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Weber carb install


Johnboyee

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first off, I have used the search function!! Didn't help with what I'm having trouble with, does anybody have and good pics of an 82 with a weber installed, the problem I'm having is with the throttle cable connecting it to the carb, I have the mount on the head side of the carb but it won't open throttle to wide open! Just lookin for some good pics of setups or any other useful info!

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Take a pair of big pliers, bend the old throttle bracket then where it mounts with the two bolts, move it down so the top hole on the bracket is on the bottom bolt. I'll go out and take a picture soon, it sits up against the carb but works perfect.

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Take the linkage off the stock carb and install it on the Weber.  I am guessing you have a DGEV  32/36 or a 38.  Do as Rhino said.  No need to buy parts.

 

Also connect a light throttle return spring.

 

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86%20King%20Cab%20Throttle%20Return%20Br

 

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86%20King%20Cab%20Throttle%20Return%20Sp

 

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I got the factory mount working, needs a little tweaking but it works, I like the return spring idea. I realized after the fact (I cut the lead end off cable) that I could use factory linkage. It's running but won't idle and runs rough, already replaced plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, wires, both coils still have spark, I read either they work or they don't do they should be ok, should i get a new distributor? Or what other electrical problems might I look for? I have the E choke hooked up the the factory blue wire that went to factory carb, is this correct? After running it for a bit the choke seemed quite hot to the touch.

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Quit buying parts and replacing.  Post some pictures and some information about the Weber.  You most likely have a vacuum leak.  Get some starting fluid and lightly spray around the base and any other possible vacuum leak areas.

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I got really busy so I apologize for not posting up a picture, Charlie's setup is nicer than mine haha but here it is

 

IMG_20150822_192705609_zpsvniqyecz.jpg

 

Don't mind the electrical tape, I also keep forgetting electrical connectors...

 

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Charlie69, I haven't bought any parts I didn't need, I swapped motors in this truck since original was locked up!

 

Rhino13, that's exactly the way I was thinking you meant, and I'm running mine the same way for now, one day I'll make a new bracket myself that holds the cable with less angle of attack on it, but now I'm having idle issues, it won't idle, I checked for vacuum leaks around base and any other possibilities, but haven't found any, I've even adjusted the idle screw in both directions in and out about 3-4 turns with very little effect, right now I have sdjusted slight tension on throttle cable to keep it running at idle, time to do more research !

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You have an idle screw and a mixture screw. Do you have your vacuum advance from your distributor hooked into the Weber? You can pretty much delete all other vacuum lines to make chances of leaks less and to take out unnecessary things. Is the carb brand new? Make sure you get all the bolts tightened down enough to not have a vacuum leak through the base. If the carb isn't new it could be a variety of things.

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Ok... New carb 32/36 DGEV, vacuum delete has been done, yes vacuum advance is connected to dizzy, everything else except vacuum to brake booster is capped off, checked base adapter plates by spraying carb cleaner with no change in rpm. According to paper work I was adjusting slow idle screw and not mixture screw. Choke is connected to stock blue choke wire

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Because I had electric choke issues with my new weber [that the guys solved] I check my choke with a cheap 12v light. One to ground other to choke connection.Also none of my adjustments worked because I had a huge vaccum leak.I'am curious about your booster brake vaccum connection.I have limited experience,but those vaccum leaks now have my complete attention...

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Middle man, yea my brake booster vacuum line is the last suspect on vac lines, but I also have one to transmission since it's an automatic, the brakes where redone before I purchased the truck, but it is original booster too, plus it's has cruise control which adds extra crap, might end up removing that.

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  • 7 years later...
On 8/24/2015 at 11:36 AM, Johnboyee said:

Middle man, yea my brake booster vacuum line is the last suspect on vac lines, but I also have one to transmission since it's an automatic, the brakes where redone before I purchased the truck, but it is original booster too, plus it's has cruise control which adds extra crap, might end up removing that.

I would like to buy your truck for parts if that ever comes.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Small increase in performance as it's a larger carburetor. You do loose some advantages of the Hitachi though. Usually the Hitachi needs rebuilding or cleaning or problems with understanding and trouble shooting it so easier to just go Weber. 

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On 3/2/2023 at 2:22 PM, None_zero said:

I wonder... it seems like pretty much everybody who owns one of these trucks puts a weber carburetor on it. What's the benefit? How is the webber superior or different from the oem carb?

The weber DGEV 32/36 is a simple carb compared to the stock Hitachi.  I bought my 86 720 Z4 5 speed in 2010.  Talked the guy down from $2500 to $900 because the truck ran terrible he was sure it had a bad engine.  Drove it 75 miles to my temp home and ordered a new Weber from Pierce Manifolds for it, installed the Weber and I am still driving it today as a daily driver.  I drove it home from Battle Mountain Nevada to Tolleson AZ towing a tandem axle Uhaul trailer full of Datsu/Nissan truck parts

Edited by Charlie69
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