) 

 

is that all okay to run in the 720?

 

also bought fuel today. replaced filter (full of muck and a bit of water again. (didn't fill up from at home. think the 98 might be bad)

 

went from stopped to 110 in about 20-25 seconds gear's 1-5 no problems. 

 

 

only have Valvoline Synthetic Transmission Fluid SAE 50   (will this be okay? ive not done a transmission oil change since i bought the car and it had one 10k ago) 

 

 

its just hit 423,000 and i do oils every 10,000 in all my cars. unsure about the transmission oil. i have a few other oils sitting for other things (dual fuel oils for my f150, the diesel oils for my lux and tractor oil also have a drum of harvester oil and 2 drums of hydraulic fluid also have one of the classic oils for a fj47 in mint cond. (20-60 or something.)

 

 

 

tranny oil was run from new till about 3 weeks ago when i replaced it. (over 400,000km)

 

i need the spark plug gap as well and need to know the spark plug lead config. as the plugs are about 105,000km old. leads are well over 300,000 old (1989 leads)

[datzenmike]

I use Shell 15W40 Rotella T but Chevron Delo 400 is close to the same. Here the oil makers have been reducing the ZDDP levels because it clogs the new catalytic converters and all new engines use roller cams and don't need as much scuff protection. They assure us that the level is sufficient protection for older flat tappet cams but it's easier to just change to a light diesel oil that still has a higher level.

 

Transmission oil should be changed every 30K miles 50,000Km and with GL4 rated oil. Never GL-5.

 

Always use NGK plugs and wires if possible. An '80 L18 is off the charts here. Probably the same as our L20B engines with the EI distributor high output.

[btd19m]

I use Shell 15W40 Rotella T but Chevron Delo 400 is close to the same. Here the oil makers have been reducing the ZDDP levels because it clogs the new catalytic converters and all new engines use roller cams and don't need as much scuff protection. They assure us that the level is sufficient protection for older flat tappet cams but it's easier to just change to a light diesel oil that still has a higher level.

 

Transmission oil should be changed every 30K miles 50,000Km and with GL4 rated oil. Never GL-5.

 

Always use NGK plugs and wires if possible. An '80 L18 is off the charts here. Probably the same as our L20B engines with the EI distributor high output.

81 L18. i need help with vins though. the vin is not comming up as a valid number 

[KoHeartsGPA]

Use a pint of Lucas oil stabilizer in every oil change.

[banzai510(hainz)]

your fine. dont over engineer this.

[HRH]

20w50 is too thick for a standard motor unless it's completely clapped out and the rings suck.  There's no reason to use it.  40 weight is as high as you need go.  Beyond that, rebuild the motor.

 

OR, if it's a race motor and your engine builder specs 20w50 because it runs hot, then by all means use it.  I'm thinking more Dodge 360 when I say that.  I run 15w40 diesel oil in all my L motors.  Runs great, no issues.  The newer Frontier truck KADE gets 5w30 or 10w30.  It has smaller journals, doesn't like heavier than 30 weight.  Just sucks mileage.

[DIY 1985]

So Diesel oil is legit on the catalytic converter?  I just did a change with Castrol synthetic 10W-40 for the summer?  It claims to be low in phosphorous.   I have a slight rear and front main oil seal leak, cylinder 2 has oil intrusion.  I want the oil to be gentle on the non-metal engine parts, but my daily driver is a mountain bike, and I haven't put 2,000 miles on the Z24 in the last 14 months.  Gonna hit 200,000 soon.  My oil blot test was surprisingly clearer than the oil in the catch pan from last fall.  My last fill-up revealed a 20 combined highway/city mph, and I am no longer running rich since I hooked up the right jets using an air fuel ratio gauge.

[datzenmike]

I would imagine that the diesel ZDDP levels are similar to what was in the oils sold when your truck was new... 33 years ago. If you need the cat to pass emissions I would check on this but it's really since engines started using roller rockers and lifters and the latest cats that ZDDP started being reduced.

[racerx]

Which diesel oil?

[datzenmike]

Well I run 15w40 Shell Rotella T (but I think that's been changed to T4 now) and you may also be able to get it in 10W30 too.There is T5 and T6 but it's hard core synthetic. Chevron Delo 400 is about the same and just about any oil marked R or racing. Not a fan of synthetics and not sure it contains the correct amount of ZDDP. It may protect or it may not. You don't need a synthetic in a Datsun engine anyway.

 

I encourage everyone to Google the ZDDP controversy and be informed for yourselves. The oil made today has only about half the amount of ZDDP as 40 years ago. Every year it is lessened and being fazed out.

[demo243]

Valvoline vr1 racing oil is available in a 10w30 and has a higher level of zddp. It's harder to get in Cali at a store but summit and Amazon have it.

[xxmass]

Amazon will deliver the Shell oil that is recommended by the braintrust that we have here at ratsun net.

[datzenmike]

Valvoline vr1 racing oil is available in a 10w30 and has a higher level of zddp. It's harder to get in Cali at a store but summit and Amazon have it.

 

Yes. The old levels of ZDDP are not compatible with today's catalytic converters so it's being fazed out. All engines made today are roller rocker and also don't need as much scuff protection. Our engines DO.