toyota 4 ac single cam....fuel in oil after revving to 4000 rpm

[81sunnyson]

ok so while i take a break from the datsun, i tinker on the old corolla

 

4ac with 5speed

 

car sat for ten years with gas from when bush was president

 

i got the car bout a year ago

 

only ran on brake cleaner

 

took to a shop to blow compressed air in gas tank

 

fuel was so caustic it smelled like varnish with jack daniels

 

s got it to run finally only to have a fuel in oil issue...super rich fumes, and dumped so much raw gas into converter it glowed

 

not sure if seals on valves went bad, another guy saying bad rings, but if i drive the car over 50mph, fuel gets in the oil

 

tracking down this problem is hard other than the fuel pump itself which i replaced  3 times, also new filter cuz paper dissolved in old one

 

mechanical fuel pump supposedly has oil seal

 

is the caustic fuel eating the diaphram inside the pump?

bad valve seats or lash?

 

timing belt and sprockets line up, although hard to start cold

 

no real drivability issues until i drive on hwy.

 

drive for like a week and it will have a quart of fuel in the oil, lol

 

worst case i will pull the motor for a good spare i have but want to learn something or resolve this motor issue

 

have carb and head to spare also if that would alleviate

 

need old timer to chime in

[banzai510(hainz)]

manual fuel pump the diaphram has a crack sucking gas in . Thats would be my first guess.

[81sunnyson]

doesnt seem to burn oil....although it smokes but fuel fills up the pan

 

havent done a compression test or re-lash

 

rings idk.....i would know since the datsun has bad rings and was a quart a day drinker

 

valve guides or seals i would suspect just from sitting ten years with old fluids....clutch master would just randomly leak also

[81sunnyson]

fuel pump lasts a week or so if i get on hwy....motor flush

 

change the oil, then warranty out the pump

 

oil dilutes then starts missing real bad.....idle mixture and vacuum off but no stalling

 

bad gas is out the tank by now

[shacks510]

I don't think bad valve seals would let fuel in the oil. You'd be burning oil before fuel was able to get up through the seal. I say bad rings. Put your hand over the breather tube on the block (I'm guessing the 4AC has one) and feel how much air is coming out. Does it smell like gas? Bad fuel pump diaphragm sounds likely too.

[bananahamuck]

If the gas is that bad it is defiitely not completely burning ,, so there is so much unburned gas in cylinder that it is washing past rings..

 

I don't understand why the "shop" blew compressed air into tank??  Why would you/ they not just take tank off and dump old shit gas out and do the obvious,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and just ,,,,,,,,,,,put new gas in???

 

And lastly,,  how many times have you changed the oil since trying to get this running??

[banzai510(hainz)]

fuel pump lasts a week or so if i get on hwy????

 

this mean you put a new fuel pump on there? then if still doing it highly unlikely the pump again

[Lockleaf]

I think he says he has replaced the fuel pump 3 times...

[datzenmike]

Carb could be flooding. Drips into intake after shut off and finds way past the rings then or when starting. Probably hard to start and runs like shit on every start up till it clears. A couple of teaspoonfuls of gas every start up soon adds up to a quart in the oil pan. After shut off take the air filter off and take a look... see gas dripping? Is there a window on the front of the carb? any way to check the float level? Needle valve stuck or something stuck in the needle valve that it won't close all the way?b

 

If pump was replaced then not pump

[81sunnyson]

eye burning fumes under hood and under car.....would idle and smell like mikes hard lemonade and boones farm with a spritz of pinesol

 

the breather gave me trouble when i put an orielly's mini filter on it. ran way worse and would make hard to start

 

yes it is a pain to start even with starter fluid, even at operating temp (new battery)   alt is charging 

 

took air cleaner off entirely, which had a hose going to carb and pcv

 

if i put my finger on the pcv hose end, idle drops

 

no blowby really

 

carb has a tiny float bowl but its way out of tune. mixtures are jacked and it has all kinds of linkages and vacuums,...

 

good thing is that i doesnt stall, does fine on street, at light,  but  idles 1200 rpm without air cleaner .... until the dilution starts

i want to just switch it with a spare i have or pull motor altogether n replace with known good runner from wreckd parts car

 

gas light would come on constantly after getting on hwy, ....read the manual and it mentioned 02 reset

 

so there is a weird o2 sensor reset button under the dash by brake pedal...have already replaced 02 but may try that again

 

i reset that switch then also the emissions computer and canister from good runner ( idk desperate to see if makes a difference)

 

now no smoke or fumes or dilution but i havent hit the hwy yet

[81sunnyson]

huge wasp nest under head light...they like fumes i guess

 

well i got the car to the shop and it would only run on brake fluid and a jump start box,  so  a mechanic suggested blowing air into gas tank to clear lines i guess

 

ran under its own power/ fuel source

 

should have drained tank instead of trying top burn bad gas out

 

guess i hurt the motor 

 

compression is pretty even on all four ....150 psi or around 11.5 to 12 kg/cms

 

plugs arent oily

 

havent checked timing cuz distributor bolt stripped but pulled timing cover...belt ok, cam n gear dots aligned

 

revvs hard like two a15s  combined and doesnt miss until 4000rpm on hwy/ dilution

 

sounds like its boosted at that point....vroom, bpp,bpp,bpp,bpp,bpp then dies

 

sit on shoulder for 30 minutes til it turns over then limp home with intermittent stalling

[81sunnyson]

i would drive ten miles a day

 

then oil change ever week for the dilution

 

at the time datsun was down so only option 

[datzenmike]

manual fuel pump the diaphram has a crack sucking gas in . Thats would be my first guess.

 

If always replacing the pump there's something wrong here.

[81sunnyson]

ok in vain trying to fix fuel issue

 

switch to spare carb from junkyard from motor they said ran

 

before i checked lash i pulled valve cover and it was just gas in the head
i soaked up as much as i could...free motor flush

cam and rocker were dry, some scratches on lobes

i ran it for a second with valve cover off to see if gas was shooting out fuel pump but oil came up so fast and sprayed everywhere

im used to ohv datsuns where i can lash with no valve cover cuz oil takes a second to flow out rockers

oil pressure was up immediately as opposed to before oil pressure only after revving...low idle oil pressure with other carb which concerned me. some people saying lifters. i was worried oil pump bad, but guess so diluted

i can let idle long time, no dilution...also had harness and emission computer unplugged...idk if that affects floats/ vacuum etc
but if i rev over 3000, something in carb is wrong

before too much gas
now too little

 

drove down hill and revved to 4000 rpm

gas didnt dilute right away but only drove down street 5 min. usually after 20 mins it acts up with original carb.

 

started easy and pulled hard but it stalled out by time i hit 5th gear.  popped hood.  float glass empty so i primed carb with a lil gas from filter
got home and quit for the day

at this point i want to remove all emission parts n computer, go aftermarket carb to rule out that part of system so i can focus on mechanical pump or gas tank

[81sunnyson]

vacuum secondary