btd19m Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 keep getting water in the factory carb. sick of it. even putting sealant all over it doesn't fix it. no rain today. dew point was an hour after. and the motor is still semi warm. also can i use a holly? im used to the holly's and have a few spares and boxes of parts. just dont really want to have to learn a Weber when my other cars all run holly's. if not what Weber for the 105HP l18? (5 speed) and anyone had problems with the idle screw. mine is jammed. cant loosen it. im worried about snapping the screw off if its seized. and being stuck at 1200rpm idle is not good for the car. the mix is off as well i think. timing is fine. its on the factory mark still Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Probably have water in your gas tank. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Ya, water just doesn't magically get in, it's either gas with water or condensation.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 keep getting water in the factory carb. sick of it. even putting sealant all over it doesn't fix it. no rain today. dew point was an hour after. and the motor is still semi warm. also can i use a holly? im used to the holly's and have a few spares and boxes of parts. just dont really want to have to learn a Weber when my other cars all run holly's. if not what Weber for the 105HP l18? (5 speed) and anyone had problems with the idle screw. mine is jammed. cant loosen it. im worried about snapping the screw off if its seized. and being stuck at 1200rpm idle is not good for the car. the mix is off as well i think. timing is fine. its on the factory mark still A Holly isn't going to keep water out of your gas. Or are you leaving the carb uncovered in the rain???? To reduce normal condensation in the fuel tank, keep it as full as possible and park indoors away from extreme temperature changes. If you store gas on your station make sure the tank is sealed tightly. Add 100ml of gas line antifreeze with every top up of fuel. It cheaper to buy a liter of Methly Hydrate from the paint dept. at WallMart. Alcohol is hydroscopic and will also mix with gas so it will absorb water and flow through the carb and be burned before it can gather in any amount. Idle screw.... lefty loosey... righty tighty. 2 Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 still stuck. temped to just hit it with the rattle gun. wd40 and grease do nothing :( whats the suggested Weber carb? i know it was 32/36 or something from memory. im starting to think my carb is shot. it melted the two wires off it to the fuel pump or what ever it is again today. just got it running again and the rpms are back at 1230-1270 idle nearly put me through the wall. stupid question datzenmike. its dripped fuel from the exaust system for a great many years now. any idea what could be up with it? the old owner cant remember it not doing it. the puddles burn as well so that's not water, it always does it too. even after a 280km round trip it still drips. lately its started shuddering on the freeway. the car wont go past 80km/h when just 10 minutes before it was doing 110km/h the shudder is so bad i normally have to pull over and wait a few for it to come good again. sometimes disconnecting the battery fixed it other times just stoping the motor and starting it did. oil is good. im doing oil changes every 10,000. its clean and still like new after 10,000 my front t bars are wound out thanks to one of your posts here. was fun luckly we had a hoist handy for the cattle float so i just did it there and then. my frount shocks are factory my rear are air shocks. at 80 psi at the moment they get set to 130psi towing 1.2 ton (1200kg) its on 98 (2% etho 98% pet) would 95 run any better? or 90? ive never run 90 in any car. what are your thoughts on fuel treatments? its had one run in it for about 10 years now (since they removed lead based fuels and such) Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 weber carbs are 700$???? wtf.....there just on 230$ us there 690+ here in au Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Dripped fuel from the exhaust? You mean from the tail pipe? Condensation dripping is normal. Shuddering is likely the rubber idolator around the carrier bearing. It's doughnut shaped and will rot away and the driveshaft becomes unstable. You might look at the U joints as well. If the steering wheel is almost jumping out of your hands then it's the front end. The ball joints and specially the idler arm are shot. The shimmy is AKA 'the shudder of death'. Fuel treatments are for those who believe that they work. Your 720 was designed (8.4 compression) to run on low octane no lead gas. Read the glove box driver's handbook for suggested gas usage. 2 Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Thanks. Heaps Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 told ya already the fuel hose. If it was raining then its the fuel hose. water runs down the tube. Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 if you mean the fill point. mines almost brand new. tank is clean. filter is not picking up any water and theres no water in the fuel before it enters the carb. no idea what its problem is and its still dripping fuel. and yes the puddles burn. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 If it's running that rich... your moments away from spinning a rod bearing. I'm sure your oil will burn too! If you don't want to run a weber (32/36), buy a rebuild kit and fix the carb you have. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 well the guy who own my 521 said everythime it rain hes fuel gauge would act like there was moroe gas in the fuel tank. So he found the clamp or hose loose and since the hose was in the wheelwell the water would run down the hose into the tank then rust also thus pluggn the idle jet in the carb. I heard of hot water choke Webers aalso but rarely seen them on here. Otherwise I dont know how water would get in the carb besides the tank Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 i know there is a slight gap between carb/motor. also the car is doing some water crossings from time to time and towing a firefighting trailer for backburning. might be getting in under the carb. its the stock one. also the air filter doesn't fit right and the air intake is not an intake (blocking the intake on the filter housing does nothing) (L18) Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 That old term "put away wet" comes to mind. It originally meant riding a horse hard and then stabling it while still sweaty, but the old farm tractors had similar results. Farm tractors had issues with condensation in the fuel tank because after a long hard day of running at full RPM, the fuel tank, which was normally right above or in front of the engine, would collect condensation. They even make a fuel additive for diesels for this reason. It's a long shot, but it could be condensation. Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 My 720 is an l18 dual cab If it's running that rich... your moments away from spinning a rod bearing. I'm sure your oil will burn too! If you don't want to run a weber (32/36), buy a rebuild kit and fix the carb you have. I would be running a Webber if I could but at nearly 700 dollars for the carby alone plus the kit on top of that it's not worthwhile for now. Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 That old term "put away wet" comes to mind. It originally meant riding a horse hard and then stabling it while still sweaty, but the old farm tractors had similar results. Farm tractors had issues with condensation in the fuel tank because after a long hard day of running at full RPM, the fuel tank, which was normally right above or in front of the engine, would collect condensation. They even make a fuel additive for diesels for this reason. It's a long shot, but it could be condensation. I've got two 70s and a 64 tractor that have that problem and an fj47 Toyota that has as well..we have had some very hash days (105f high 2 days ago) it's due for the filter again. (37km this filter) plus the alt is dead and the housing is warped. 1 Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Dripped fuel from the exhaust? You mean from the tail pipe? Condensation dripping is normal. Shuddering is likely the rubber idolator around the carrier bearing. It's doughnut shaped and will rot away and the driveshaft becomes unstable. You might look at the U joints as well. If the steering wheel is almost jumping out of your hands then it's the front end. The ball joints and specially the idler arm are shot. The shimmy is AKA 'the shudder of death'. Fuel treatments are for those who believe that they work. Your 720 was designed (8.4 compression) to run on low octane no lead gas. Read the glove box driver's handbook for suggested gas usage. My l18 720 started life on leaded fuel. Old owner ran a valve saver for the last 10 years and for a motor pushing 420000km no rebuild no anything more then filters and liquids she's still going well. It made 103hp on the dyno (105hp is stock) Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Coming back from Melbourne to burringbar (1700km) it didn't stop dripping the entire way (23 hour drive with stops) Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Buy it from a US dealer and ship it over. http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-36-DGV-PROGRESSIVE-CARB-GENUINE-WEBER-CARBURETOR-WITH-MANUAL-CHOKE-22680-005-/120888282350?hash=item1c2580ccee&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Buy it from a US dealer and ship it over. http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-36-DGV-PROGRESSIVE-CARB-GENUINE-WEBER-CARBURETOR-WITH-MANUAL-CHOKE-22680-005-/120888282350?hash=item1c2580ccee&vxp=mtr "this seller does not ship to Australia" Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 "this seller does not ship to Australia" Well....they don't ship to Canada either. There are other sellers.......found this in about 2 min. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Weber-32-36-DGV-Manual-Choke-conversion-kit-fits-Datsun-510-610-620-Pickup-/271280922121?hash=item3f299a5e09&vxp=mtr#shpCntId Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 If you have water in your gas, yes it (water) will drip out the tail pipe. It's mostly water vapor condensed in the cooler exhaust. If you ford rivers and you have a hole in the exhaust pipe or muffler, water will get in and it will take some time to 'boil off' from the hot exhaust gasses. ALL cars drip out the tail pipe at some time or other. Of course it smells like gas. If it was pure gas dripping you would be running so rich the exhaust pipe and plugs would be BLACK and a black cloud would be following you, it would run like shit and you would be getting 12 miles per gallon.(Imperial) Also... You say 6K miles per oil change. You wouldn't be getting clean oil if you were running that rich. Try my suggestions for reducing water condensation in storage containers or your tank and add methyl hydrate to absorb any that does get in. Gas line anti freeze is the same thing. Try it ($3.65 a liter) and I bet you don't see the dripping. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Find another, they are out there, do the work... Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 A Holly isn't going to keep water out of your gas. Or are you leaving the carb uncovered in the rain???? To reduce normal condensation in the fuel tank, keep it as full as possible and park indoors away from extreme temperature changes. If you store gas on your station make sure the tank is sealed tightly. Add 100ml of gas line antifreeze with every top up of fuel. It cheaper to buy a liter of Methly Hydrate from the paint dept. at WallMart. Alcohol is hydroscopic and will also mix with gas so it will absorb water and flow through the carb and be burned before it can gather in any amount. Idle screw.... lefty loosey... righty tighty. cant get it to come lose. it wont turn at all. just stuck at 1230-1270rpm http://www.recochem.com.au/index.php/products/industrial_products/alcohols_non_ethanol/item/methanol will this work? id be buying 1000l for 1.01$ per L. theres aprox 1500L of 95 and maybe 2000L of 98 diesel is at maybe 300L been doing a lot of cattle runs back to back so its way down. we have 9 cars 3 trailers 2 trucks (light trucks) plus the 6x6 and a 600cc quad. plus the 4 tractors and the old harvester. Buy it from a US dealer and ship it over. http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-36-DGV-PROGRESSIVE-CARB-GENUINE-WEBER-CARBURETOR-WITH-MANUAL-CHOKE-22680-005-/120888282350?hash=item1c2580ccee&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=weber%2032%2F36&ssPageName=GSTLshipping is the killer. as far as ive seen anything under 400 they will admit its a copy first message/call its 77 aud to usd last i saw. plus the goverment is trying to make retailers online up prices 500%+ in some cases to force local trade to cover there mistakes plus removal of the carbon tax Quote Link to comment
btd19m Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 77c to 1 usd. Quote Link to comment
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